Thank you, that's helpful. I've double checked the reversing switch LC and RC and they are clean of debris and making good solid contact. I guessing if my pop solenoid is reliably firing and neither cancel circuits are firing then both the coils are shot. Interestingly (and maybe this doesn't apply ...

I have the manual and have read the operation overviews and specific sections to my problems. It is no substitute for experience. According to the manual the pop solenoid is not shown in the cancel circuit diagram. Because the pop solenoid does fire as it enters play. No cancel.

Thanks Ron. I took the SA block springs out and reformed them with the needle nose. They had good tension again and I moved on to aligning the SA block. The skipping of selections was definitely the SA block alignment that caused it to not stop on selections. After trying 4-5 times with various impr...

I removed the selector contact block and I have a question... Looking at the manual pg 2151 I can't tell if the back of the contact is always supposed to be in contact with the switch. My contacts are all permanently touching the switch (manual calls it a spring?). Is this correct? I would have assu...

That's good to hear. I took the top off the popularity dials and took a look. The dials were a little sticky so I exercised them until they moved freely and also adjusted the rubber roller and stop pins according to the manual. It seems like the shaft had shifted and it was "making" with 2...

I don't think the popularity meter has ever worked correctly in this machine. The dials never move. If the popularity solenoids go out, what affect would that have aside from rendering the pop meter useless? I'm going to pull the mech out and realign the SA contact block. I did have that out to clea...

The clicking is the popularity/lamp mechanism.

Double checked the W contacts are clean and shiny, gapped in play and firmly closed in scan. Only getting some Odds and no evens.

Here is a video of this problem. Of the 10 or so selections I've entered, it will only stop at D5 (not D6) and J9. No evens but also skips some odds. http://youtu.be/HO_1ce-9jyA Thanks for any help. *Edit: just now seeing Rons response above, will check the W. I saw in the service manual it was poss...

Since I've moved past rebuilding the amp and receiver, I figured I would start a new thread. Today I removed the clutch and cleaned it with degreaser and applied SAE20 to all lubrication points on the mech. I also had removed the rack and pinbank to get to the clutch. After reinstalling the clutch a...

I also used the Dayton (came in my FridayNightJukebox Kit) and some industrial velcro I had lying around. I just snipped the entire lead off the original cap and soldered them on.

IMO, given that good styli are again available for the original redhead, that might be best for home use. It will balance w/out mods and you will get both channels -just in mono. Rob Rob that's good info on the retrofit but great news that the original redheads output both channels in mono. I had i...

3) Change the tonearm to a newer type. The best choice here will be the later type as used in SS160 -end, There are a lot of these around from parted mechs. It is necessary to cut off the tail piece on the "new arm and cut down the existing counterweights to balance the new arm. this will give...

I have an adjustable temp Weller station and I used some wire wrap to add the other jumper, but it was impossible to get it back in the adapter case without snapping a lead. Too much glue residue! The 60hz hum is very minimal on the amp in play position, running, and the RCA removed. The hiss is muc...

I was able to take apart the adapter. I'm not familiar with the pinout, but shouldn't I be able to bridge both + leads and both - leads to convert this down to mono?