Okay, diagrams as requested. Note that my juke is the first LaserStar model (CD-100) and uses crossover #61038801 (later CD100 models may use a different crossover). This device installs onto J1 of the crossover board, meaning that, should the need arise, the original connection to J1 can be restore...

Just occurred to me to round this thread off with a few photos of how I solved the power-on thump. The solution, which is powered via the service outlet, is non-intrusive and easily bypassed, if necessary. It puts a dummy load across the amp until the 5 second delay timer switches in the speakers. N...

After a 3 week shipping wait, the timer relay arrived from Hong Kong but ... not the voltage I ordered! Sent me 220V instead of 110V.

Sender was most apologetic and has sent me the right one. Another 3 week wait I guess.

Nice little unit though. Can make use of the 220V version elsewhere.

Doors re-foamed. Crud vacuumed out. All snug now.

The plug headers sit below the case of the CCC so I guess I'll need to pull them with needle nose pliers. My concern is that the 25+ year old plastic may be brittle.

I haven't opened up my CCC as yet. Bit concerned about breaking those plugs in the attempt.

I note that the later model CD100A service manual states "750mAh 3V (#40788901) OR 160mAh 3V (#30873101)", so that may the changeover you mention.

According to my service manual's parts list, the CCC backup battery is given as Lithium 750mAh 3V (#40788901) 750mAh is a quite a high capacity battery. Just wondering if that's a typo, or did Rowe in fact originally install 750mAh batteries? Googling around I note that many recommend CR2032 (220mAh...

Good to know. Thanks again.

Thanks. Goof Off is available here.

Not sure if my CCC (#40832201) is also packed with foam?

Just noticed that the foam rubber seals on the CD100's upper and lower doors are starting to deteriorate. (Woofer surrounds look to be okay.) The seals appear to have been fitted over a glue base, rather than being adhesive-backed strips. What's the best product for removing the old glue under the f...

MattTech wrote:If in doubt, a 200 ohm 10 watt load can be connected permanently across the output - before the relay - to slightly load and absorb any sudden loading issues - it will not affect speaker loading, power, or sound.

Thanks for the tip.

But seriously, some do offer "protection" of speakers by sensing any unusual "DC" voltage potential along the speaker lines, and opening the connection via the relay. And as you are well aware of, this can happen if the amplifier suffers a fault of some component, causing the DC...

I summarized its functionality above, although I didn't make clear that, as well as providing speaker protection, it delays speaker connection by 5 seconds, thus eliminating on-thump. (I have the associated magazine article.)

It can be powered from 20 to 70 volts DC, configured by 2 resistors.

Yeah, I had the same thought after sleeping on it. The mute affects the input, whereas the thump is a function of the power amp output stage. Am thinking of using this 135 watt per channel kit which also protects speakers against DC and can optionally monitor heat sink temperature and can also suppr...

Okay, now that I've found my service manual, and familiarized myself with the CD100's innards, I figure that "de-thumping" via the existing mute function is the easiest way to go. I'm thinking of using the service outlet to power a delay relay that mutes the amp by default until 5 seconds ...