Rowe R74 Jukebox Rebuild

I feel a bit stupid, to be honest, was wondering why the damn thing went into an endless cycle of picking up and replacing the same record again and again.

in my previous post I attached a photo (I hope you can see it) with what I believe to be exactly what you are describing as the "Lift Lever"

The lift lever is the piece with one end laying on the shelf where the reject and total play meter is

Flip it over toward the rear.

This has noting to do with "playing over and over" -that is a separate problem and we'll need more info.

Rob

Latest update as of tonight

Did slide the lift arm back and although I can see where it might allow the record arm to travel further it doesn't appear to have any other function (Electrically speaking), Took a snapshot of my detached wires and where I believe they go off of the record playing arm, anybody know to which contact each one corresponds and what their function is ?

Attaching photo to post.

Kindest Regards
Tony

Tony, that situation is what I mentioned earlier as the wires often do disconnect. That is one channel of the pickup.

Since only one side is disconnected it is easy to determine how that should be connected. There will be only two lugs with solder but no wires. So, tack on temporarily either wire to either terminal lug. play a record. If you have no bass, shut it down and reverse the two wires and connect them more permanently. You'll now have full stereo and better sound.

Rowe requires that the cart be wired out of phase so that the bass speakers can be connected as mono and across both channels.

BTW: That pivot bearing looks bone dry.

Rob

Thank you.

And yes agreed, will be getting the oil tomorrow.

Good Evening Gentleman.

Based on the info provided (both Relays are interchangeable) swapped them, have confirmed the red relay (turntable relay) works perfectly on the amp (Amp relay position) it assumes its task perfectly both in muting and providing a slow volume beginning for songs, I can therefor only assume both relays are working perfectly, although I still have to fiddle quite a bit with the turntable Relay both to make it spin the record carousel and spin the record player.

I am assuming this means either a stuck gear somewhere that needs to be "wiggled" back into functionality or a bad socket connector for the relay on the turntable?

I am happy to inform after applying the recommended oil to the turntable shaft it is working much, Much better.

would like to address this issue with wiggling of relays before looking into the button record select mechanism (which appears to do nothing) as always any and all advice is appreciated.

Did contact the recommended source for motor and gearbox kits and am in the process of determining exactly what I need, over the weekend I intend to take the motor and gearbox assembly apart and thoroughly clean with soapy water as per your recommendations.

"swappin'" relays does not necessarily prove that they are both good--it will prove them both bad, if, in fact, they are--

Morning Ron, I am afraid I am not quite following, this is the logic I followed

After being explained what the yellow relay does (mute and volume slow increase at the beginning of a record) which it does perfectly every time I deemed it as GOOD

Put the red one in its place and confirmed it performs perfectly with no wiggling both in MUTE functionality and slow volume increase at the beginning of a record which would seem to indicate it is also GOOD

When installing the yellow relay (Which we have deemed as GOOD) in the turntable mechanism I still have to wiggle and fiddle and move around before the turntable will spin or the disc carrousel will spin this is what lads me to believe either the wiring going to the Relay connector socket is faulty or the socket itself ?


thoughts ?

Tony, I suspect the chattering relay problem is in the socket -possibly the crimp connections or just tarnished-bent lugs.

There might be something else involved here though and one way to determine this is to place the relay in the socket and see if it is "pulled-in" that is the coil is energized- or not. Then see if rocking it causes it to chatter..

Here is where it gets tricky. In the Rowe mechs I'm familiar with that relay only pulls-in when changing to, or from handling-play mode. That may not still be the case on this model. Faults earlier in the circuit might cause that relay to either stay powered or not stay powered and rocking it to briefly to change that status may get the mech just past that fault and let it resume normal operation. This is one of those things that is easy to show, but cumbersome to explain.

if you manually push out a pin on the search unit (pin memory) and manually trip the scan mechanism (lift up the white gear) does the magazine turn and go to and stop at that pin and then pull that record (or try to if no record)?

The processes of writing-in to the memory and the mech scanning-playing are actually two independent operations with only scan initiation and the power supply being common to both.

Rob/NYC

Tony,
The construction of those relays says that 8 "contact points" must be closed at all times. If a set of contacts will pass full current, they will work in any socket-however, if they will only pass a marginal amount of current, they MAY work in one socket just fine, but will fail in another socket, due to current draw. Also, some sockets do not use "all" contacts, therefore, if you insert a relay with a "bad" set, into that non wired socket, it will not have any effect on the operation of the jukebox. If the relay sockets are the brown/black colored hard plastic type, they seem to be very reliable. If they are the white nylon type, they often fail. To clean either type, I suggest using DeoxIT 5 on the RELAY "pins", and "working" the relay in/out of the socket, several times. HTH, Ron Rich

I understand your explanation Ron and I think at this point ensuring there is no possible problems with the relays is at the top of my list if you could verify you have a couple of these in stock (new if possible) I will make arrangement for payment and shipping next week with you.

Thanks.

Tony

Tony,
Yes-I have them--please PM me--
Ron Rich

Evening Ron (And the rest of the group)

While awaiting Delivery on my new Relays I decided to make myself useful and work on repairing the two broken wires to the turntable arm, in order to do the best job possible I once removed the entire turntable system out of the jukebox case and took it to my workbench so I would have good light, upon inspecting however I found hidden inside of the mechanism a Third relay (FACEPALM).

This new Relay however similar to the other two has ROWE and AMI written all over it, can someone confirm this is in fact identical and interchangeable with the other two ? and if so Could you (Ron) ship me a third one. as soon as I get confirmation I will submit payment for the third.

Please see attached photos

Short video detailing where we stand on the project with a short video of a good old Elvis record playing "ALMOST" Perfectly. (YES I am aware the record player arm doesn't go back and the record isn't put away in the carousel yet but it is sill Leaps n Bounds form where we started.

http://youtu.be/X5pFRFzlddg

THANK YOU TO everyone for your help so far.. exciting stuff

Finding it almost impossible to strip the black and red wires leading out from the record player arm and soldered into the 7 pin socket connector that leads to the amp, either these wires are more delicate than anything I've ever seen or they are dry rotted, every time I try to strip them they just breaks again... I am down to nubs

Grrrrrr.....

Thinking I need to replace both shielded cables all the way up to the needle assembly, these are black and red cables enclosed with a metal ground shielding, they obviously need to be durable and yet flexible enough to allow for the movements involved in the operation of the record player arm, any ideas where I can get something that will be adequate ?

Thanks