Phonoland

Eddie,
I believe you have hit the nail on the head--I knew it did not "look" write, er, rite,--no, correct, just could not tell why ( I kept thinking it was hooked to the wrong place, OUTSIDE, the idler wheel, but I do not have one here, to look at)--also, I still think that the spring is too large (big?) ?? Ron Rich

Victory Glass sells repo idler wheels and spring. Get both. It'll never run correct speed until you do. I have worked on so many Rock Ola's that looked like they should work, but still ran slow that I just replace them and save myself time and trouble.
Watch out on the new idler, I got a couple that I had to open up the hole to spin freely on shaft. A drop of oil on shaft and clean I.D. of t.t. and put a drop of oil on t.t. bearing.
I don't seem to have nearly the trouble with the AMI idler wheels, different compound I guess

Robert,
It seems that the RO is more "finicky" then the AMi's--but my problem with them is always the grommets, and/or someone has "compromised' the spring. If pressure is added, by either cutting the spring, or installing a wrong one, I find that the motor shaft wears out Ron Rich

For anyone that followed this tread, since I started it, here's the conclusion of it :

(Thank you Eddie for the image you posted. Actually the spring was connected to the right place on my machine but the picture here will explain by itself what was the issue. I have to buy E clips).

As you may see on the picture, the idler wheel pivot was an issue. The mechanism was stuck. I only had to oil it. Then the idler wheel made contact with the motor shaft as that thing was able to move.

I changed the motor as the original one had been broken. I understand that I have to change the tension spring and probably the idler wheel, I'm on it ! I was able to play discs ... at the wrong speed but it is a start !

Try cleaning the rubber on the idler wheel with a "safety solvent" ,and also the contact area on the turntable. What condition are the motor supports in--often, if bad, these will cause a slow running situation. The idler wheel can be re-surfaced--see list of persons above who do that--
Ron Rich

Hi Ron and all, I did clean the idler wheel rubber and I'm still dabbling with a spring I bought at the hardware store (Victoria Glass is on vacation at the moment, I would prefer obviously the right spring).

I am successful playing a record at 45 rpm now, I have 45 rpm (I even calculated it) but the music if going in and out of key every few seconds. From what I see the idler wheel movement on the motor shaft is not perfectly constant, I believe it is the cause of the out of key sounds. I can see the idler wheel and pivot, the whole mechanism, "jumps", due to the fact that the wheel is imperfect.

Any other clue or comment ? I'm thinking buying a reproduction Idler wheel (or just the rubber) and spring. Thanks !

My advise would be to wait till you have the correct spring, as the hardware store spring may damage a new idler wheel--
As for a re-pro wheel vs. a rebuilt one--no difference, IMHO, if both are "done right"-- Ron Rich

I will replace both the wheel rubber and spring for sure. Am I right thinking that the "out of key" fluctuating sound most likely comes from having a tired wheel rubber and the wrong spring ? Is this a common-classic thing ? For me all this is new let me tell you !

Thank you for all the inputs since that start of my tread,
Jean

Jon_Mtl wrote:I will replace both the wheel rubber and spring for sure. Am I right thinking that the "out of key" fluctuating sound most likely comes from having a tired wheel rubber and the wrong spring ? Is this a common-classic thing ? For me all this is new let me tell you !

Thank you for all the inputs since that start of my tread,
Jean

In order to perform correctly, the idler wheel must be in perfect concentric shape, and the spring causes the idler to press with only an ounce or so of pressure against the motor/turntable rim.
Just enough force to have reliable "traction" - when gently pressing a finger against the spinning turntable it should have a slight "slowdown" and regain speed immediately when the finger is removed.
Of course the platter bearings need to be in good shape and lubricated, as is the motor.

It's elementary.

Spring looks like it's still hooked up wrong in the picture to me..... In the picture, there is a lot of distance in between the roller and the shaft and the spring has zero tension on it. Post another pic since you oiled the pivot. The object is not to pull the roller against the platter, it is to wedge the roller between the motor shaft and platter, putting equal pressure on both. When this is correct it is hard for the motor to slip.

Hi Eddie, the pivot is now unblocked and the wheel does contact the motor shaft. But I would prefer to wait for a new spring before posting a new pic, I know I will have comments on using the wrong spring Unless you insist !

With the wrong spring attached, I get a irritating fluctuating sound but the platter still gives a 45 rpm. From all the comments, it looks like the cause is the idler wheel/rubber and the spring. I'll change both and will post here when done.

I was a little surprise to find only little information on that very problem on the web. The wrong speed is common, but fluctuating a little less. I would think it happens often when uses have the rubber or spring worn out.

Jon,
The spring is never "worn out" !! If "bad", it is always because "someone messed with it " --
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Jon,
The spring is never "worn out" !! If "bad", it is always because "someone messed with it " --
Ron Rich

That's right Ron.
And if the idler drive surface is glazed, hard, dimpled, or out-of-round even a tiny bit, this causes "flutter" in the music.
The idler arm MUST be virtually motionless as the unit is running, not swaying or bobbing any as the idler turns.