Phonoland

I am hooking up a wall box consolette to my LPC1. I have 10 wire 22 gauge, but have been told I should use 18 guage. Have googled everything I can think of and can't locate the wire. Any suggestions on a vendor where I can buy this wire?

Typo - the wire I have is 24 gauge - also, the length I need is 30 feet

Greenmeadow,
Couple of things here--
1. Please go into your profile and at least list the country that you live in --my answer at the moment would be "China", as most of our manufactured product seems to come from their today--
2. You can "edit" your post at any time--just open it up, and click on the "edit button" on the upper right side--no need to post another whole post--
Now--some questions about your wallbox/LPC units--
1. Which model wallbox do you have ?
2. Which model LPC-1 do you have ?
3. Do you want to use "all features" of the wallbox?
Ron Rich

"greenmeadow" 24ga is too small, especially for that length.

A consolette requires at minimum 7 wires of which the two main AC should be 20ga or greater.

AC=2 wires

Speakers=3 wires but due to 32 ohms impedance these could be 24ga if necessary.

Audio control= 1 wire any convenient gauge.

Signal= 1 wire any convenient gauge.

If you are not using the speakers only 3 wires are needed if you power the coin sw internally.

In the Consolettes I have on-location I powered the coin switch (use quarter only) directly from the AC line via a 10 ohm (5W) resistor and 1/2 amp fuse.

For new work I used 2- 20ga/4 (stranded)cables into each box. One cable has the AC, and signal, the other cable has the speakers and audio control. That totals 7 wires and I just pair the extra in the AC cable with the chassis ground.

Rowe/AMI issued 22ga/12 wire cable for their speaker boxes and this is what I have on 2 loc's where is was pre-existing. I've never felt that this was adequate and the drop when the boxes are sending is steep, but they have worked for decades so...

Rob/NYC

A multi core cable with the two larger cores was also expensive, when we used to site jukebox we would use a figure 8 heavy duty speaker wire (of at least 1.5mm eqivalent but prefered 2.5mm) and then used a small size for the signal/data lines.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

After looking around for a while, I found where to enter info in my Profile. I live in the western part of MA. Yes, sadly most manufactured goods are no longer made in the USA. But, if you look around a bit, you can find some. Recently bought pots and pans from Pennsylvania and shoes from Texas. And, I never set foot in WalMart!

Back to Jukeboxes:
1) My wallbox is an SC1 (have two, but installing only one at this time).
2) I didn't know there was more than one LPC1 model. I only knew that some were dark wood and others were "blonde".
3) My LPC1 has no income totalizer, so that function is not needed.

Rob - Interesting approach. I have not yet started to hunt for 20ga 4 strand wire. Any suggestion on where to look before I start?

Alan - I have seen a sample of the original Seeburg wire with the two larger cores. I made the assumption that it would not be available today. In trying to "translate" 2.5mm to AWG, my chart says 10 ga. Seems like overkill, so I must be misunderstanding something. Also, what smaller ga did you use for the remainder of the wire?

I think I need to make something clear. I am not a juke box hobbiest. I am a '50s and '60s music hobbiest (college class of 1963). I simply enjoy listening to this music on a jukebox - it just seems to "fit". I can oil the LPC where needed, change the stylus, and I can take out the amp and stepper, but rely on someone else with expertise to Dx any issues with them. I don't replace caps and resistors, etc. I do have manuals and actually was able Dx a fuse blowing problem with the help of the manual. But, the bottom line is that I am happy that there are people around who can get into the details and help those of us who enjoy them, by keeping these treasures running.

Bill Jones

Bill,
Real simple, if you don't care about the speaker function--
Purchase some "regular" 3 wire (16/3) AC cord. Use the green for signal ( blue connection on the WOM) black and white for power.
That's all you need--but you will need to jumper the coin switch wires internally in the WOM from the white--thru a resistor ( Rob suggested a 10 ohm--I prefer a 12 ohm, 10 watt) along with the fuse, IF, it is not already installed ( later production runs added a 6/10 amp fuse). If you want to add "always on" audio, add 3 - 22 ga. wires to the speaker terminals--if you want 'controlled audio" one more 22 ga. wire is needed to the audio control terminal (violet).
Ron Rich

Bill, the wire I used was bought from Peach State Dist (1800-727-3224) back in 1998. The stock # 29-6216. At that time it was $17c/ft for 100ft reel or 14c/ft for 500ft reel. I had two locations building and ordered 5 -500ft reels. It was used for speakers (70v lines) and wallboxes.

As for speaker connections in the amp, the original connections provide a 1W tap to each spk in the box. I prefer to connect them to the 4watt tap -this feeds 2W due to the speakers being 32ohm/ea. The amps in those machines took typical liberties with wattage ratings. At best you'll get about 50% (12w.channel total-to-load) with both channels drawing current.

Ron, I tested the 5w/10 ohm resistors using 1/5 amp-slo on the boxes and they blow before the resistors break a sweat. I did finally use 10W from radio Shack when I ran out of the others.

In Sept 1986 I bought a system of an HLPC and 11 Consolettes right out of a diner in Jersey City. The coin switches were directly connected to the AC line....Typical.

Rob

Rob,
You should be fine using the 5 watt for an individual WOM--I was thinking of what Seeburg did when they eliminated the totalizer in the PFEA-1U models---they added the resistor into the phono, but that was for 6 WOM's--
I have seen many coin coils powered by the 25 vac--very few ever burned --- Ron Rich