Rowe 1100 Mech Adjustment Help..

If you are sure that the microswitch is being properly timed and actuated the nest step is to test the motor.

This is easy enough. Start a changing cycle after loosening one spade lug on the motor. While it is turning touch the lug on and off and observe if the rotor is popping back instantly -or not.

A drop of light oil on the shaft that the rotor slides back on may help. If replacement is indicated, it would avoid second hand motors off the 'net and get yours rebuilt, or replaced by the original maker: multiProducts. https://www.multiproducts.com/

When you remove the motor there is a "spec" # stamped on it, that is what you need to order a new one.

Rob

Hi, it sounds like the micro switch might be just a tiny bit out of adjustment or intermittent malfunction. , anyway here are the micro switch numbers and what they do, ( No1, magazine motor interlock during record transfer.) (No2. Turntable motor) (No3. Record transfer cycle, stops record transfer at mag,) (No4. Operates toggle shift solenoid.) (No5. operates reset solenoid.) (No6. Holding circuit for cancel button.) (No7. Stops record transfer cycle over turntable.) (No8. Operates reset solenoid.)

Rob-NYC wrote:This is easy enough. Start a changing cycle after loosening one spade lug on the motor. While it is turning touch the lug on and off and observe if the rotor is popping back instantly -or not.

Will try this tonight, and let you know!

Good to know that that manufacturer is still in business. I've heard of them before and wasn't aware they were the ones that made Rowe's motors.

djricksha wrote:Hi, it sounds like the micro switch might be just a tiny bit out of adjustment or intermittent malfunction. , anyway here are the micro switch numbers and what they do

The switch is adjusted as per the manual, at least. Now, if I move it in (read: actuates earlier, deactivates later) that MAY fix it, but I won't be able to tell for sure until I try it.

I've put my fingers on the cam (to feel it's rotation) and when this happens, it's clear that the came is still moving and slowing down - as opposed to a short 'stop'. Depending on the momentum of the transmission and such there, even adjusting the switch in may not correct it if the cam just keeps rolling down.

All that needs to be done is PROPER oiling ! The lack of proper lubrication is the cause of what you believe to be a "magnetized" motor.
One drop of 20 wt. ND oil on each end of the motor armature shaft , will stop this problem for a few days/weeks. "Saturating" the very large felt pads on the motor will cure it for years ! Do NOT get oil on the armature itself, or you will find it "all over" your records--
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:All that needs to be done is PROPER oiling ! The lack of proper lubrication is the cause of what you believe to be a "magnetized" motor.
One drop of 20 wt. ND oil on each end of the motor armature shaft , will stop this problem for a few days/weeks. "Saturating" the very large felt pads on the motor will cure it for years ! Do NOT get oil on the armature itself, or you will find it "all over" your records--
Ron Rich

Hmm. This may be cause, then. I cleaned the motor and transmission in a supersonic cleaner, dried it all off, and then never re-oiled it.

And yeah - I'm probably not being generous enough on the oil overall, as I'm - admittedly - a little scared about getting oil on the records.

Update (finally! Sorry!) wanted to get your opinion on whether this is an 'oil' fix, or something more 'dire'..

Did the test that Rob suggested (engaging motor, and using the terminal to start / stop motor) -

In an average of 10 times -
About 5 times, the armature popped out perfectly.
About 3 times, the armature would pop out, but rattle/vibrate. (Making a loud 'whhhirirr!' sound as it spun down.)
About 2 times, the armature would not pop out until the gears came to a complete stop. (Which then the armature would pop out.)

I did it for about 3 sets of 10, and those numbers are averaged out over the 30 tries.

Have NOT oiled yet - will do so but the rattling kinda worries me (i.e. Something ELSE is worn, and no amount of oil would fix?)

--Mike

Mike,
OIL IT !! You MAY be doing damage by "testing" it !!
If you are afraid of getting oil on the records--build a cardboard or plastic shield, and fit it between the motor and the records--
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Mike,
OIL IT !! You MAY be doing damage by "testing" it !!
If you are afraid of getting oil on the records--build a cardboard or plastic shield, and fit it between the motor and the records--
Ron Rich

Allright, on it tonight once I get home!

This may sound like an echo chamber but I agree w/Ron -OIL IT! that "razz" or whirl sound is typical of what you hear when these motors are bone dry.

Rob

Hey guys -
Okay -
The mech was oiled, and runs a lot better. (Smoother, quieter.)

On the plus side - no more 'rolling' past the switches to immediately cancel a record. The gear pops out immediately, like it should.

On the minus side - I may have damaged it, running it dry. No surprise, but.. Once every 30 records or so, it will still do the 'whirring' as it disengages. I can take it back off and coat it with more, if you think that will help - however, I pretty much loaded it down the first time. (Unless, for example, you think there's a hard-to-see place that I may have missed.

(And, as an aside, I will say that getting it back together, in the lift/push rod, if a friggin' PITA..! )


Thanks guys!

That sound is somewhat normal for a dry motor--did you saturate BOTH felts with 20 wt ??
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:That sound is somewhat normal for a dry motor--did you saturate BOTH felts with 20 wt ??
Ron Rich

I believe I did. However, tonight I'll drop it again and do close inspection, see how it looks.

Played about 75 records over the weekend while working on lighting, and played perfectly fine. Noticed something more with the Amp, but not too worried since I decided that I'll have it sent off for rebuilt.

foxtrotxray wrote:

Ron Rich wrote:That sound is somewhat normal for a dry motor--did you saturate BOTH felts with 20 wt ??
Ron Rich

I believe I did. However, tonight I'll drop it again and do close inspection, see how it looks.

Played about 75 records over the weekend while working on lighting, and played perfectly fine. Noticed something more with the Amp, but not too worried since I decided that I'll have it sent off for rebuilt.

Nevertheless, operating those amps in an "unsure" or questionable condition can lead to fried transformers, cooked-to-death tubes, etc.
And if Solid State, the same applies.
You've never seen the mess and destruction from a blown capacitor before, have you?

True - and I have! Just not in a Juke. (EM Pin? Check. Video game? Check! And, oddly.. one on a PC Motherboard. Small sucker, but got gunk *everywhere*.)

The odd issue isn't at a 'red' threat level yet, which is good, since my 'amusement' account is too low for me to send the amp out right now. I'll likely have to live with it until October, unfortunately. (Money is only an issue THIS month, as I had to pay for my Playfield to get shipped back to me. Next month I'll be gone for most of it on a business trip. Too many projects, too little time..!)