Phonoland

Just got done installing my cap kit, hooked everything back up and it works but it seems like its lacking the bass it had before. I adjusted the input levels the best I could and I had to adjust the amps and volts as noted in the manual but that really didn't do too much. The mids are a bit more than before and the treble is better and overall it's much clearer but it just lacks the big bass it had before.

I didn't change the big metal can cap that sticks out from the amp though. Everytime I tried to heat it up, the heat would dissapate too fast to melt the old solder.

Before the cap kit it didn't sound as clear as it does now but it did sound richer with bass.

I saw a youtube video where I guy did a cap replacement and changed a few caps to I think bigger values to up the bass response, but I'm not sure which ones or what the values were.

Any thoughts anyone?

So I changed out the C44 2000MFD cap with the supplied one in my cap kit and no change. So in my infinite wisdom I decided to follow what one person did and up the capacitence in the output stage, but in my hast I hooked up the transformer wire to the wrong spot and now the right sound bank doesn't get the proper voltage. This is of course after I replaced the blown fuses. What was supposed to be a simple R2 of caps has ended up in a debacle of hatred towards this amp.

Now I think I might have to send this off to an expert. Suggestions?

I contacted Juke Doc of Ohio and am going to try and drop it off with them to get the amp repaired by an expert. I did replace the .25a fuses and one sound bank works but the other just keeps blowing that .25a fuse. Plus now it has tremendous hum no matter what and the turn on thump is much more as well. Definatley toasted soemthing. I just wish I could be there to learn who they fix it so I know more about it and can do it on my own in the future.

On a lighter note I did get everything else working 99%. I even got a cash door replacement. Now I just need a cash bag and to replace the dollar bill validator. The one in there's rubber belts and motors have crapped out. Other than that it's all just old bar and usage patina.

When you take you amp in, why don't you take the DBV in also--I'll bet my bippie, that ol'Enos can fixked it too !
Please tell him I said "Hi"-- Ron Rich

Ahh.....
Like most electronics, jukes are not for the amateur to mess with.

Ron Rich wrote:When you take you amp in, why don't you take the DBV in also--I'll bet my bippie, that ol'Enos can fixked it too !
Please tell him I said "Hi"-- Ron Rich

Good call Ron, I've been so frustrated with that amp and now trying to fix my R2D2's center foot, I just didn't even think of that. I will tell him you said "Hi".

Curtis

MattTech wrote:Ahh.....
Like most electronics, jukes are not for the amateur to mess with.

I wouldn't say that, how else are you supposed to learn if you don't try? I've repaired many electronics over the years, with the most recent being arcade's to inlcude the CRT chassis and wiring, but those too can stump me. I don't have a professional test bench. Just an old fold-out table with a lamp, soldering iron and multi-meter. Along with that, even though I went through electronics training in the military to repair down to the circuit level, I never really got to do that as much as I liked and for the past 8yrs I've been sitting in front of a screen analyzing squiggles, dots and funny lines. So please excuse me for being an amatuer.

Hi All,
Strictly, IMHO, I have no problems with DIY'ers, or "amateurs" IF, they have a skill level that allows them to "do no harm".
When I was young, I would try anything, as I have aged, I find it more practical to hire a pro, for most jobs.
I am willing to help anyone with their problems, so long as they will at least read, and make an attempt, to understand the service manual. In some cases, the manuals assume that the reader understands certain things, and they do not even mention them. I also quit "helping" at the point where the person no longer follows the procedure I lay out. I lay this out, as it is how my mind trouble shoots, and if not followed, I can go no further---Ron Rich

Indeed, Ron, there are specific "procedures" that are imperative, and need to be followed for a successful repair.
In my line of work I know of no viable "shortcuts" to specific repairing - some things just HAVE to be done "by the book".
This, along with having the knowledge and expertise insures success.
Anything else is a waste of time.

Ron Rich wrote:Hi All,
Strictly, IMHO, I have no problems with DIY'ers, or "amateurs" IF, they have a skill level that allows them to "do no harm".
When I was young, I would try anything, as I have aged, I find it more practical to hire a pro, for most jobs.
I am willing to help anyone with their problems, so long as they will at least read, and make an attempt, to understand the service manual. In some cases, the manuals assume that the reader understands certain things, and they do not even mention them. I also quit "helping" at the point where the person no longer follows the procedure I lay out. I lay this out, as it is how my mind trouble shoots, and if not followed, I can go no further---Ron Rich

I agree with your statement as I know first hand there are times when I can only do so much before I need to have a professional take a look. I for one wouldn't even delve into my stereo amps, first they have a real warranty (5yr transferable) and they have plenty of caps and circuitry that ensure they produce the rated power all channels driven, so I wouldn't want to even want to look at them with a screw driver in my hand. I can also understand the concept of doing it right and understanding the circuit layout and what things do in order to acheive the desired output. If this concept isn't followed, further damage can occur and that negates the whole purpose.

I apprecaite your help, as you have helped me on here before, and can appreciate where you are coming from.

MattTech wrote:Indeed, Ron, there are specific "procedures" that are imperative, and need to be followed for a successful repair.
In my line of work I know of no viable "shortcuts" to specific repairing - some things just HAVE to be done "by the book".
This, along with having the knowledge and expertise insures success.
Anything else is a waste of time.

I agree that in certain circumstances there is no short cuts and things have to be accomplished in a certain order, otherwise more problems will occur. When I worked on avionic systems, if you didn't troubleshoot a circuit correctly, the potential to fry other parts was increased let alone damage to aircraft parts if you were wiring something on the plane. On the bench if you used the signal gen, power supplies or other various test equipement, you could no only damage the $100K+ part you were working on but also damage that $5K piece of test equipment. Spectrum analyzers, o-scopes and wave generators don't come cheap. This would end up with your butt in a sling as well.

So I know what you mean when things have to be done by the book and that's all I have to say on this subject.


On a another note, I dropped off the amp and dollar bill validator at Juke Doc of Ohio this evening. They were kind enough to stay a little late so I could leave my place right after I got off work and make it up there around 1730. So with any luck they will be able to dig into it and let me know what's wrong and/or have it fixed fairly quickly.

They had a few nice restores sitting in the front awaiting customers to pick up but they gentleman was telling me that they have called the owners of the stuff we were looking at and they just haven't responded. It sad to see some nice equipment just sitting there because the owners don't want to pick their stuff up. He said one juke that was sitting there had been there for like 30 days. Sad.