Seeburg HF100G freeplay/coin problem

Since I got my 100G I have not been able to switch it from free play to coin, so I got a free play adapter and it did not solve anything, when switched to coin it still does free plays. has anyone else had this issue or know how to solve the issue? Thank you for any help anyone can give me

Moose,
The answer to this depends on, if an idiot, or a smart guy done made it "free play" in the first place.
If an idiot did it, he bent the cancel ramp out of the way. If a smart guy did it, he added a jumper--somewhere--
You will need to get out the service manual and figure out what was done--if the ramp was bent, I strongly advise you to send the CCU to someone with "lotsa speriance" with them, 'cause if not aligned "perfectly", the ramp WILL snap off the rotary credit switches--maybe not for days--months, or even years--but it WILL--sooner or later--(contact me off list, if you wish-I can do it)
The best thing you did was to purchase the FPA--be SURE to use it, to prevent a fire in the ES--free play or coin play--
Ron Rich

I guess this is an amendment to the freeplay/coin problem, I still have that problem but I have discovered 2 other problems one is why I have to press both letter and number at the same time, the answer became obvious once i dug deeper (someone took out the latch solenoid, ive ordered one so that problem should be solved soon, the other is I recently bought a working 3w1 wallbox, hooked up everything in the wall box works great, press letter then number it runs through the whole cycle perfectly but then comes the problem nothing happens on the juke end, I then realized the 2050 tube was missing, got one and installed, now the transfer switch will fire when a selection is made but nothing else. I have been trying to learn all I can about the process but im stumped why nothing is happening. if anyone can offer any help or advice it would be awesome. thank you

Moose,
You are going to need to read the Service Manuals for both the Wall box, and Jukebox.OR-If you don't want to take the time, send the WSR to someone like me, who rebuilds them all the time. It's not hard--but there is a rather large "learning curve"---(Hint: check the WOM motor speed)
Ron Rich

Thank you Ron, I enjoy doing alot of this myself, helps me learn more about it, sometimes fustrates me but makes the finished product more worth while also easier to know when and what is wrong when an issue pops up. I have an update haha, while looking at the motors speed, it magically (just a term haha) started working and the mech finally selected a record, I had that holy ahhhhhhh thing going on when I saw it worked finally, but it played the wrong selection, which by the manual could still be a slow motor or dirty contacts on the selector switch banks or selector disc and of course could be all 3 or any combo. but for tonight im just happy that it worked finally so progress is being made. thank you again Ron, might still have to send you the WSR because the freeplay/coin problem is still baffling me. PM me if you dont mind discussing your rates with me.

"Moose" Here are few tips:

Credit unit: as Ron pointed out some dopes bend the cancel ramp, others though run a jumper from the center slip contact on the credit wheel to ground. See if that is the case here.
Stepper: The basics include cleaning the stepper wafer contacts and wipers of tarnish and -lightly- lubing them. A drop of oil on each stepper bearing and pawl too.

make sure that they will "home" easily from even just one, or two steps up. There are contacts that ride on a roller on top of the first stepper wheel (Letters). These must transfer during the second pulse that arrives. I set them so that the roller follows the wheel downward but puts no pressure on it, just stays lightly on to keep it in the groove.

There is a large 5mfd non-polarized capacitor that is critical to accurate operation of the stepper. This will need to be replaced. I make the value up with several mylar caps. You can also use electrolytic caps in back-to-back (AC) configuration, but as recent experience reminded me, they are often much higher in capacity than marked.

There is a 100 ohm resistor in the 2050 plate circuit. Often these are burned from wallbox contacts have shorted the signal line. I use 100 half-watt to act as a fuse and protect the stepper coils.

The 2050 requires a minus voltage of approx 28VDC to keep it in cut off except when a box pulses. Replace the small filter cap on that circuit and be sure the voltage is there before putting the tube in. Having a thyratron tube conduct before it's cathode is fully warmed up causes stripping of the thorium and wears it out sooner.

Wallboxes: Connect an ohmmeter from signal (blue wire) to chassis ground and slowly turn the pulse wiper noting the resistance on each rivet. jiggle, but don't press the buttons at each rivet and again note resistance. If it jumps more than a few hundred ohms there is a good chance it will give wrong selections due to dirty keyboard contacts. Whenever I place these back into commercial service I wash the whole box and we can go into that later if needed. When used regularly they tend to keep better contact.

Rob/NYC