Seeburg M100C

When i put a nickle in the credit plunger pops up and after making a selection the credit switch moves one turn and the little brass leaf goes down. Dimes 2 turns , quarters 4 turns. You are referring to the credit switch when you say rotating switch correct? I was referring to page 3 of this post
Satn

Hi Stan,
OK--if a nickle, dime and quarter all pull up a plunger, and you get the correct number of PUSHES, for each one, what is your question--or what's NOT happening ? As for the brown wire --I dono--would need to look at another one, which I do not have access to at the moment( by any chance, does it go to the "credit test switch" located right beside that plug ?) .
Yes-- the (rotating) credit switch. Ron Rich

OK, i got it all working again. After trying this and checking that and hitting it with a BFH it was still dead. Just for the heck of it it i lifted the reject lever that is just next to the tone arm and let the mechanism go through its cycle. It would then move the carriage to the next position and i would lift the lever again. Had to do this 12 times. Then it stopped. Now when i put money in or use the credit switch everything is fine and the scan switch is operating. Have no idea what i did to cause this problem but for know it is alive.
Stan

Hey! I got this bad boy working. Had a solenoid sticking on the contact block (frog). Thought i had cleaned both of them before but i must have missed it. So i went to lube it today. Couple of questions here. This thing has a Emerson motor in it. I see the tube to lower the bottom bearing but there is nothing at all on the top. Do i just put a few drops around the shaft and let it wick in? Almost the same question on the turntable bearing. i do not see any pace to lube these two bearings. No wick holes on the top at all. So do i do the same just apply a few drops on the shaft and hope it works in? I did read the Seeburg and Rons manual but they only so where to lube. I am pleasantly surprised on how clean the all the gears are. I think someone has been into it before. BTW I even went and bought 3 in 1 motor oil ( blue label) so no one would yell at me.

Stan,
Some Emerson motors have three oil holes up top, others just one, usually oriented where it can't be seen around the rear of the motor coupling. You will be yelled at only by the phono, if you use the wrong oil !

Got this guy up and running. Decided it was time to clean some records and install the new needles. It sounds like crap! I pulled them out and reinstalled them. One is worse then the other. I then put the old ones back in and it sounds OK . I did not play with any adjustments because i figured there could not be much difference in the new ones and the old as far as weight . I just measured them and there is only .1 gram difference! So my question is before i contact the seller (Needles 4 Jukeboxes) has any body else had a problem with these new ones? Here are a couple of pictures. Mine are on the bottom. Why do mine have little metal strips showing?
Stan Ski

Stan, clearly there is a difference in how these are made compared to the pic of the "original" repros shown on that site.

There is also this admonition:

Please read before purchasing
The new T needles track at 4 grams max, any more pressure and the needle will bottom out causing distorted sound and possibly damaging the stylus
The new generation of T needles have been redesigned for improved sound quality, reduced record wear and longer stylus life.
For them to work properly your tone arm springs must be set so as not to exert a tracking pressure exciding 4 grams
If your machine is set to track at 4 or more grams, and many are well over 5 grams, the stylus suspension will bottom out, causing distorted sound and very possibly ruining the stylus

So we have two questions:

Why do these look different than what was offered and are they from the same supplier?

And, what is the tracking force on your machine?

When I was using that cart I disabled the damping and used 3 gm tracking. the original Pickering styli were still available till 1991 and are a bit more rugged than any of the copy styli that were then available. the output was significantly higher too.

Rob/NYC

Stan, Rob, and all,
I believe the upper gray colored ones are the "new" repros. I have heard nothing but praise for them, but as of yet, have not tried them myself. The lower, light blue pair, is a un-matched set of genuine Pickering sapphire needles. My GUESS is that the tracking force has been "adjusted" too high ? If you do NOT have a Nueses gram gauge, try the following:
Insert a record, with a slight warp in in the playing position, watch the needle and adjust the spring so the record does not hit, or bottom, on the plastic portion of the needle assembly, as it passes the warp--also, remember, that if "someone messed with" needle pressure adjustments, they may have also "messed with" the counter balance adjustment ( and "God knows what else" ??) Ron Rich

Ron, Stan, something is "odd" here.

The photos for this styli appear to be very close to the original:

http://www.jukebox-world.de/en/Needles/ ... tereo.html
http://www.needles4jukeboxes.com/seeburg_needles.htm
http://www.thejukeboxman.com/shop/jukeb ... o-Redhead-
http://www.turntableneedles.com/SEEBURG ... _1340.html

These all look to be well made with a substantial cantilever and exposed pole pieces on the rear.

What Stan is showing looks rather crude and "home made" by comparison.

Can anyone explain this difference?

Rob

According to the seller the tracking force is incorrect and that is what is causing my problems. As far as checking/setting the tracking force do you guys think this would work?
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Extec ... AhG68P8HAQ
No i did not buy it. My son in law is getting it from where he works
Stan Ski

Yep, that should be fine...although we plebes use this: http://www.pkneuses.com/www.pkneuses.com/spri.htm -at a little under a tenth the price.

At the risk of starting another controversy, it might help to eliminate the damping so as to allow the arm to more quickly follow both large and small warps.

Rob

Got that fancy dancy measuring tool all set up. Had to do a little creative thinking on that. Notice the whole in the record! Did that so the tonearm would be in the correct playing position. Now the big question . How in the hell do you set these springs? I followed the manual step by step and just can,t get it dialed in. When i started both of the adjustment brackets slots were all the way up. So of course i had very high pressure. Something like 10 G on each side. So i played and played with the adjustments. Every time i will get a reading that is close on one side but way off on the other side and of course if i move one adjustment it throws everything off. Is there some kind of trick to this? They had to have an easier way to do this on the assembly line. Was also wondering if i should bend the little arm that the spring connects to? Just thinking that maybe some one else did bend them and that is causing my problem.
Rob, I Had one record in it that was pretty warped the arm followed it with out any problems. So for know i will leave that as it is. Had another thought. I read somewhere about getting lighter springs. Could this be the problem?
Stan Ski

Stan, flip the ears on the tonearm around so that they are down and try adjusting from there. You --slightly-- bed the lower hooks to lower the pressure.

In all but one case i replaced the springs with the later type used in SS160-up. I bent closed the hooks and this allowed long rectangular hooks on the newer springs to slide through the now closed loop.

Here are some piic's to illustrate:
http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=167 -Original springs stretched for 2gm tracking.

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=168 Later SS160 springs for the lighter tracking carts. However, even these must be slightly stretched for 2 gm if used in the older assembly.

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=169 Slight sag when stretched original springs are used. Note that the ears are swung outward and lower hook loops are bent closed to prevent spring hook from escaping.

It takes a bit of finesse to get these old assemblies to track lightly but once done it should not need revisiting. The above unit was removed years ago due to a broken terminal strip...I'll get around to it 'eventually".

Rob-NYC

Flipped the little adjustments today. Still way to much pressure. So i started to bend the lower hooks. After bending one side then the other and again not getting very good results i decided to get drastic. I bent the lower hooks straight up. At least this did drop the tracking weight. I now have 5 and 6 grams. Something is very strange here i would think that in this position the springs would have a little sag to them. They do not! Maybe someone thought that more pressure was better and put another set of garage door springs in. Just guessing. I am going to try stretching these spring and see what happens . Rob, Where do i get the SS 160 springs? or a lighter set of springs? I did a little searching and victory has a minimum order of $25.00 and some other place is over in England (I think). Just had a thought . There is a hobby shop near me ( RC Planes etc) maybe they have some springs that would work.
Stan

Hi Stan,
1st of all you probably have the shorter springs for a "black-head" type cart. When whomever changed it to a redhead, he was a dumhead, and did not bother to change the springs ! If you look at EPay, there is a person who "claims" to sell the correct ones--have him check the length and match it against yours (he also claims it is the correct size for a B-201, which is impossible, as the B thru G-W's were equipped with the shorter style). If correct, once installed, there should be no pressure from the oppisite side--either way, so setting it at 4 gms, should not be a problem--you will need to bend the arms back some--use caution, as they "will-snap off". Ron Rich