Sylvania console SC234K

Hi--

I recently purchased a Sylvania console, model number SC234K. Currently, I am using it to listen to the radio, and to a cd player connected to the tape inputs, and I am really happy with the sound quality. The record changer inside is a Garrard 2025T, and apparently, it has "Garrarditis": the automatic functions don't work, and the tonearm only plays the first 2/3 of the record before it won't go any farther. I found repair instructions on another site, but I can't perform them, because I simply cannot remove that 4" cog inside. I did play a 78 on it, and it, too, sounds great.

While I like working on electronics (I fix fax machines/copiers at my job,) I do not wish to inflict any damage on the equipment. I simply wish to be able to play records on my new console. What do you recommend? Shall I take the whole thing in for servicing, or should I consider replacing the changer? The owner's manual does mention that Dual 1010A, 1015, and 1019 models were also offered by Sylvania-- should I consider one of these?

Thank you,

Mike

Here are some pictures, hope it helps.


Mike

Have it serviced. - the cutout/mounting is only for a small-chassis Garrard.
Lock the tonearm in place to prevent damage.
The two changer retaining clips are easily accessed from underneath inside the console.
They get flipped vertically 90 degrees - most people don't know this, and try to pry the clips off the bolts, damaging them.
Un-plug the power molex and two audio RCA plugs, then lift it out.
It'll require a full restoration to perform properly. - it IS, over 40 years old, ya know.

I see the Garrard Syndrome here. I think I have fixed this more than anything else (including the 3 Garrards I have). The arm won't move in farther than about 3" from the spindle, and the changer won't trip.

The trouble is a lubricant Garrard put on the trip parts. It turns to a rubbery goo after about 10 years. It happens to all Garrard AT series and SL series changers (with overarms) and single players

The fix is easy to anyone with any mechanical skills:

1. Lock down the tonearm. Remove the spindle (if it is removable) and the turntable. Removing the spindle makes the circlip easy to remove to remove the turntable.

2. Remove the circlip from the change cycle cam and remove the cam.

3. There are two moving trip parts on the cam. Note carefully how they fit together on the cam.

4. Remove the circlip and the two trip parts.

5. Clean the shaft on one of the parts. Also clean out the hole.

6. Put a small amount of graphite lock lubricant in the hole and reassemble the parts on the cam. The graphite replaces the lubricant that was there, but does not dry out. Put the circlip back on the trip parts.

7. Clean the cam groove on the bottom of the cam. Coat the cam groove with a SMALL amount of grease. DO NOT get grease on the trip parts.

8. Clean the cam follower.

9. Clean the shaft the cam goes on and put a small amount of grease on it.

10. Put the cam back on the shaft. Rotate it once counterclockwise to seat the cam follower in the groove (the cam will drop onto the shaft when the follower seats. The changer will cycle, but the safety drive prevents the locked tonearm from moving. Stop rotating it when the gap in the gear teeth faces the turntable hub.

11. Put the circlip back on the cam

12. Move those two parts on the cam away from the spindle.

13. Replace the turntable, circlip, and spindle where they belong.

The repair is permanent.

It is Step 2, where everything ends for me. The cam is nearly permanently frozen in place, and I have used wd40, heat, and some other penetrating spray, in an attempt to remove it, all to no avail. I did, however, fix another Garrard with your information, and now that one works much better.

Mike

Record-changer wrote:


8. Clean the cam follower....

9. Clean the shaft the cam goes on and put a small amount of grease on it.

Um, Step 8... the cam follower..... is a ROLLER bearing that NEEDS to be free and rotate inside the cycle cam track - you didn't mention OILING the roller.

This one tiny step is ALWAYS ignored, and results in excessive friction during cycling, causing stalling during the change cycle.

Interesting. The two I have have just a plain stud there. This may be a later addition, or on only certain models. The bearing is not in the Sam's service manual either. I remember seeing it on an SL95, but not these.

Well, last Sunday, I gave up on trying to remove the four-inch silver cog on the 2025, and instead, restored a Garrard 40mk II I had purchased some years back. I used the instructions posted above, and it now runs perfectly. I removed the 2025, and installed the 40 mk II in the console.

Also, I had purchased a Varco cartridge form the Voice of Music site. I wanted to keep it electronically similar, especially since I would have had to find a ground if I had chosen a magnetic cartridge. The cart arrived today, and I installed it two hours ago. So far, it sounds fine, but I have no right channel. I'm wondering if the cart wiring needs to be replaced.

I still want to get it updated... I'm just itching to play me records again.

Miike

Check the muting switch. The cartridge wiring goes there, and the RCA jacks on the bottom are part of the muting switch assembly.

Also check that the cartridge is wired correctly.

I have never had heat fail to loosen up the dried up grease on the silver cam/gear in a Garrard Autoslim chassis.

By heat, I meant a LOT of heat. A hair dryer or even most heat guns won't work. I use a soldering iron and puddle a bit of solder on top of the shaft for better heat transfer. Let the soldering iron sit there and keep putting heat into the shaft. You will do no harm with excessive heat since these are all metal parts. Check occasionally with a cloth towel to protect your fingers, attempt to ROTATE the cam/gear, not pull it off straight. Once you have it broken loose so it will rotate you've got it made.