Rock-ola 464 plays randomly, but doesn't process selections

That's good to know. I guess the one's I found on ebay aren't an exact match. Here's mine:



Mine are V3L-111-D8 I can't read the amps, but everything else is on par with the ones from eBay (V3L-1101-D8) except they're 277 vac. A company in Israel still carries them and sells them on eBay global. Since my vac shouldn't exceed 125 I believe they would all work. I'm not an expert of course and just dabble in this stuff when needed. My soldering skills are extremely half a***d. I've fried about as many things as I've fixed. Anyway, I'll wait until someone tells me if I'm correct or incorrect before I place my order.

IMHO, the switches you located should work--the circuit is a "25volt" circuit, any rating above that should make no difference. Ron Rich

Thanks. I'll place an order. I looked at the innards of a micro switch and I can see why they were saying they're hard to fail. Still, nothing is 100% fail proof. I should have time to take the magazine motor off tomorrow. I'm pretty sure there is some binding that's tripping the breaker. What else could cause the breaker to trip when scanning manually?

The motor itself, can cause the CB to trip-drawing too much current-- Ron Rich

I cleaned and oiled as much of it as I could reach and now it scans fine without tripping the cb I gather from the previous post that if a motor is stressed (in my case from binding) it will cause it to draw more current and trip the cb-- at least that's what I'm assuming. It took about an hour of oiling and moving parts. I was hoping it would also fix the non-canceling readout issue, but that problem is still there (I lubed the gripper area again as well in case it might help). I should have the new micro switch in by Thursday and hopefully that will fix it.

Well... the problem is still there after replacing the switch. According to sequence 18 something is preventing the hammer coil from energizing to reset the selector levers. It's also supposed to open the counter circuit. I don't believe the counter has changed since i got it, but that could be a result of how free play is setup and I honestly haven't been paying attention to it, but I'll see if it changes next time I operate it.

I'll clean the heck out of the contacts inside the read-out carriage and slip rings again. I really thought the micro switch would fix it.

If you are talking about a self-contained electrical/mechanical "counter"--try clipping the leads on it. I have seen them "short out" and stop other items from being pulsed, on other equipment---worth a try ?? Ron Rich

Yes. That's what I'm talking about. I'll disconnect it and see what happens. After I cleaned the slip rings again I noticed the write in hammers were hitting two levers (selections) so the wobble plate may need adjusting. I was curious so I selected 100 and 200 and the carriage moved towards it. I heard the hammers fire, but no levers were moved. I read how to adjust it, but it shouldn't be the reason the levers aren't being canceled but it's weird that it decided to act up so badly after cleaning it. Especially since I only cleaned the slip rings on the read-out side.

I really hope disconnecting the counter fixes it

Read out and Write in sides are not connected in any way, electrically, or mechanically. If "hammering wrong" the arm, that's doing that, must be adjusted- Ron Rich

Okay. I fixed the wrong selection problems and disconnected the leads to the counter. The counter connects to the #2 and 2A micro switches (I thought it was only connected to 2A. Anyway, I imagine I need to test the hammer coils, but I'm fairly certain they'll work when energized. I've watched the cam depress the buttons on the micro switches and I even manually depressed 2A afterwards. I just want to see the hammers move on the read out. I should be able to remove the lead from the micro switch to test it, but I'll need to be spoon-fed on how much juice to send them.

Everything you guys have told me has been correct, I think it's something I'm missing. I doubt it's the play control relay. The wipers on the read-out could possibly be the issue. The inner most blades appear too be raised slightly more than the outer ones, but they're still making contact. I'm open to suggestions on what to do next.

All blades should "push against" the rings with the same tension. When properly adjusted there should be aprox. 10 grams of pressure there. Ron Rich

I'll take a picture of the blades. I don't have a tool to measure the pressure. Would I need a spring pressure gauge?

I'm looking through my manual on how to adjust the tension but I'm not finding it. I'll post the picture later tonight. I'm going to physically inspect the wires again to 2A and compare them with the wiring diagram.

https://imageshack.com/i/p8zwcXWQj

Since my 2A micro switch doesn't appear to be functioning (new or old) I decided to disconnect the leads. The Jukebox still functions the same. I then looked at the sequence for #2. It's supposed to switch the circuit through a resistor to slow the motor. I've never seen the motor slow except when it was binding. So the counter not working was a big clue I'd been overlooking because neither 2 nor 2A appear to be working. That would probably mean the cam needs adjusting, but I'm not sure because it seems fine. Of course I'm not qualified to say that, but I've watched it as it cycles through.

I also found three open connectors:

https://imageshack.com/i/f0BERhCkj
https://imageshack.com/i/p9OrkN7hj

What is this part called in front of the turntable and what exactly does it do? I found an illustration with it in the manual, but it doesn't have a name by it:

https://imageshack.com/i/f0Z6oL8Kj

Sorry for all the questions, but I think we're about to get to the bottom of it.

There are a few "unused" connectors in that series of Rock-Olas. They are for various accessories that can be added later. Remote volume control, Wallbox stepper, etc. I don't think you have anything to be concerned over.

That big wheel in the front is the popularity "meter". It shows the jukebox owner how many times each selection has been played. Back in the day, if a record wasn't getting much play, they'd yank it and it replace it with something else. No plays means no revenue. When it works correctly, the mechanism pushes a fingernail shaped piece out thru the front of the meter. You can get a quick visual on how a record is doing by how far each fingernail is sticking out. Hope that helps!

-Jim

Push on the center of the pop meter to reset it ! It is easy to bend the "fingers" when out like that--
Ron Rich