Wurlitzer 2710 Pre Set Solenoid = RED HOT!

Hello, My names Danny, and I'm a new guy. I joined up to this site hoping that there would be some juke techs out there that could help me in my restoration of my 1963 Wurly 2710. So nice to meet you! I do have an immediate question but I will fill in the story up to this point. I got the jukebox in 2001 gutted it, cleaned up and adjusted all the mech components as much as I could (per the factory shop manual) put everything back together. Worked great. The juke is rigged for free play, how I do not know becuase half of the coin mech is gone. The select light had always stayed lit and you could select a song and it would play, etc. So about 8 months ago the selector mech would start to "stick" every few songs. Over time it got worse but you could slap the top of the selector panel and it would go. last month it stopped completely (no select light, buttons locking , nothing) So I did some looking and I discovered that the contacts for the control switch where corroded so I cleaned them with a ultra fine emery board. and thought that would do it. Nothing, so I read some more and well you could adjust the actually selector switch. So I did that and nothing. Then fianlly I saw that on set of contacts weren't touching so I had to "adjust" them so they touched. It looks like the control switch has 2 sets plus one solo contacts, the two sets looks like there would susposed to be normally closed and the lone contact would to connected when you would select a song, (I assume to reset the pre-set solenoid)

My big problem now is The selector mech works again just like it used to, but now after you select a song the Pre Set Solenoid plunger goes down and engages (ready for a person to select the next song) and gets hot and RED Hot. you can smell it and see it get hot. So the only way I can stop this is to undo my adjustments so the the selector mech doesn't engage. I really need to know what I'm doing wrong or if someone has a pic of this area with the contact switch on a functional mach so I can see how it's originally suppose to look ( My shop manual pic is crap and I can't see the contacts clearly. I will include a pic of MY control switch so you all can see what I'm talking about. I would assume a 24,25,26 or 28oo series wurly juke would have a pretty close setup to this as well. So ANY help would be greatly appreciated

Unfortunately, the 2700 keyboard was the worst one WurliTzer ever used. It is unlike any other model, in that the others do not have the "pre-select" coil.
I don't have the schematic handy, but I think that there should be a large resistor in series with that coil. It may, or may not be "added in" via a switch. Check out the schematic, and be sure that the switch, if used, is operating correctly. As for the pix, it looks like you have the contacts fairly well adjusted, however the contact points should "come together" more evenly (ie. "flat"- up against each other). Would need to see a photo of them with the power off to be sure. One other thing--"emery board" is not recommended for contact cleaning--use a "Burnishing Tool"-- Ron Rich

Those pics are with the power off. Are the control switch contacts (The bent up ones) supposed to be open and NOT closed with no power? That's the only way I can get the select light to light and the mechanism to play a record and then reset for the next selection is having the contacts closed. I'm also not very good at reading schematics, I can do adjustments, etc... but not schematics, I do have them though. If I scanned and posted them would that help? ( Anyone out there who can read them I guess.)

Also Here's what it looks like powered up.

Danny,
I do not want to be insulting you, but I know of no other way to put this--
---IF-- that solenoid is relaxed, with the plunger extended, You need to un-plug that phonograph now, and leave it un-plugged before you cause more harm. Those "blades" look like they will suffer no more "adjusting". Then you need to find someone with more knowledge of how switches work to help you. It also appears (this maybe due to photo angle) that one of the silver contact points is worn beyond it's useful life, and needs replacement. I strongly suggest that you find a "pro" in your area to help--- Ron Rich

Ron don't worry about, I don't claim to be an expert though I really don't think I messed with things up anymore then how it was originally setup, ya I did bend the blades alittle when I adjusted the contacts. So what is the pre set solenoid supposed to be doing when the juke is working right? Is it supposed to be pulled in all the time with power on? (that's how it has been , even before I had adjustment problems), With the power off it extends/relaxes. (Please note my pics are upside down) So when the jukebox is on right now ,since I adjusted the control contacts, the preset plunger pulls in with power on (select light on,letter/number buttons lock in and record mech works) and relaxes/extends with the power off. So I'll be honest I'm confused, not dumb but confused.


Ron I would have someone around my area look at my box believe me but I live in nowhere North Dakota and the nearest city that could possibly have someone that would work on these old machines would be in Minneapolis MN, 598 miles away, So not living in a big city and not having abunch of services at my reach I guess is my disadvantage. I was hoping for someone here to try to tutor me through on with getting this problem fixed. It's really with only option I have other then selling a perfectly good box juke that needs some small thing (probably) adjusted,chopped out for parts on e-bay. If you saw how this jukebox looked when I got it and how many hours I spent pulling every part out and readjusting/cleaning and then reinstalling , you'd be impressed.

Hello all, Just updating, took some time and learned to read schematics. So with my new found knowledge got my problem fixed, though I still have to suffer with a shot control switch. I have it mended and will hold but I really need a new one. Does anyone (and I know someone will) know where I could find one ?.......and not for $300.00 for the switch alone? (Some online website wanted that, plus shipping) I know my box is probably worth about $300.00 by it'self so some help would be good....if possible

-Thanks , Danny

Hello,

To me both of those leaf switches need work or replacing, you can strip them down and replace any of the leaf's so you get a good contact. We normally clean these in operation with a paper taper of fibre glass pencil to just hone the silver tips but yours are past redemption.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man

As being new to the whole electronics thing but am a quick learn where can I get the strips to replace on my relays? Do they come with contacts points on as well?

Not quite sure what you are attempting to do--??
Do you need to fix "relays" or "contact switches" ? Relays are available thru most any good electronic supply store--contact blades and silver points are another "madder", and are difficult to find at this time ( anyone have a good source ?) Ron Rich

Ron the contact blades and silver points are what I need replaced , as you can see from the pictures above they are shot, I am surprised that I got them even working as well as they do right now.

Lotza Luck !!
I have a few 'points" left, and I make some from old silver dimes, but supply is short !
Might check with the "Pinheads"--err, sorry 'bout that--"Pinball guys"--they might have a source or two left--
Post it if you find it ! Ron Rich