Phonoland

I have a M100c and it was playing good. Then the record started slowing and stopped. Now nothing happens when you make a selection. Can anyone help me?

Thanks

Usual cause of that problem is the motor run condenser--replace it--see list of suppliers above.
Ron Rich

Thank You Ron. I am ordering one today.

How do I go about wiring in the new cap? The old one has no markings on it.

Do you have the service manual ? (old one was "rubber stamped"-probably faded) That's the best way--follow the schematic. If not, is there a red colored contact on the old one--if so, that's common, and the wire going to the second set of contacts on the switch stack is the "Hi" side. Ron Rich

I have a service manual but the schematic isn't very clear. See attachments of what I have. Thanks

"Ultra" if you trace the lead that goes to the "O"set of contacts on the vertical stack, that is the larger value section of the cap (approx 1.7mfd). that is only on in scan-change.

The other lead is the "run" -always on (approx .75 mfd).

Rob/NYC

Would you have a clear schematic of the capacitor that you could send me a picture of?
Thanks

All that I have on this comp are these two from an LPC:

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g7 ... bbfd04e59c

-Look all the way to the right. you'll see that the .75 is always in and the 1.65 is added via the "O" contacts during scan & change.

Here is another:

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gf ... 35b309b31a

It shows that the cap is connected to the Green wire from the motor. The rest of this print is different in that direction is controlled by a relay not the paddle switch.

Rob-NYC

Guy's
Seeburg used three different "motor run caps" from 1949 to the last SMC built.
The original type was 1.4, and 1.0 uf. This was used to the LPC run, when they changed it to 1.65, and .75. The SMC's used two 2.2's. The first two are interchangeable, with no mod's needed, however I strongly suggest you use the later one for a "native 33 rpm" phono.
DO NOT go by wire color, as it was very inconsistent, from production run to run !
You should have a "red dot" on or very close to a solder point on the old cap--that is the "C", or "Common".
Find that dot, clip the wire, and mark it "C". Next find the (short) wire going to the "O" contacts---
This wire goes to the "Hi" condenser--(be it 1.4, or 1.65). Clip it, mark it "H", or whichever the new cap(you have purchased), shows as the higher number, and cut it free. The last wire is the "low" number marked on the new cap.
Clip it, and remove ( just loosen clamp screws-and "pull up") and install your new cap--simple !!
Ron Rich

Received my Capacitor today and install it. Jukebox works fine now. Thank you very much for all of your help, I really appreciate it.. I am new to Jukeboxes and am learning a lot. Thanks again.

Glad to help--now a word of "advise"--OIL It, using 20 wt. motor oil, only--
Ron Rich

Now I have another problem: It seemed to be working fine now the volume is fluctuating up and down and the record seems to be running slow. Any ideas on this? Thanks.

What is the model # of the amp and has it been rebuilt? -If not please do NOT use it till it the capacitors are changed and been thoroughly tested.

Fluctuating level can be the result of a faulty stylus where where the damping and support has deteriorated and the stylus flops around in the flux gap.

Till you get the amp serviced remove the 5U4 tube to get the high voltages out of it -better yet remove the map altogether. You can plug the RCA plug from the pickup into any amp with a magnetic phono input for test while awaiting an amp rebuild.

If you are sure that the new motor cap is correctly connected and as Ron mentioned uses the proper values, connect the pickup to an external amp and run the machine for a few records and see if speed picks up. If so it means that the motor bearings are probably badly gummed and glazed.

Check the condition of the motor coupler -is it stiff or reasonably flexible. Remove the long bearing sleeve above the worm gear on the motor, clean out any existing oil and re-lube.

Rob/NYC

If you audio, and motor speed are changing TOGETHER, the problem is either on the play control relay contacts, or a power problem from the wall outlet to the internal connections in the phono.
Like Rob stated--get the amp rebuilt ! Ron Rich