Mech maintenance questions

It's time for me to do regular maintenance on my AY160. I have just received (and studied) Ron's guide and looking forward to the work.

I've done about 4 maintenance cycles since I've owned the machine. Based on the original overall condition, the jukebox appears to have been lightly used and not regularly serviced.

To note, I've done a complete jukebox rebuild 2 years ago including all electronics.

The lubricant I used in my past servicing was the 3n1 red detergent can. I now have the non-detergent 20w can.

Questions :
1. Nothing appears gummed up (yet) and is operating properly. Everything is very clean.
Can I just stop using the detergent and switch to the non-detergent oil or do I need to clean the old stuff out else it eventually gum?

2. I've filled the motor oil cups with the detergent oil about 6 times. Do you suggest I remove the motor, disassemble and clean it all out?

3. The paint on my casting looks great except for a few minor scratches.
I always cover the casting with soft towels when servicing and be very mindful of it... yet I usually get a new scratch or two.
What do you usually do to prevent paint damage during servicing?

4. What mechanical spare parts do suggest I keep on hand? Such as the motor coupler etc?

Thanks!

Steve, since no one else chimed-in, I'll answer your questions:

1

Can I just stop using the detergent and switch to the non-detergent oil or do I need to clean the old stuff out else it eventually gum?

Most of these old mechs have had everything thrown at them (I've heard of vegetable oil being used). If the machine runs smoothly and on direct line current -not through an autospeed, it is Ok to just lube correctly. If glazing has occurred as a result of detergent build-up it will cause squealing on the upper bearing atop the worm gear above the motor.

2

I've filled the motor oil cups with the detergent oil about 6 times. Do you suggest I remove the motor, disassemble and clean it all out?

As above, I say leave it alone of operating correctly. Taking the motor apart is only necessary when it runs slow on a speed unit (a common problem on LPC-PFEA1U and SS160).

3: No opinion.

4

What mechanical spare parts do suggest I keep on hand? Such as the motor coupler etc?

If kept lubed and used at least several times a month there isn't any need for mech parts as a rule.

I do have some general recommendations:

-Styli. Right now there are high quality repro styli being made for the "T" needle cart. While they are expensive,, one spare set are a good idea. When these stop being made there may be no other option than changing the whole tonearm to use a later cart.

-Tubes. I suggest at least one of each type. Better yet a pair of 6973's and a couple of 12AX7 and 2050's. The latter haven't been made in over 30 years and eventually stocks will be depleted. The circuit can be modified to eliminate the 2050, there are several approaches to this, but none are 'drop-in" (that I know of).

-Fluorescent tubes. I suggest ordering a half dozen of the type used in your machine and, BTW: Did you change the ballasts?
The manufacture of these oddball sizes (28"-30"-33") are on borrowed time as most of the vending and display appliances that used them are being converted to LED's. I bought two cases of 33" 25W (60 tubes) for my commercial operations using 201-K-V-VL. Hopefully this will last till phase these old machines out. I've found this place to be reliable with stock and packing-shipping: https://www.1000bulbs.com/?gclid=CJaFlf ... Hwod4KgPXA

Rob-NYC

Hi Steve,
OK--I'll bite on #3---
What are you using for "oil" that "scratches" ?? I have been using a "Valve Spout" oilier for at least 45 years, and as far as I know--it ain't "scratched nothing"--yet ?? As for motors--I clean, re-lube all Bodine brand motors that come into the shop. Instructions are in the guide, you purchased--thanks ! BTW--should anyone want a Valve spout oilier, ( that Seeburg sold/gave away at some service schools) go to ww.longs.co.uk and search that name--I use the small hole, bent one, shown. Ron Rich

Thanks for the tips I would not have thought of light bulbs and ballast.

Paint scratches:
Once a year I remove the whole phono out the back of the cabinet and do a complete thorough cleaning of the phono and to clean any dust collected in the cabinet. I put the phono on a bench and remove the magazine and Tormat to expose the entire rear of the mech. I find it is a lot easier to locate and access all the various oil points, and do a more thorough inspection. I do the few adjustments on re-assembly but don't mind.

I leave the phono in the cabinet at 6 months and run the mech all the way to the left bumper (Facing the rear) for lubrication. But I may miss a couple oil points in the cramped and awkward position.

I use a long 10" small flat blade screwdriver for oil application. I put a measured drop of oil on the tip and apply. Works great especially for cam rollers.
My casting still looks good, but I'm beginning to accept that scratches just happen.
Thanks again!

Steve, it is your machine and thus your decision on how to maintain it but, I consider that level of diss-assembly total overkill and it just risks broken wires and or bent mech parts.

Other than when I was assembling a mech from various parts, the only times I removed the magazine was to replace a clutch, free up a frozen safety lever or in one case when the mechanism was exceptionally dirty and normal washing wasn't enough and I was replacing the contact block with a later type.

Rob

Hi Guys,
I concur with Rob on this one--Totally, way, "overkill", especially since the phono is in home use. I attempt to NEVER remove a record rack, even when mech is filthy---If lubed correctly (NOT with "Lubriplate" ! --see my Seeburg Mech Guide), a drop or two of the correct oil will keep it running for many a year--Ron Rich