Help with seeburg 100B

Fred,
I dono what to say--except that none of the "switches" on the mechanism,nor anything on the frog, have any connection with "pulling" a pin--- ??
Ron Rich

Hello Ron
I had about an hour last night so I started tracing wires and making notes. Funny thing I went thru all the switches and the frog to make sure I didn't short something out my self. I put a fuse in, according to my diagram this is the fuse next to the 1.5 slow blow it goes to the 25 volt transformer. I plugged it in and the light on the top of the mech. came on. I hit the scan switch, the mech. went back and forth I realized the service switch was off. As soon as I turned it on the light on the mech. went dim and then out the fuse blew. I didn't have time last night other than to check the two new switches (scan and service) they look good. I would like to try looking tonight it is the last time I will be able to for a couple of weeks but I'm not real sure how to test the 25 volt transformer or do you think I'm going in the wrong direction
Thank you
Fred S

Fred,
I really don't know how to word this, as I don't want you to take it as an insult--that's not my objective--but, you have probably "gotten in over your head", and I would suggest that you need to find a local pro to help you, prior to doing any more damage. Ron Rich

Yes like slapping a sunburn it stings a little but I think your right. I am going to go over all of my work and check all connections. if I don't see anything I will call the guy that went thru the amp and power supply a few years ago. I don't expect him to fix it for nothing but it still stings that he went thru it 5 or 6 years ago and I let it sit on the shelf while I worked on the other ones
Thank you
Fred S

Hello Ron
Last post for a while but Can the cancel coils on the frog be tested as is or do they need to be un-soldered because they are in series and last are they 3.5 to 3.8 ohm
Thank you
Fred S

Fred,
Yes--you can apply voltage to them from an outside source, With the mechanism un-plugged !--but why ?? These coils have norelationship to your write-in" problem---and the resistance is within range-Ron Rich

No sorry I shouldn't have said "tested" What I should have said was on the cancel coils can I put an ohm meter to each one while they are still soldered together. Because one lead from each coil is attached to each other I didn't know if that would throw the reading off
and from 3.5 to 3.8 would be a good reading
Thanks
Fred

yes

I am so interested in this. I keep wanting to find the problem but I really have run out of time. I need to be out of here in two hours. However I discovered something last night. I went over everything I did to this machine. The CC/U, the run service switch's, cleaning and adjusting all the switches Etc. I put a fuse in the unit, I turned it on, The mech. light came on and the unit will scan to the left and to the right with the scan switch. Now if I have the reversing switch set for the unit to scan to the right and I turn the service switch to play the right cancel coil goes on it wont go off it just keeps buzzing. If I turn the service switch off and I flip the reversing switch for the unit to scan to the left and I turn the service switch to play it blows the fuse. I have traced all the wires to the cancel coils none of them are shorted. I traced all the wires on the cancel switches and I checked all the switches themselves. I have made sure all the connections are good and not grounding out or shorting to one or the other. I spoke to the man who went thru the power supply and amp he was pretty sure it was not the power supply. That by my description something was drawing a lot of power that shouldn't be. He suggested I go over everything and follow the wiring diagrams which is what lead me to the discovery of the cancel coil and blowing the fuse when the reversing switch was set to scan to the left. I know, In over my head, going to cause more damage but how do you learn. I wanted to post this just in case something rings a bell with someone from passed experience
Thank you
Fred S

Hello Ron
I walked away like you said I left it sit for a while. I had other things to take care of. Yesterday I spent all day reading the schematic and tracing wires.
I started at the frog. The first thing I did was check the cancel coils with my ohm meter. One was 26.4 and other 25.7 I thought I had the meter set wrong so I checked the setting and tried the Trip solenoid it was 6.5 I un-soldered the leads to the cancel solenoids and checked them again one was at 26.4 the other 25.7 I thought these were to be 3.4 to 3.6? Are the coils shot?
Next I traced the five wires from the frog to the front of the Mech. I isolated the switches by putting a piece of card stock in between the contacts. I made sure each wire was where it supposed to be. I then traced the wire on the other side of the switch to where it was supposed to go. Now here is where I run into discrepancies between my schematic and what I have. I traced the wires from the CP/CC plug The number 2 pin on the Carriage power and control circuit is 25V it goes to the number 2 lug on the T.S. 2 strip and from there it goes to the trip solenoid and the center of the LC/RC switch on the reversing switch.
However my number 2 pin goes to Lug #4 on the TS2 strip. Pin #3 should go to lug #4 on the strip. But mine goes to lug #2 I believe the two wires need to be switched at the plug?
This brings me to the TS2 strip it's self. I thought the strip was mounted up side down but it doesn't add up
Counting from the bottom there are 5 lugs as in the schematic. I have included a picture of mine I know it is hard to see from a picture but I had to try. I am going to list the lugs from bottom to top and what is soldered to each.
Lug #1 & #2 are soldered together there is a jumper between the two (according to schematic it shouldn't)
(Clamp arm switch, Pin #3 CP/CC plug, Cam Switch V)
Lug #3 Pin #4 CP/CC plug, Negative side of carriage light, positive side of selection indication light.
Lug #4 Trip coil red wire, pin # 2 CP/CC plug, Center post of LC/RC on reversing switch.
Lug #5 Trip coil white wire, Clutch switch W, Switch V on cam switch.
I want to switch the #2 and #3 wires on the CP/CC socket but after tracing the wires from the TS2 strip
I needed your opinion.
Thank you for your reply
Fred S

Fred,
PM me--I do not have time right now--
will check later, or tomorrow--
Ron Rich

Hello Ron
I was going to PM you but I thought it best to finish this thread for future reference. I called the gentleman you suggested. Turns out he is about 5 miles from me. We had a good conversion on the phone. I explained the problem along with the trs2 strip and the # 2 and 4 prong on the mech. plug being backwards. His comment was to look closely at the schematic because they/someone could have mounted the strip upside down. He went on the say that to him it was a timing/switching problem. I said I was going to try it one more time. If I couldn't get it I would take the unit to him.
First he was right about the strip it was mounted upside down everything checked out correctly.
I sat down with the book and re-read everything with the clutches and switches. I set all the clutches then went on to the switches. I made sure they were straight then followed each step. When I was done I cycled the unit from scan to play then back to scan. I did all of this by hand. I checked the switches and found they were still slightly out of adjustment. So I adjusted all the switches again. I did this three times until I cycled the unit and found the switches were all set to very close spec. This Seeburg plays like a champ. I have it in my workshop. It played A1 to J10 all weekend long. I played it for the last two days. Not one problem showed up. It scans, plays and returned each record. I wanted to thank you for your help on this. I have never had a juke this far out of adjustment. I have learned a lot from this one.
Thank you
Fred S
Also the gentleman said someone has to be #2 it might as well be him

Hi Fred,
Thanks for the post--
WOW--some people should be "PREVENTED" from having a screwdriver---
Glad you figured it out--and also glad "#2", was able to help
Ron Rich