I'd like to hook up with a Wurlitzer 2800 expert...

The vendor is listed and it's Victory Glass. Zucarro had me call Denny to see if there was any kind of upgrade like you suggested (metal) and he wasn't aware of any. I know I can make a better version of these but at 20 bucks a pop I'm going to limit my efforts.

This has been an interesting enterprise, resurrecting a dead juke box. I have nothing but admiration and appreciation for those of you that do this regularly. It wouldn't be my cup of tea, but I'll maintain what I own as I can't afford a pro to come out and work on the thing.

I hope this thread lives to serve any future 2800 owners that may be searching for info. No doubt they can get the best help here.

Thanks.

Well, I'm back to say that my rubber fabricated lift 'cradles" seemed to work pretty well. However, I still have a problem hitting the guide plate/kill switch. That thing is so sensitive. I think It's time to throw in the towel and get some help. The only people I know in this game so far are Ron and Rob here, and Mike in San Diego who isn't about to do a service call. If anyone can recommend one of the repair outfits that are located in the general SoCal area. I'd be glad to throw some business their way.

I did talk awhile to Don Muller but his guy is on the other side of the US right now and not expected back in town until mid September. I could wait but I thought I'd ask about others. Please PM me rather than show any bias here.

Thanks.

Zeks, the problem with your machine should be straightforward.

First, when the lift arms are fully extended and the record clamped in play position a flat record should be centered in the duckbills.

It is normal for a record to strike the stripper plate and guide "tits" as it is lifted. This may cause the stripper plate to shift slightly but never enough to kill the operation. The spring that holds it in the normal position should be reasonably firm.

The kill switch is in series with the AC control relay in the amp and the its normal position is with the contacts closed. If you have tried adjusting the screws as I mentioned earlier, it is possible that the switch's internal contacts have become erratic and any slight disturbance causes them to open.

I've never had this problem on that particular switch, but it is a common occurrence in aged microswitches.

In these cases replacing the switch is the best solution, but flushing it with contact cleaner has also worked for me.

Aside from making the machine more pleasant to work on a lot of these problems are dealt with if the entire mechanism is partially disassembled and washed before actual testing is done.

Rob

Rob,
I have seen many a Micro ( and other similar brands) switches become intermittent.
In fact I once won a "bet" with a (very young) MicroSwitch engineer over this--
However, I have never found a way to "flush" a sealed switch --I have opened several, and been able to re-close some of them, but not most---How do you "flush it" ?? Ron Rich

"How do you "flush it""

I assume you mean the microswitch .

That depends on the switch. If we are talking about the small types as Rowe uses I hold it with actuator upwards and drip in some contact cleaner while working it.

On some types I soak them and work them while submerged, rinse in hot water and blow dry with the vac I use to dry electronics. Once they stop dripping I add (gasp) some WD40.

I've yet to find one that didn't respond well to this treatment.

In the late 80's I bought some highly recommended Japanese black micros for use in the Rowe machines. After a few years they began to fail so I simply washed and lubed the original green/red switches that Rowe had used. To-date none have needed to be replaced. I did mod the mechs to go from 7 to 3 and 4 switches so that improved reliability too, but the original switches did hold up well.

Rob.

Hi Rob,
Yes--MicroSwitch and other "brands" of sealed switches--
Very interesting--I never thought that could be done--tho, I am somewhat scared of the WD-40.
I would think it would do very well in "drying out" the switch, but, it might also leave "something" deposited on the contacts- ??
I'll give that a try, on the next intermittent one I find--thanks !
Ron Rich

I always considered WD40 to be, here it comes: Gepetto, but I have a KLH model Twelve clock radio (1973) by my bed. Every few years the miniature slide sw that switches AM-FM would become intermittent.

I got tired of taking the set apart to clean the switch so I tipped the set face up and dripped two drops of WD40 into the switch and worked it in.

Doing this the switch is silent for 3-4 years. Then just do it again.

There is a guy who used to "fix" jukeboxes when he lived in NJ and now lives in FLA. He used to say "WD40 fixes everything" I actually saw him spray a cloth tonearm wire on a Rock ola (his favorite make) in order to free it up.

This sort of thing originally turned me off of using that product..but it does have some uses.

Rob

Rob,
I have also seen the tone arm wire sprayed with it--this was a plastic covered wire, when I was working at an "operators emergency night service". Our repair men were allowed 15 minutes, ONLY to "fix" any thing--A pound of "bailing wire" and a ton of "chewing gum" was used nightly,--and especially on week-ends. We were also required to fill in a "slip", in duplicate--one copy sent to the operator in the AM, so his "repair person" could return and fix it correctly ( like--how many times did THAT happen ??) Ron Rich

Update: I have one side working reliably. I still think the lift arm on the other side is bent, but I'm happy to be able to play any letter using odd numbers. Usually only one good or A side on a 45 anyway. Which brings me to a new problem starting to develop. I know I need to start learning about the coin mech. Doesn't like dimes but 2 nickles or a quarter work. It's set for one play for 10 cents, 3 for 25. A lot of the time I don't get the 2nd and third selection for the quarter.

Something makes me think that's not in the coin mech but somewhere else.

Which "coin mech" is installed in that phono--name and model number ??
Ron Rich

NR Model # 1-22-000 NDOH. The letters are scratched and that's my best estimate.

OK--That's a "National Rejector" (brand) Nickle -Dime -Quarter -Half/dollar mechanism. BUT--I am not sure if it is the correct one for a 2800 ??How many coin switches are there, 3 or 4 ? If only 3, it's wrong, at least for the frame--
Remove it from the frame, and wash it with warm, soapy water ( liquid dishwasher detergent works best).
Rinse with warm water--"blow dry" --do not "over heat"--plastic will become brittle-- Remove every "rocker", one at a time and wipe the post with a dry, clean cloth. Use a toothpick, to clean out the rocker bearing--re-assemble--NO OIL, or anything else, anywhere !!
It should now work, ( be sure you cleaned the dime path on the rear, well).
Check your coin switch cleanliness, and adjustments as per the Service Manual--These can also be CAREFULLY "washed".
Ron Rich

3 switches if you're talking about the ability to change the number of plays per coin in the adjacent box.

Will follow the instructions to clean, thank you. Funny, it does look newer and cleaner than most of the components in the cabinet.

I try to search and read as much as possible before asking questions. I have read that open play in not as easy as it might seem. I'd be happy to have free play. Why am I using money in my own house?

Not asking that--asking how many SWITCHES, are under the slug rejector--coins are supposed to "hit" these--
The unit is easy to "put on free play". Simply slip the large spring around the credit wheel in the Play rak, to the other side of the wheel--add credits once, and they will remain forever. Ron Rich

Sorry Mr. Rich. I don't speak juke box berry well yet and I do have the manual. Therefore I will admit to not looking at it for the coin apparatus. It's on the first page.

Anyway, it has 4 switches and looks like the one in the factory manual.

I'll look for the credit wheel if I can't get it to work after cleaning.

Thank you.