Wurlitzer 2150 Wallbox thoughts/questions

I'm thinking about getting a wallbox. The good news is that the 2150 comes with the stepper and, near as I can tell, everything looks to be in great shape. (The only thing on that jukebox that was in great shape, by the way. Seems like that clear plastic cover did it's job). First question. Am I an idiot for trying to hook up a wallbox? Will it just frustrate me trying to get it to work? Second question. From looking at the schematics, it appears that there are three wires that go from the wall box to the juke box. Is that correct? Is there a specific type of wire recommended for this application? (To be honest, given the length of the run, that could be a show stopper). I have seen references to wireless setups. It would appear to be fairly basic technically to have wireless interface in order to eliminate the run. Is this a possibility? Any thoughts on that?
Thanks
Brooks

Goat, as in our previous encounters the answers to your questions depends on your technical comfort zone.

-The first Wurlitzer wallboxes used the same numbering system as Seeburg (A1-B1) . Beginning with the 2200 they went to their own choice (A1-A2). The later boxes can be used interchangeably by renumbering the pages.

- Do not assume that the stepper will "just work" because it looks OK. Chances are you will need to at least clean the contacts on relays and wafer. The wipers used metal bearings so the swelling problem does not exist -but old oil may have to be removed.

-First make sure the wallbox reliably puts out proper pulses. After thorough cleaning and lubing, connect a 28volt bulb between the 25 volt source and signal terminal and make a number of selections. You should see consistent blinking with one gap in between the latter and number trains.

-As for cable length, I have a location where the distance from machine to the first wallbox is just over 130ft. For that I used 16-3 cable. The signal conductor carries negligible current, but that was the easiest cable to buy. For runs under 100ft, 18-3 will be fine and under 30ft even 20ga will work.

_ i can't advise about a wireless link in your case, but understand that this system is based on a DC link. For a wireless link to work the pulses will have to be converted to an AC signal in the audible range, transmitted and then used to trigger a relay the closes the circuit in pulses corresponding to the selection made. NBD technically, but unless the wallbox is going to be moved around it would seem simpler to just run the cable.

I set up this sort of system for a person who owned a large townhouse on Riverside Drive back in 1990. The juke was in the room next to his swimming pool in the basement and he wanted to be able to use the wallbox for parties on the roof. I used a small packaged oscillator with 1khz output to modulate the transmitter and had to build a small DC amplifier to trigger a transistor that operated a relay at the juke. Fortunately, his whole building was wired for sound, so all I have to do was run a short cable from the juke to the main amp and provide switchover.

The wireless system worked but wasn't portable and the osc-transmitter had to be in a fixed location inside the elevator room on the roof bulkhead. At one point he forgot to bring in the wallbox (or was too high) and it got rained-on. Only the title strips suffered any lasting damage. This was for a fellow stock investor and I owed him a few favors...he paid me anyway.

Rob-NYC

C'mon Rob, we've had enough interaction for you to know my technical acumen is hovering around a 9. Unfortunately, that would be on a scale of 1-100 with 1 being 'which end of the plug goes into the wall?'

Actually, since I have a couple of pinballs, the whole stepper system was about the only part of the jukebox I understood. So, when I got the jukebox, I attacked that component first, cleaning and gapping switches, making sure everything worked properly. Of course, that had nothing to do with getting my jukebox to play (remember '9' on a scale of 1-100). I am confident that I can run wires, and, based on your explanation, I am equally confident that wireless is not an option for me.

My speaker wire run is about 100 feet, so the stepper should be about the same (I have to route the wires in a very circuitous manner) . It sounds like I may be able to get a wallbox to work. The boss is extremely nervous because I don't have a project and cold weather has set in, so this may be worth pursuing.

Finally, I used to feel badly about taking advantage of your help and good nature. But since you are a stock investor, I figure I've probably contributed enough to your retirement plan to cover the cost of your consultation many times over! For some reason I seem to always get that buy low sell high thing backwards!

" ---buy low, sell high--" ? Why didn't someone ever tell me that, before ??? Ron Rich

" ---buy low, sell high--"

Ron, that means the stocks -not you!

Rob

Rob,
Oh ?? Thanks for the info--
Ron Rich

I pulled the trigger on a Wurlitzer 5250 wallbox (actually won an auction on ebay). My wife did not share my enthusiasm for the purchase... seems like women always ask irrelevant questions like 'where are you going to put it?" or "how are you going to make sure no wires show?" (Now, to be sure, she does appreciate the fact that I will be toiling in my workshop for hours on end.) Anyhow, I told her that she should be happy for me that I got it. This AM, I think she was feeling badly about giving me grief so she asked what it looked like... "Uh, I'll have to show you some images of one" "Why is that? Just show me the one you got". Alas, I had to fess up that what I purchased was really a box of parts. Looks to be complete and in good shape, but after putting the guilt trip on her and then having to admit it may not work, heck may not even be complete, well it kind of wrecked the moment. As noted earlier in this thread, I'm not the brightest bulb in the box...a fact of which she is well aware.

In any case, I may well be leaning on the expertise of this group to get it assembled and working. I noticed a manual for the 5250 on e-bay. I'll check my DVD of Wurlitzer manuals; however, if I don't have it, do you think I will need it?
Thanks
Brooks

Brooks, if it is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wurlitzer-Model ... SwCypWoX56 -It appears complete.

These are considerably simpler than the Seeburg 200 in that they have simple mechanical crediting and deduction. In the late 80's I had 8 of the various versions including one with two coin inlets. I didn't use them because they don't accumulate credit beyond the first coin. That won't matter to you, however, be sure to thoroughly lubricate the motor and all mechanical surfaces.
Aside from not accumulating, the only minor flaw was that they do develop a bit of slop in the linkage of the cams and and wiper assembly -NBD as I doubt it will get severe enough to cause a problem in home use.

Rob

Yes, that's it. It looked complete to me as well, but then again, I don't know what 'complete' looks like
I'll clean, lube, set gaps and cross my fingers!
Thanks
Brooks

Thought I already posted so maybe I posted in a different thread...hard as hell getting old!

Anyhoo, after cleaning, lube and checking things out, I discovered the microswitch that registers on the drop of a coin isn't working. So any recommendations of where to source this? Or just the usual suspects?
Thanks
Brooks

Hi Brooks,
"Micro Switch" makes many different switches--also there are other companies that make small enclosed switches.
Is this "something special"--like a light duty spring, "special-non changeable" actuator? Micro Switch is still making most of them--you might contact them and see if that one is still made ( get the number off the side), and where to purchase it--I think that Granger sells them--- Ron Rich

Well, I tend to use micro switch in the generic I'm not sure it is even made by Micro. What I have found (at least as it pertains to pinball) is that the 'tang' is unique to the application. In this case it is just a long piece of wire that serves to actuate (similar to the end of play switch on the jukebox that activates at the end of the record....hmmm...I think I may take a gander at that one to see if it is the same).

Regardless, I'll actually look at the manual to see the actual part number and see if Granger has them. Thanks for the suggestion

Brooks

Brooks,
The manual may, or may not show the manufacture's number--it probably only shows the WurliTzer house number--look at the switch itself--if it has a number on it, and it's a gen-u-whine, Micro Switch, the number will tell them exactly which actuator ( and ALL other specs) was attached to it. Ron Rich

Brooks, try jumping that micro and see what works when you inset a coin. That somewhat goofy arrangement bases the number of credits on the position of the paddle under the validator, so jumping the micro may not give the full credit w/out a coin as well.

Rob

I admit it befuddles me. The first thing I did was to jump it but it didn't seem to do anything. That whole credit mechanism with the multiple posts makes no sense to me. I simply can't wrap my head around how the devil a different sized coin will actually initiate credits. The switch is micro and is a V4-19 but they don't seem to be made these days (or at least I can't find them).

The manual has a test sequence; however, it is dependent on the coin actuator for initiation. I have discovered that I can get the wallbox to interface with the stepper and play a song so I am feeling confident that the wallbox will work. The bad news is that I don't understand the cycle and components well enough to understand what I am doing and why it is working.