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Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:02 pm
by ds100h
I have the opportunity to pick up a 222 that was involved in a flood. It is allegd the unit worked before the flood and was unpluged before the flood hit. There is a light coating of silt on the parts. The speakers appear to be fine, while the cabinet will probably need to have the sides reveenered. What damage would this have caused to the electrial selector and other components? Will it be possible to just clean the unit up and re-lubricate the unit without the need to replace the amp, receiver, mech, tormat etc?

Best
Darrell

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 2:33 am
by Ron Rich
Darrell,
Just depends--how far under, what type of water, for how long --and how long ago ?
Ron Rich

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 3:51 am
by Rob-NYC
Darrell, the answer is a qualified "yes".

While I've washed well over a thousand pieces of electronic equipment over the years, I don't believe any were ever subjected to salt water infiltration.

So, let's go over it:

For the electronic units -amp sel rcvr, the approach I'd take is my traditional one. Wash the unit with diluted floor stripper or similar degreasing agent, then flush with hot water. Blow dry with warm forced air and set the unit near a source of heat for a day or two. At home that means leaving it a few inches over a radiator with the parts side of the chassis pan facing up.

----To the extent possible keep water out of the transformers----

A similar tactic can be used for the mech, keyboard cabinet etc.

Make sure all mechanical components are "exercised" manually during the washing process to work out any salt that may have penetrated slide and bearing surfaces.

---Lube liberally afterward---

The Tormat itself should be Ok. Here I'd just carefully remove the cover (you'll void the 5 year warranty :-)) flush it with soapy water and rinse thoroughly, blow dry. This is a simple device, if you don't see corrosion around the solder points inside, it should be alright.

Remove all removable covers to plugs and flush there too.

Given the higher voltages used in these old machines I'd have to save that there is only about a 40% chance that the transformers will be longterm usable after exposure to salt water.

Over the years I did buy several machines that had been stored in awful conditions. One spent 4-5 years in a backyard in NJ -most of that time unprotected. It made a full recovery but i did partially disassemble the bottom of the cabinet after finding significant rust on the screws that held it together.

Again, the key items are the coils (transformers etc) being exposed to salt water.

You have some work ahead of you.

Good luck, Rob

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:17 am
by ds100h
Rob & Ron

About 4 or 5 years go there was a flood involving the Cedar river and Cedar Rapids, Iowa. How long the machine was under water is unknown but, most likely less than a few days. Also unknow is how it was dried out, I would guess it just sat around without being dried out properly. It was fresh water, so salt water does not come into play. About one year ago the owner sold the unit to a father & son ($150.00) that knew nothing about Jukeboxes and planned to restore it. They began to disassemble the unit and clean the parts. It is about 75 per cent cleaned up and is laying around and in parts bags!

Sounds like the transformers and coils would most likely need to be replaced, they broke one side glass moving the unit and the decal washed off the remaining glass. Victory glass has a replacement side decal and Victory Glass and A1 Jukebox also have many replacement parts. Vern has power transformer, I do not know where you would get 2 out put transformers?

Best
Darrell

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:22 pm
by Ron Rich
Guy's,
In the late 60's, the distrib I worked for would get "fresh" flood damaged phono's in for restoration, on an almost yearly basis.
Our procedure, for what it's worth, was to remove components and "power wash" the cabinet ( watch out for silk-screened glass !). On the amp/TSU, we would remove the transformers ( a PIA--for sure), open them up, and at least rinse them with clear water. We would then stick them in an oven for at least two days, at about 100 degrees F. Washing the amp and TSU, we were very careful not to use a high pressure, as if that was done, the "silk screen" would wash away--but be sure to wash all "sockets" well. The mech.would be washed as I state in my mech guide, if needed, and the keyboard would also be washed and re-lubed if it had been wet---
As for output transformers--Vern did have some awhile back--Don't know his stock today--???
Ron Rich

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:22 pm
by Ron Rich
Guy's,
In the late 60's, the distrib I worked for would get "fresh" flood damaged phono's in for restoration, on an almost yearly basis.
Our procedure, for what it's worth, was to remove components and "power wash" the cabinet ( watch out for silk-screened glass !). On the amp/TSU, we would remove the transformers ( a PIA--for sure), open them up, and at least rinse them with clear water. We would then stick them in an oven for at least two days, at about 100 degrees F. Washing the amp and TSU, we were very careful not to use a high pressure, as if that was done, the "silk screen" would wash away--but be sure to wash all "sockets" well. The mech.would be washed as I state in my mech guide, if needed, and the keyboard would also be washed and re-lubed if it had been wet---
As for output transformers--Vern did have some awhile back--Don't know his stock today--???
Ron Rich

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:37 pm
by ds100h
A few questions, would the mech fit and work in my DS160's, if needed?
After cleaning, what type of lubrication is used on the key board?

Best
Darrell

Re: Seeburg 222 Under Water

Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 2:47 am
by Ron Rich
Darrell,
Same mech--different color, and some "ginger bread"---
Same as used everywhere else in the phono---Dixon # 3 Graphite Grease, or CRC/ Stay-Lube Molly-Graph on all "sliding points" (NOT CONTACTS !) and #20 oil on pivot points. REMOVE latch bar solenoid/play meter before washing -
Ron Rich