Rock-Ola Regis 1485 Mechanism Question

I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems with an old Rock-Ola Regis (Model 1485), which belongs to one of my neighbors. The original symptom is that the cancel coil(s) stay on for the entire duration of the record playing cycle. (and they get HOT!) Also the machine is stopping as if losing power to all systems during the course of the cancel coil being on when it shouldn’t be.
I have narrowed the problem down to the following: At the end of the first 1/2 of the gripper cycle, when the gripper motor is supposed to slow down just prior to set-down of the tone arm to begin playing, the gripper motor slows down just as it is supposed to, but then does not stay on slow quite long enough for micro switch #3 to trip the “interlock release coil” and thereby shut off the reset coil. I also do not believe that the “short” is being applied to the gripper motor armature at the end (Page 48 of the instruction manual, Sequence 8 ). It appears that current is being interrupted to the gripper motor early, and then the motor coasts to a stop -- just short of tripping micro #3. If I manually turn the armature of the gripper motor four or five turns more, micro #3 trips and then the interlock release coil trips, turning off the reset coil, and the record plays normally. (and the machine does not "stop" abnormally). It is strange I think, that even before I do the manual turning, the mute switch is already in play mode and not mute, and it seems from the book that if the interlock release is not tripped, then neither should the mute switch be. Hmm. . .maybe the mute switch never mutes. . .which would then have nothing to do with the original problem.
Then the second half of the cycle proceeds just as it should at the end of the record, or with the manual cancel switch. Even so, I do not believe there is ever a “short” applied to the gripper armature, but not sure if there is supposed to be when completing the cycle by hand-turning the armature. I have checked the timing of the micro-cams using the procedure outlined in the service manual and have the two turns of free play at the beginning in relation to the stop mentioned in the book. Micro #1 is in the center of the bottom of the depression in the cam at this point, and indeed, this was right, or very close when I started. But at the halfway point (record playing), I am a dozen or more turns from the other stop.
The owner said this problem came on gradually, the machine only doing it once in a while, but as time went on, it became more and more frequent, until now it happens at every cycle.
Has anyone got a suggestion of where I should look next? Is this some classic common problem or something weird? The relays in the control box look as if they are working properly, once Micro #3 is manually activated, but I know switches do not always work, even if they look good. Not being too experienced with these older boxes, I am semi-stumped. I would like to help this fellow out, if I can. He’s owned the box since it came out of a local bar 35 years ago -- they bought it new, so it is a nice piece of local history, and when it does play, it sounds decent, amp and speakers seem fairly clear and strong. It’s also in pretty nice physical condition. Thanks for your help.
Larry Baecht, Western Montana, USA
E-mail: larry@piprinting.com
Voice (406) 821-3513
Fax (406) 821-4681

Larry,
I would start by checking the Micro Switches--sounds as if one (or more) is either failing, or marginally adjusted.
Ron Rich

Hello, Ron:
Thank you for the prompt reply. I was initially suspicious of those switches as well, but other than the adjustment I have already covered from the manual I have, I don't have other info on how to adjust and check. So . . . The manual I have is the "Parts manual, Instructions & Installation," from Victory Glass/AMR Publishing. I can't see where this procedure is covered in that manual. It sounds as though I will need to get a service and repair manual, or at least a tech bulletin explaining the exact step-by-step procedure for testing and adjusting back to factory defaults those switches, especially since we already "messed" with it. (Sorry). Can I obtain/purchase these documents from you, or can you suggest a good source? Also, if it is determined that I have a failing switch, are these available? Thank you for your help.
Larry

Hi Larry,
The service manual should give you the "adjustment info", but not the testing info--simple--use a GOOD analog meter set on "X-1", slowly activate the switch--there should positive contact, without any signs of "bounce".
I do not re-call which type of switches were installed in that model--some are NLA, so you just have to hunt up repro's, or good used ones--for the switches, and books, see above--"announcements--where to find" ---suppliers listed there--
Ron Rich

Thanks, Ron:
I have inquired at Victory Glass about a Service and Repair Manual, and as soon as we make sure we have the right one I will order it -- then off to my neighbor's for another session. I was kind of hoping that there would be a comprehensive technical explanation someplace that would explain in detail: when switches are on and off (or A and B if they are double throw) and exactly what each one does. Maybe it will be in the new manual. I may not get back to you for a few days while I am getting the manual and setting up a time to work on the machine. Thank You again, I will keep you posted.
Lawrence Baecht