Wurlitzer Selection Buttons Sticking

"Gordo" I don't have a schematic for the 3300, but Wurlitzer essentially wired the latch solenoid and select lamp in parallel. Though each got powered through different dropping resistors, the power came from the same place. So, if that remains true here a non-functioning light but with a functioning latch coil will be either the resistor, or the socket itself (I've had this happen on several Seeburgs).

Rob/NYC

Hi,

I have looked at the schematic and it appears to run one wire from the globe back to the bank of switches that close, when the latch bar solenoid pulls in.

I guess I will try there first. Not sure where the earth runs from.

The manual says the resistor is 175 ohms but does not tell me the watts. I guess I could try 5 Watts?

I don't think it is a major fault, I just am unsure where to start.

Thanks again for your advice.

Regards

Gordo (from Australia)

"Gordo" both resistors are 5w. Simple tracing will find this problem.

You mentioned that the lamp(s) had to come from USA, ironically, they probably were made in China.

Rob

Hi,

I have resurrected this post because (after about 2 years) the letter buttons have started sticking once again. This is a Wurlitzer 3300 owned by some friends.

So, I followed the advice provided previously, but unfortunately no improvement.

The letter buttons still stick. The numbers are OK.

Now for the odd thing. If I raise the upper door of the juke, the buttons unstick themselves. If I select letter buttons when the lid is raised, they work fine, no sticking and they are crisp and clean to select. If I power off, they remain stuck.

The problem occurs when I get the lid down to 2-3 inches from closing. I looked for anything binding against the selectors but see nothing.

Anyone have any ideas what I can try?

Kind Regards

Gordon.

Hi Gordon,
Going WAY back in my memory--I saw this happen once--
We both know it's mechanical--I think that this was one of the models that WurliTzer used the white hard plastic cover, on the keyboard--If I recall correctly, the one I had problems with, had the cover installed incorrectly. This would cause a bind, when the door was closed-- If missing, I would assume that the cable was being "flexed" in such a way as to cause this bind ??
Ron Rich

Can you post a photo of the backside of the keyboard on this jukebox?

If it's like the last 2000 I worked on, there are 2 latches on the button side of the keyboard. The latches need to be timed right with both the letter and number side of the keyboard. The latch lever needs to be timed just right with the lockout gate. ALONG WITH THAT - you also have to make sure that on the back side of the keyboard, where the locking latches are, that the pawl and sear (not sure if I have the right terminology) need to engage/disengage properly. They need to be de-gunked and lubricated. The 2000 I worked on runs like a fine tuned gun after I went through those lockups.

If you can get us a picture, I can circle just what I'm talking about. If this keyboard is a different design (I've never seen one) then disregard my post above.

Hi All,

Thanks for your advice, I have moved forward.

I finally managed to get a chance to look at this juke again. It's at a friends home and he has been unwell and in hospital.

I have worked out that the problem that has been making the selection buttons stick is the upper door.

The piano hinge along the top has lost some screws on one side, and this causes the upper door to 'twist'" when closed. This was jamming the selection buttons.

To (temporarily) fix the problem I removed one of the large springs attached to the door. This stopped the door from lifting up (when closed) and therefore freed the sticking selection buttons.

So, a temporary fix is OK for now. But, I am having trouble working out how to remove the upper door to fix the hinge permanently.

Has anyone removed one of these before? They must weight a ton and I cannot work out how to remove it.

Any advice or tips?

Kind regards

Gordon.