I am looking for an instruction manual or similar document for a Phonocord. I have one that seems to be complete, but am having trouble verifying how to use it to cut recordings.
Thanks.
Packard Bell Phonocord
Electrically amplified phonographs or radio/phonographs and related components (approx. 1928-1990).
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Record-changer
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I used to have a similar unit made by Stewart-Warner. A few tips.
- There are two kinds of disc recorders. You need to find out which kind you have:
1. Units with a leadscrew to drive the recording arm toward the spindle. They use ungrooved blanks.
2. Units which use pregrooved recording blanks to move the recording arm. On some of these, the playing arm is also the recording arm.
Make sure you have the correct blanks.
2. The recording head is piezoelectric. They can fail over time due to exposure to moisture.
3. You will have to waste a blank calibrating the leadscrew recording arm. On the leadscrew units, a screw adjusts cutting depth. The correct adjustment produces a "chip" of cut acetate the thickness of a human hair.
If you use acetate-coated aluminum blanks, make sure the recording stylus never touches the aluminum. It will quickly destroy the stylus.
4. Make sure you use the offset drive pin in the side hole in the turntable and blank, to keep the recording turning at the correct speed.
5. Carbon steel recording styli last for one side. Diamond ones are good for about 50 sides. But some of the pregrooved ones use a standard steel playback needle, which lasts for one side.
6. I used an artist's brush to direct the line of chip toward the label area, to keep the recording stylus from "tripping" over the line of chip (making a noise).
7. The arm will stop feeding at a certain point. If you don't stop cutting then, the locked groove so produced will have multiple sounds on it.
8. There is usually a button which enables the recording arm. Another button disconnects the speaker so you can record from a microphone.
- There are two kinds of disc recorders. You need to find out which kind you have:
1. Units with a leadscrew to drive the recording arm toward the spindle. They use ungrooved blanks.
2. Units which use pregrooved recording blanks to move the recording arm. On some of these, the playing arm is also the recording arm.
Make sure you have the correct blanks.
2. The recording head is piezoelectric. They can fail over time due to exposure to moisture.
3. You will have to waste a blank calibrating the leadscrew recording arm. On the leadscrew units, a screw adjusts cutting depth. The correct adjustment produces a "chip" of cut acetate the thickness of a human hair.
If you use acetate-coated aluminum blanks, make sure the recording stylus never touches the aluminum. It will quickly destroy the stylus.
4. Make sure you use the offset drive pin in the side hole in the turntable and blank, to keep the recording turning at the correct speed.
5. Carbon steel recording styli last for one side. Diamond ones are good for about 50 sides. But some of the pregrooved ones use a standard steel playback needle, which lasts for one side.
6. I used an artist's brush to direct the line of chip toward the label area, to keep the recording stylus from "tripping" over the line of chip (making a noise).
7. The arm will stop feeding at a certain point. If you don't stop cutting then, the locked groove so produced will have multiple sounds on it.
8. There is usually a button which enables the recording arm. Another button disconnects the speaker so you can record from a microphone.
I have a Packard-Bell Phonocord, Model 130PR for sale. You can record a record, play records, it has different kinds of radios, like a short wave, it has a compartment on the bottom and a speaker opposite. I have the paper work that came with it. I can send you some pictures if you are interested. I'm asking $200
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