Rowe "Monte Carlo" help needed

Kent,
Try this first--un-plug the AC to the amp, still have "hum"--If so, it's probably a lamp ballast. If not, it's internal in the amp, and should not be used till it's repaired, due to possibility of further damage. Ron Rich

Ron, I unpluged it and it went away......Put my other one in and rewired it the correct way for the speakers. Going to take this unit back to the boss and let him enjoy it. SOUNDS GREAT!! Been listening to it all night now.

THANKS AGAIN!!!!!

Well CRAP!! After playing this for the last hour and a half constantly. It's starting to mess up again..................................... Now most times when you make a selection, they latch in and the search motor runs, the pin is pushed, the magazine rotates maybe half a revolution and then stops................I'm thinking that since it doesn't make a full revolution that it's the motor that turns the magazine. I tested this theory by choosing the same letter number combo several times. Each time the magazine would rotate further along until it got to the selection and then it would play. I was going to stop tomorrow and get some 20w nd oil and lube everything before I delivered it. Does my theory sound likely to you?

Kent,
I do not recall how the motor power on/off was achieved on that model, but if it was the same as the earlier models, it depends on a rubber (friction) roller in the "scan unit". That problem is typical on the older units, and the only solution that works for me is to replace the rubber ( obtainable only from "Stamann" in Germany, {see "where to find--" above} to the best of my knowledge). I would not think the motor caused this--although it SHOULD be oiled ! Ron Rich

Ron & Kent, the scan assembly on these is different than the older 50's era changers.

The scan is geared and connected to the same gear that turns the basket. The first driven gear in the scan unit turns a cog that winds up a white wheel and stretches a spring.

The scan unit is on the upper right side of the mech pretty much dead center between the search unit and basket.

If you are not getting a proper complete rotation of the basket, try lifting the white gear -the one with the spring on it, so that it snaps back to the position that starts a scan.

The basket should turn slightly more than one rev and come to a stop. If the mech does not give a full scan function it is possible that the basket motor has a stripped fiber gear. This is one reason why you don't run these w/out first giving a thorough lubrication to all motors. One confirming symptom with be a sort of "razzing" sound and jerky basket action.

Another area is a binding scan assembly itself. When you manually trip the scan by lifting the white gear is should be pulled all the way (clockwise IIRC) to the limit of it's travel by the spring. The micro switch in that assembly may also be defective.

Not directly related to your problem:

The TI went to the use of only one coil to pull the scan ratchet and I found that this was somewhat unreliable. Sometimes the basket would not start. I replaced the single coil with an older twin coil and that solved the issue permanently.

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It took me three hours and ten minutes to get through the three lines needed to vote here on the upper east side of Manhattan.

Compared to what others are dealing with I'll not complain.

Rob in Blue Manhattan.

Rob, You have found my problem. Once a selection is made the white scan wheel won't full release . It bumps and moves it but not enough to allow the wheel to unwind. Therefore when a selection is made the basket only travels till it is fully wound and then stops. What should I do on this? Stay tuned.............

Well I adjusted the magnet height several times. I changed out the magnet to the one off the other basket assembly. No continuous change. Sometimes it will reset properly. So I must have a voltage issue to the magnet.

I put my fluke meter on the coil to see if I was getting voltage to the magnet, and I was. Unfortunately it was so fast that I couldn't get a good reading on it to see what it was. How can I obtain one of the dual coils to fix this problem? That seems to be the only thing holding me up on getting this unit out of here.

If the machine is punching the pin reliably I suggest voltage is not a problem.

The likely issue is that the gear is binding either due to gunk in the bearing or the plastic gear swelling and squeezing the shaft it is mounted on.

When you manually lift the metal plate that the coil would normally attract, the white wheel should instantly snap all the way to an unwound position.

Rob/NYC

I'm not sure how you all stay sane working on these things..........LOL . OK took everything back aprt and cleaned everything really good. Lubed it with just a tad bit of oil. Very smooth! Readjusted the magnet, and put it all back together. Played it for about 50 songs and it started to mess up again. Selection would drop in as it should. The S1 sprag bumps as the search unit goes around. S2 never drops in and the search unit just keeps spinning. I removed the relay and changed it out to another used one that I had. Started to work again. At this point I want to purchase 2 new relays for this jukebox so I know that there are no problems with the relays. Paqrt number 200-12751. Where can I get these? I do not see them on any of the sites that are listed on this site.

Hello Kentmoore,

I hope you did not use to much lubrication on that mechanism, I find that this will cause you more problems than it will solve.

With regards to the problem you are now having I suggest that you you clean the open relay contacts on S1 & S2 on the search unit with a paper taper pulled through the contacts and then check the contacts for mechanical operation on make and break. I would also do the same on the relays on the button bank (keyboard).

The best way to check the operation of the search unit is to remove it from the mechanism so you can see that the pins have all pushed out when selected (as per your selections) I tend to test as A1, C2, E3 etc on the A sides and then do the same on the B sides.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Hi All,
I somewhat have to expand on the above--Relay contacts ( as well as any other type contacts) must be cleaned, and "inspected". If the contact points have "pitted", or "burned", they must be "filed", then "burnished" with a "burnishing tool", and in some cases, "re-adjusted", if you expect them to operate any length of time. The above is true for "silver" contacts, but not gold plated contacts, unless they are "pure". Gold plated contacts must be replaced, if the plating has worn off. Regardless of the material, there must also be enough "meat" left to carry the current. Ron Rich

Not sure where to turn on this jukebox..... Went to Kirby Risk today and bought a burnishing tool. Took the S1 and S2 relays apart and checked them out again. I had ran paper thru them numerous times before as well as the ones for the selector buttons. After I took them completely apart I noticed that the center points for the S2 relay in the 3 high stack had a pretty bad pit in it. I looked at the spare assembly I had and it wasn't as bad. I removed it from the spare and resoldered it into the one I need. While it was out I filed it down with a points file and rebunished it. Reassembled it, and reset to the manual specs. I touched up all that needed it. Also made sure that when I set them they made and broke at the correct position. After reinstilation it worked perfect for about 50 selections again. Then it threw a little fit and wouldn't operate again. It was just like last time, S1 would bump in and then the search unit would just spin and spin and S2 never would write in. I made about 10 selections while it was this way. After it would make about 5 revolutions I would use the inside switch and move it to the scan position for just a second and put it back up in the on position. As soon as I moved the switch to scan it would reset the system letting me make another selection. After about 10 times of doing this it started to function properly again for about another 50 selections. then it wouls start the whole process over again. I am at my whits end on this thing..........Ideas or sugestions appreciated!!

Hello Kentmoore,

I would check out the R2 relay on the search unit for operation and replace it if is the plug in type, if the soldered in version check out all the contacts. It needs S1 contacts 1 & 2 closed to operate and pull in S2 on the search unit.

I would also check that the search unit circuit board does not have any cracks in the tracks and that the wipers both front and back are adjusted correctly.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK