seeburg std-2 lighting

i just finished my seeburg std-2 restore, turned out awesome!!! thank you ron rich for your help. now my lighting is odd. i replaced all the gaskets between the glass and mirror boxes, and replace all the 2182 bulb as only 8 worked out of the whole juke. i used a 6 volt latern battery for my flashlight to test bulbs outside the machine(using jumper wires), now i have the lights plugged directly into the power supply so they would be on solid, but they are a low amber like mood lighting, almost exactally the way they looked running off the battery. i hooked up the sequencer and the same thing only "twinkling". are the lights suppose to be bright white or the amber dim color? the voltage should be 24 volt AC at the transform, right? there are no shorts in the wiring or sockets, i was very through and insulted the terminals. any advice?

larry b

Hi Larry,
Ain't they fun to change ?? lol--
Going back into my great, but not too long memory, some 35 or so years ago, I built myself a test jig for the sequencer (which has "up and walked away" from me now). It seems that the lamp is a 14 volt bulb, and the sequencer supplies between eight to ten volts, to each string at the top of each pulse. The above fact, and the fact, that on a STD-2, you are looking at the lamp through a one way mirror, tends to make them appear amber, rather than white. Without seeing your phono, I would guess that it is as it should be--they did tend to vary, slightly in brilliance, even when new-- Ron Rich

ok then, i knew the bulbs were 14 volt and thought they would be supplied 14 volts, but if you say that they are only being supplied 8-10 volts then i'm good!

next question is so the seeburgs with the red "tamp"cap fuses, is there any harm in switching them to a standard everyday fuse. i noticed on the ss-160 some have resistors built inside them and others have wound coils. do they matter?

Larry,
The "Red Caps" (Buss GMQ series fuses) were demanded by UL in order to get approval. Seeburg fought that for years, till finally, UL got some new engineers who agreed that only "out side" (of the cabinet) items, such as wall boxes, need to have "non-tamperable" fuses--same rules as were used up till about 1960--- As for changing them--why--those fuses should not be "blowing". They can be switched to "standard" fuse posts, but you will need to enlarge the mounting hole. I do it occasionally, when I do not have a correct size "Red Caps".
I have seen resistors inside of "standard" fuses also. I think the resistors/coils were just variations Buss made from time to time,
which IMHO, are of no importance. Ron Rich

i was just wondering for future reference, thanks ron.