Phonoland

Donald,
Those Microswitches do not "go out of adjustment"--but what does happen to them is that they have what's called "bounce", by some. The NC contacts open prematurely, and then close back up for milliseconds as the actuator is pushed. Also The NO contacts will close, then open, then close again as the actuator is moving. Replacement of the switch is the suggested "cure"- -- although in an emergency, I have successfully opened. and cleaned them--There is also the old "burn them" trick--Put a 100 watt lamp across the switch and actuate it till it either does not "flicker" or it burns up--one of the two always happens !
As for the Allen screw--if it is held in a "Nyloc" nut, they tend to weld to the screw--so what you will need to do is wiggle the screw in both directions till it frees itself--or snaps off--sorry--- Ron Rich

I meant to say you need to test the micro switches, while holding the stop switch assembly in your hand. You need to make sure the switch actually activates when it is activated. A old style light bulb tested is needed.

After testing the Rowe Stopping Switch it looks like I have bouncing contacts causing the skipped record. There are large numbers of microswitches out there. Where can I purchase a new or used replacement that will have the same ratings and physical dimensions as the original?

The Stopping switch is item #7 on page PC-58 and Rowe part number 200-10734.

Thank you.
Donald

Donald,
Where are you located ?
Ron Rich

Ron,

I am in Kokomo, Indiana just north of Indianapolis. Address available on request.

Thanks
Donald

Donald,
Since this forum is world-wide, it would help if you, and all, would allow that info to be posted along with each post.
If you can purchase from Granger ( You must have a "business") they will have a replacement switch, as it's a "standard" Microswitch. If not, the nearest Rowe AMi distributor should stock this item, under the Rowe part number. Ron Rich

I fix the Rowe Diplomat Jukebox skipped record problem.

I purchased two Honeywell microswitches (V7-1B17D8) from Newark Electronics. They were only $2 each. I first replaced the Stop Switch without changing the adjustment. It was easy to remove the Selection Assembly giving access to the switch and its soldered connections. This did not fix the problem.

So I had to dive into the C2 Cam Switch. This was a bigger job, as I did not want to go through all the adjustments to realign the system.

I removed the total changer assemble to the workbench. I made a quick schematic of the switches wiring colors and removed the outer switch plate, partially removed the cam but maintained its position and loosened the inside switch plate. This allowed me to get the C2 switch out and replace it using the old screw back mounting plate. I did have to adjust C2 but it was easy to do by pivoting the switch around one mounting screw.

I put everything back together and everything works perfectly. The extra pulse seen on the scope is gone.

Thanks to all who contributed advice.

Donald
Kokomo, IN

Donald,
Just as I thought--the old "switch bounce" problem--Long story about that--short version, a "switch company executive (engineer)" wound up buying me dinner over that once--he claimed "It can't happen-----" I proved to him that it could, even with brand new ones---
Glad you fixed it--and thanks for the update ! Ron Rich