Phonoland

Looking to replace the old oil filled 5mfd 300v capacitor in my receiver as I am getting a wall unit soon.

What type & size of capacitor would you recommend?

Since the late 1980s I've used ganged mylar caps. Five 1mfd@250 volts each. Those are the blue ones.

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... sort=2&o=0

Rob

Thank you...
Curious, why would you use 5 1uf mylar caps instead on using 1 5uf 600v electrolytic radial cap?

I would say Price, Space-Saving, and Reliability were the reasons.

A similar but off topic conversation... What is the difference between Metal-Foil Polypropylene Film capacitors and Metalized Polyester Film capacitors?

Ron,
"Granger" sells the "oil filled cap" for under $10.00--I find that's "easier"--
Ron Rich

rvalkenburg wrote:Thank you...
Curious, why would you use 5 1uf mylar caps instead on using 1 5uf 600v electrolytic radial cap?

What happened is that in January 1988 I was getting a TSR-3 ready to convert my V and ready it for service. The original 5mfd was open and I couldn't see any point in try to find a mounting position for the modern type replacements. I had a bunch of 10@160v put two back-to-back and stepper worked.

Once it was on location I did notice that it would occasionally miscount. I measured the two caps and found that it was reading around 6.2mfd . I have (another) bunch of mylar 1@250 and five of them was exactly 5.1mfd. Put them in and over a million plays later that stepper is still going strong.

I made similar mistake 4 years ago when I used a "5" mfd@300. Stepper was inaccurate on location. Measured the cap and found close to 7mfd.

Even though i don't use 2050s any more, the basic design of that stepper circuit requires an accurate cap in that position. Mylar caps are small and this helps in mounting them. They also stay accurate.

Rob

Ron Rich wrote:Ron,
"Granger" sells the "oil filled cap" for under $10.00--I find that's "easier"--
Ron Rich

I've spotted several of those value capacitors in the Grainger catalog that sell between $6.50 and $9.00

So I am assuming this would be the appropriate replacement for the old oil filled cap...
http://www.grainger.com/product/PROLINE ... =P2IDP2PCP

Question or more looking for suggestions as to how you would mount that under the receiver so its not free to move.

Grainger sells a mounting kit # 2MEV1 for those capacitors:

http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON- ... tors-2MEV1

Guys,
I use the "Dayton brand" unit here--less expensive, and never have had a problem with it--I have had problems with "Mexican built" units !!
As for mounting--I just stick some "Velcro" on it, and find a spot it will fit. Ron Rich

I also used the Dayton (came in my FridayNightJukebox Kit) and some industrial velcro I had lying around. I just snipped the entire lead off the original cap and soldered them on.

Thank you everyone for your help... Going to the local Grainger tomorrow and picking up one of the Dayton caps to replace the old oil filled cap in the receiver.
http://www.grainger.com/product/2MDV4?c ... d=IDPRRZ13

With that, the only original capacitor left would be my motor run cap on the mechanism. Being that it is original as well I would assume this should be replaced. Does anyone not only have a recomendation for a replacement cap (1.0-1.4 mfd 275 VAC), but also a wiring spec for the replacement connectivity? Or should I not bother replacing this cap at all?

Hi Ron,
The failure rate on the motor run cap is very low--and they are available "new", if needed (check suppliers listed above !) . I don't replace them till they fail--but I do stock all three type---Ron Rich