Phonoland

Matt, I'm so glad you have descended from on-high to enlighten us plebes.

if you have perused the forum at-all you'll note that we do NOT countenance tinkering, nor 'magic" cures.

Facts are that while out of tolerance resistors will often impair performance and can in certain cases, lead to damage (bias supplies and regulator ckts) leaky and shorted capacitors can destroy devices and in older, less protected circuits, lead to fires.

To-date I have been involved in the restoration of three RCA and Ampex 2" Quad VTR's. While this a is a whole different level than jukeboxes and radios, the problems of shorted and leaky capacitors have led to similar and expensive damage.

Rest easy. Ron, myself and several others here do not give bad advice and will correct those that do.

Rob/NYC

Guys

I appreciate your responses. The resistor in the picture checks out at 3 OHMS. It appears Ron may be the closest as the resistor is attached to the rear of the ccu.

Parts list does not show it to be 4 watts, so Ron how do you know it is 4 watts?

Rob what made you think it was 10 watts?

Matt you did not venture a guess at what the watts would be, why not?

Soooo when the manufacturer fails to list thw watts on th resistor and the vendor that places the resistor in it's product fails to list the wattage there apparently is no sure fire way to determine what the correct wattage is. Seems like a poor way to do business to me.

Best
Darrell

Darrell, if Ron says 4 watt -go with that, 5 watt being the most likely available.. It is hard to judge strictly from a photo. Do you have any reason to change it?

Rob

ds100h wrote:Guys

I appreciate your responses. The resistor in the picture checks out at 3 OHMS. It appears Ron may be the closest as the resistor is attached to the rear of the ccu.

Parts list does not show it to be 4 watts, so Ron how do you know it is 4 watts?

Rob what made you think it was 10 watts?

Matt you did not venture a guess at what the watts would be, why not?

So, ooo when the manufacturer fails to list thw watts on th resistor and the vendor that places the resistor in it's product fails to list the wattage there apparently is no sure fire way to determine what the correct wattage is. Seems like a poor way to do business to me.

Best
Darrell

The wattage rating of resistors is easily determined by the formulas used in Ohms Law, something elementary to us technicians.
And having a schematic and proper tools on hand also makes things easy.
But of course, no one wants to learn Ohm Laws, they just want the thing to work.
So hand-holding and diaper changing is the usual case.

Rob

This all started as I was going to buy a supply of spare parts for the two Seeburg "As" I have, including the caps needed to recap the reciver and the amp. No I do not need to change the one in the picture as it is right at
3 OHMS.

Matt
Sorry to be so much lower than you, please leave my diaper alone and please do not hold my hand. I was of the opinon that this board was a good place to exchange ideas with like minded people, some with a high degree of skills and some in the process of learning. Rob you come across as a bitter individual rather than a happy person that is willing to share their knowlege with others(unless you make a profit doing so), as well as in your mind you are to smart to even talk to people on this board. I hope some day you learn to be happy and content rather than making fun of people that have less skills than you in a specified field. Truth be known, I would venture a guess that there are numerous fields that you lack the know how to accomplish any thing of real substance. I do want to thank you for bringing up OHM's law as I think that is the answer on how you would be able to determne the needed wattage on an umarked resistor. I intend to obain a copy of OHM's law and see if I understand it.

Best
Darrell

All old jukebox amps benefit from a recap. You don't have to be a "tech" to do it. I'm not a tech. I have been one of those dumb DIYer's for 35 years. Most of these are simple circuits. The average person can fix most problems. Resistors that have drifted a bit seldom cause a problem unless they are in a bias circuit. Many manuals tell you how to adjust bias voltage anyway. If not, you can probably learn how pretty fast. Like most trades people in them try to make the skills seem rare, hard to learn and valuable. It is a skill. A LEARNED habit. A learned habit that THEY learned from others. Anyone can learn it. To be a good person, a good tech will share his knowledge and help others, instead of holding his cards so close to the vest. A good tech doesn't have to constantly be blowing his horn and telling everybody how great and smart he is.

Hi Eddie,
I somewhat dis-agree with the statement that "All old amps benefit---". IMHO, this depends on how old, and which type of caps were used.
I tend to believe that experience here should determine what needs to be done. Some of the "cap kit sellers", tend to hype a cap kit as THE solution, to all problems, amp connected. I often find other problems, that have nothing to do with caps. Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Hi Eddie,
I somewhat dis-agree with the statement that "All old amps benefit---". IMHO, this depends on how old, and which type of caps were used.
I tend to believe that experience here should determine what needs to be done. Some of the "cap kit sellers", tend to hype a cap kit as THE solution, to all problems, amp connected. I often find other problems, that have nothing to do with caps. Ron Rich

I agree with you, Ron.
All this chatter over magic bullets and wonder capacitors doesn't begin to replace the tried-and-true basics of educated electronic servicing.
And I've heard it so much, the "it's not rocket science" argument, enough to give me gas already.
To argue that theory is not required in servicing is nonsense sputtered all over the internet by scorned individuals that won't take the time to learn these mandatory basics.
I've spent the time, went the length, to educate myself through proper schooling - and reaped the benefits for the past couple of decades.
That's what sets me apart from mere "tinkering", because I know and can perform what's needed and come out sucessfully.
I don't feel sorry for that, and certainly my customers don't either.

This is in the jukebox section. Most of the jukes talked about here are decades old. A cap has a finite life. From the time it is manufactured, it degrades. Especially electrolytics. An old cap will function fine in many applications because the value wasn't critical to begin with. Same with resistors. I fail to see where replacing a 50 year old cap with a new cap of higher quality could be a bad thing. Maybe a TECH can explain that. Whether you gain your knowledge thru experience and a mentor or you paid a tuition for it comes down to the same thing. It came from someone else. Share it. I promise you it will not cost you one thin dime. Probably will gain you business. If not business....respect. Like I said, a good tech will help and educate. Not be rude and condescending. No, a jukebox amp is NOT rocket science, If it is, I sure want to know what part of it is. Theory is great. Learning theory will make you be better at servicing. But let's be real, you don't have to be a licensed electrician to change a receptacle or a light bulb. You don't have to be a master mechanic to change a battery or spark plugs.

Hi Eddie,
I am not saying that replacing a 50 year old cap is bad--just that "some people" have no way to tell if the cap is 50, 60, 70 years old, or if, in fact it is still good, no mater how old. Mostly, I am attempting to point out, that "re-capping" will not always solve a problem with the amp. It's my contention, that all problems can not be fixed, with a "cap kit". Of course, the skill level of the person doing any work, on anything, is what, IMHO, is most important. Ron Rich