Phonoland

Hi All,
I just ran across this eBay item # 350519095914. It is an offer for "Seeburg yellow wedge" needles. However, the information as to fitness, is incorrect. I attempted to contact the seller, and notify him, but when I get to the "other" section, eBay informs me that "this seller is unable to respond"--and I can go no further.
If this seller was to read the back of the package of needles he has posted, he would quickly see that the color, of the OEM needles does, in fact, matter. He says to "dis-regard" it. The package reads that these replacements are for only two needles--it gives both the Seeburg, and Pickering part numbers for them. These part numbers are specifically for the yellow (diamond) and violet (sapph) needles. These needles, if built to spec., will have an extremely short life if used in place of the green or tan/brown OEM type.
Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

I just bought some needles elsewhere on e-bay ( item number 151062983251) that have exactly the same packaging.

The advertisment says they are for a Pickering 345-03D. Have I wasted my money?

If so, where can I buy the green needles?

Looking through the web sites (at the usual sellers), it appears that no one has the green needles for sale and these yellow needles are all that are available.

Cheers

Gordo.

Gordon, don't worry about this issue. The biggest problem with copy styli is the diameter of the shank (too big, too small- no crimp) and how much flux disturbance the cantilever can produce (output).

It is possible that the copies have too little damping on the cantilever and that --may-- cause it to bottom if the existing tracking weight is too high, this alone will not affect the life of the actual stylus point.

If the arm has been properly balanced either by cutting the counterweights or adding weight to the cart you should be able to reduce the tracking force enough to accommodate any variation in these styli.

Rob/NYC

Thanks Rob,

That's good news. I only bought the cartridge because I had no luck with replacement needles for the redhead (very low volume).

How do I cut the counterweights or add weight to the cartridge?

Cheers

Gordo....

Rob, Gordo,
The "biggest problem" I have found over the years with the aftermarket yellow and violet needles is that the "shank" holding the needle itself, is too long. This results in the needle either hitting (in the case of early "B" 's) the stripper plate, or the needle brushes, or the record, when lifted, or released. Of course this will cause the needle either to "chip", and/or be dislodged. In some cases, the shank will bend, in others, it becomes "soft" and the record rides the plastic--not good for records !
I have also found some that the post that enters the cartridge is too fat. If this type is inserted, it bends the internal clips of the cartridge, so no "right sized" needle will ever stay in. Alo have found some where the shaft was too thin--needle falls out--and some where the "wedge" is incorrect, putting undo pressure on the cartridge.
I add weight to the 345-03x cartridge using an old fishing, or car tire, lead weight. I weigh both carts, and make up a lead "top" with the weight difference--flatten it to fit the 345 top, and epoxy it on--paint it black.
Ron Rich

Thanks again for your advice.

So, you actually add weight to the cartridge by putting lead right on top of the cartridge?

Thanks for the tip, I thought I should reduce cartridge weight to reduce tracking force (this shows that I have a lot to learn about jukeboxes).

Regards

Gordo.

Gordo wrote:ow do I cut the counterweights or add weight to the cartridge?

Gordon, the "formula" for cutting the weights for this cart is to cut/grind down the fixed weight to a small "V" shape -leaving just enough to solidly hold the screws that are attached to it.

For the adjustable weight I cut it down to the point where it is essentially square with a bout a quarter inch of the original rounded edges remaining. You might just try large washers held in between two bolts as a a sub for cutting the adjustable weight.

You are right that reducing the total weight of the arm & cart is desirable but, here the total reduction in mass does not affect what would be vertical mass in a normal arm.

I chose this as opposed to just adding weight to the cart because these machines were going into commercial service and I'm a bit dubious about glue in those situations. A bit of habit was involved too as this was how I'd come up with a way of "Gepetto-ing" the newer arms in the older machines back in the mid-eighties.

For home use, Ron's suggestion might be more practical.

Rob

Hi Rob,
I once worked for a (great) gent that kept giving me the worst job, over and over--I finally axked him why he did not assign anyone else to it--His answer has rung in my ears for over 40 years --"Find the layzest guy in the shop, give him the hardest job, and he will find an easier/faster/better, way to do it".
I did the cut-down weight a few times, found that the added weight worked just as well, with 1/4 the effort.
I too share your concern about "glue"--but, so far as I know, in over 20 years,none have fallen off---
Then I get to the "scary part"--Buildings are glued together ( "Plywood"/MDF) and "worse-er" of all, IMHO, new airplanes are "GLUED" together--no more rivets !! Wonder when the feds will determine that "warning signs" shall be placed on them about "glue fumes"???--the state of CA, requires such a sign on every new car today ! Ron Rich