HF100R Latch Solonoid

Can someone tell me, using a volt/ohm meter, what you should read across the terminals of the latch solonoid in the HF100R? If it is disconnected and you place your leads across the terminals, should you read an open, partial short, or solid short? Also, if you read each side to ground, should there be any reading?

Readings vary depending on the brand of solenoid, and apparently by production run. With the wires dis-connected, they run between 2.5 to 6 ohms. With the wires dis-connected you should never get any reading from either "post" to the frame (ground). If you are seeing a reading there, you have a shorted solenoid. Ron Rich

Thanks Ron. I am going to replace the solonoid. When I got it, there were a multitude of problems, but I have everything working except the selections. Among other things, I have cleaned a lot of the contacts, replaced any defective tubes, replaced a defective power cord, repaired the connection from the tone arm, etc.

I am now at the point of trying to fix the selection process. It will not select by using the buttons. The buttons will not lock when pressed and the select light will not light. After more checking, I find I have no power to the latch solonoid on either post. It appears the solonoid is a "home made" component. It probably worked at one time, but I think it had stuck sometime and gotten very hot. When I removed the tube covering the 2 wires going to the solonoid (just outside of the tied wiring harness) I found the wires had gotten hot and melted togeather. I repaired them at that spot. Also, I found where several wires had gotten very hot in the selection receiver and burned. I replaced each of them. I assume all of that was from the solonoid sticking and getting hot.

I am now trying to find why I do not have 24v AC to the latch solonoid. It appears the unit has been re-capped very recently. (I think probably at that time, someone made a solonoid for it). While I am waiting for the new solonoid, I am trying to fix the power problem. Do you have any suggestions for me to try to locate the problem?

You are welcome--
What you are going to need to do, is trace those wires from the solenoid ALL the way down, thru to the CCU, and inside the CCU.
You probably will find more burnt wiring, either inside the ES cable or inside the CCU. Check the schematic for the WSR and ES, and you will fine that the solenoid draws power directly from the transformer. Be sure all fuses are the correct size, and type !
Have fun. Ron Rich

OK Ron,
As usual, you eliminated that problem. I think I have all of the burned wires replaced now. I have power to my latch solonoid and have a select light. The letters and numbers latch and release, although there is about a 15 - 20 sec delay after you press the number before they release. Unfortunately, it still does not make the selection. I am thinking the most likely cause of the not selecting is the start and hold switch contacts - either not adjusted properly, or wrong voltage at some point. I will work on them. Just to make things more interesting, the latch solonoid is making all manner of racket. As soon as I turn on the box, it starts buzzing very loudly. I have a new solonoid ordered, so I thought I would just wait on it to address this problem. If it still buzzes with the new unit, I will have to try to trace down that problem. Unless, I misunderstand what is going on, since the letters and numbers are latching and releasing, the solonoid is operating - at least in some fashion, so I don't think that would prevent the selections from being made. Anyway, I will keep plugging and as usual appreciate any guidance you have.

Watch the CCU work as you make a selection. I suspect that the "wheel" is slow, and that it's taking that amount of time for the solenoid plunger to "return" to its un-powered position. Oiling the wheel parts with a 20 wt. ND oil will usuallly "fix" it. Work it by hand--with the power off ---to get the oil down inside it--the plunger must "snap" back".
As for not selecting---is the one amp SB fuse good? They usually blow when the action is slow--
Do you have the Service Manual ? If so, adjust the solenoid as shown in the manual--if it still is making a racket, it's probably defective. Ron Rich

Ron,
Here is where I am with this box. I have fixed a multitude of burnt wires in the Selector Assembly and the CCU, from the apparent over-heated latch solenoid. I have replaced the latch solenoid with a new unit. I have adjusted and cleaned contacts in both units, including the hold and start switches. Now, when I place a credit on the machine through either the coin switch or the credit switch on the CCU, the credit switch operates, the light burns, etc. I can then press the letters and numbers and they latch and hold. When the 2nd button is latched, I see the start switch contacts on both switches make. As soon as they make, the cancel solonoid operates and stays operated, which causes it (cancel solenoid) to buzz very loudly. The buttons stay latched and will not release, because the contacts on top of the timing relay do not operate.

I can operate these contacts by hand and the cancel solonoid will release, the buttons release and the credit wheel turns.

I have tried to trace my power feed and I have power to the timing relay switch, but the contacts on the timing relay do not operate when the selection is made. Is that most likely a defective timing relay as an open coil perhaps, or is it more likely somewhere else in either the circuit or mechanics? If it is a defective timing relay, is this a part than can be found, or will I need to change the CCU? The only other thing that makes me think of an adjustment, is before I changed the latch solenoid and cleaned and adjusted the hold/start switch contacts, although the old latch solenoid was buzzing extremely loud, the buttons would latch and hold, then after a delay would release. Now they will not release until I operate the contacts on the timing relay by hand.

Also, the 1 amp fuse blows, but I am crediting that to the timing relay not operating and causing the cancel solonoid to stick and consequently blowing the fuse. I am thinking I have to fix this problem before the fuse will stay. Is that correct, or is that more likely another issue?

Thanks for your help.

Clip the cap off the relay. Check the relay coil--should be about 400 ohms. Replace the cap with a new one if the coil is good. Also check that the "W" contact and wires, and all the contacts on the relay itself, are good. If the relay is bad, contact me off list--I have them. ( ronnnrich@yahoo.com ) Ron Rich

P.S. You are correct--that's what is causing the fuse to "blow"--just leave it out till you fix this problem. Ron Rich