Seeburg g run capacitor help please!

This is what happened the other day. I was working on a continental 2 that a guy sold me the other day. So I said I will turn on my seeburg g that I have played for years with no issues and listen to it while I work on the other everything is going good and I would cut the seeburg off and swapped out records to the to it when I ran across a good one from the continental and I would turn the seeburg back on and listen to the record and so on so I worked for a while it was getting late the seeburg was playing good when I killed the power to it. It was still playing a record at the time I do it all the time. And when I come back to my building the next day I flip the switch and it will start where the record stoped when I killed the power. Not today I hit the power switch the lights come on but no play the record is still in play mode but motor is not turning first thing I thought clean contacts. Did that same thing looked for jams nothing. I can rotate motor by hand to get the record to go back and carrage will move but the motor won't run and the motor is getting hot. So I'm thinking it could be the run capacitor. Not sure how to test it. It has three prongs one with red paint on it and the wire colors are white , gray, and blueish black wire how do I test this to see if it's good

Is the motor control (aka "play control") relay energized, and the contacts, making well ?
Ron Rich

That's the solenoid left of the capacitor we are talking about?

No--it's the RELAY, in the WSR-- Ron Rich

"Junkman" the play control relay is the one at the top left in this pic:
http://tubesound.com/wp-content/uploads ... l_caps.jpg
Note that it has only two large wires w/one pair of contacts.

Another thing to try is to flip the manual trip lever in the mech and turn the the motor shaft by hand. After a few turns the cam will raise the vertical stack of contacts. This will engage the additional section of the motor capacitor. While not enough to operate the motor through an entire change operation this added section should add some torque to the motor. If so, it will confirm that run cap is bad.
If you have a non-polarized cap of around 1 -2mfd @200 volts try placing it across the section of the existing cap on the mech. A mylar cap is fine here too.

Unfortunately, this can be a symptom of a defective motor. I've had this happen twice over the years. Hopefully it is just the cap.

Rob/NYC

Ron Rich wrote:No--it's the RELAY, in the WSR-- Ron Rich

Thanks Ron the relay is working and clean

But no go. I have a cap tester but not sure how to test and thanks rob for the pic. And I don't have another cap. Of that value to jump across any other ideas to test

Junkman,
Iffin you have a cap tester--itz EZ-- Red "dot" is the common--one side should be about 1 mfd, other side should be 1.45 mfd
DISCHARGE it prior to testing--!!! Which brand motor is installed in that phono ?
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Junkman,
Iffin you have a cap tester--itz EZ-- Red "dot" is the common--one side should be about 1 mfd, other side should be 1.45 mfd
DISCHARGE it prior to testing--!!! Which brand motor is installed in that phono ?
Ron Rich

With black led on the common with the red paint which is the white wire. And red led to gray wire that has 1.4 under it I get 1.575 then I put red led to the other wire which is black and marked 1.0 under it and it reads nothing meter just keeps scanning. The motor is a bodine Kai-42

Depending on the way the meter measures it may be necessary to disconnect the cap under test especially given that motor is a coil which can easily affect the result.

If you can identify the two sections i suggest jumping them together (be careful here) and placing the mech in play which uses only one section of the cap. It is not an accurate sub, but assuming one good section the machine should run in play mode.

Rob

I pull the cap from the machine before I tested it.

Rob-NYC wrote:Depending on the way the meter measures it may be necessary to disconnect the cap under test especially given that motor is a coil which can easily affect the result.

If you can identify the two sections i suggest jumping them together (be careful here) and placing the mech in play which uses only one section of the cap. It is not an accurate sub, but assuming one good section the machine should run in play mode.

Rob

So what your saying is when I put the cap back in from testing it. Get the mech. To cycle by hand to latch in pick up record then try jump the black wire that is not reading on the cap to the gray one on the cap that is. Just want to be sure. Thanks for your help on this Rob and Ron

Hi Junkman,
If you can not read one section--it's bad--
Easier way to "jump" sections is use an alligator clip to temporarily close the "O" contacts-- WITH the power OFF !!
However, depending on the mechanism's "condition" (proper lubrication), the motor may, or may not run with just one section of the cap ?
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Hi Junkman,
If you can not read one section--it's bad--
Easier way to "jump" sections is use an alligator clip to temporarily close the "O" contacts-- WITH the power OFF !!
However, depending on the mechanism's "condition" (proper lubrication), the motor may, or may not run with just one section of the cap ?
Ron Rich

The cap was out of the machine so I sat it back in its clamp. wires unhooked I alligator clipped the 1 side of the cap nothing then the 1.4 nothing so I reached and bumped the common wire to where it hooks onto cap and the motor took off scanning and picking up records and putting them back with no play. Just pick up and put back. So I undone the clip and hooked all wires back to the cap like they should be plunged the juke up nothing so I did the alligator clip jump from the 1.4 side to the 0 contacts with power on juke nothing happened. So if black wire is unhooked and the common is hooked up and the gray 1.4 bumps the O contacts the motor runs. So I assume the cap not the motor.

Yes, that confirms a section of the cap is bad.

Rob