Phonoland

I have a chance to purchase a Wurlitzer 1700F for $700
I know nothing about wurlitzers as all my jukes are Seeburg.
Is this model worth 700?
Thanks

Zman,
I would not do it, without at least seeing, and evaluating it ("condition, condition, condition" ?)--But, first of all -- there ain't no such model--there is a 1700, and a 1700HF. Ron Rich

Hi zman,

I have a Wurly 1700HF. Love the juke as it looks very pretty when restored.

But, I have had problems with the sound. The quality is not as clear as other jukes, but I love it anyway.

I agree with Ron on the condition, however, I live in Australia and would jump at a Wurly 1700 for $700! I paid lots more than $700 and it did not work at all when I bought it.

Good luck,

Regards

Gordo..

"Z" speaking strictly for myself -YES-.

I've owned a 1700 and three 1800s -still have one.

The 1700 was part of a bulk purchase in 1987. I'd guess I paid around $200-250 if you spread the cost among the others.

Some points to consider:

The 1700 was their first carousel mech and it still used the 15" field coil speaker. The amp MUST be rebuilt for safe operation. I can't give an exact cost since I've always done this myself, but $150- 200 which would include caps and testing would seem about right. You can do this yourself for a lot less if you feel competent.

These machines use the obsolete Cobra pickup. These seem to still be made but are expensive and will ruin stereo records. I don't know how long Cobra carts will be available. The tonearm is a design used only in the 1700-1800 so when I converted those machines to magnetic there was a fair amount of careful drilling, minor rewiring as well as adding a preamp and simple amp mods needed.

One possible trouble point on all of these old pin & coil machines is shorted/open coils. These can be rewound or replaced but it is a pain.

Another failure point are the group commoning relays. If the machine saw heavy use the insulator in these relays can punch through. When this happens one number will select in a certain group (A-B-C-D) along with whatever other group you have selected. To explain, if you select A-3 for instance, if #3 terminal has gotten grounded in another group relay it will play too.

The early RockOla 200s used the same relays in their "donut" pinwheel and it was nearly impossible to get at them. In the 1700-1800 Wurlitzers they are easily accessible in the junction box under the pin memory.

If the machine has not been played in recent days ---Do NOT plug it in---. There is a safe procedure for testing, any other method risks costly damage.

In my own purchases I simply looked for it being intact (to a degree) and looked for obvious areas of flameouts in the transformers -soot and discoloration.

Decorative parts such as the pilasters may be needed. Most of these are available as repros but quality varies.

If at all possible get seller to send pics of both exterior and interior.

I don't normally recommend a manual except when it is the collector's first purchase of a type/brand.

Always Jukin' and Victory Glass sell them. You may also be able to find downloads on the net.

The 1700 is very collectible, compact and attractive. If you tire of it, you'll have no problem selling it at least for the next 7-10 years.

Rob/NYC