Connecting remote Volume Control to my Ami Continental 1

Hello

I need direction regarding the cable to be used and the way to plug an original AMI volume/cancel remote unit.

one source says you must use sepecial cable (EBAY seller), another say its special as the potentiometer cables must be shielded (to avoid noises), and the cancel wires should be normal ones (not shielded), thus making it a rare one to find.

(I read that it must be not more than 10M)

Does any one have more info on the cable to be used with the remote unit ? can a wrong cable damage the AMP?

also where do you plug the cables to ? replace the connected cables in the AMP or plug them to the existing volume control unit ? can you leave the original volume box operative and have original+remote both working?

eitan

Eitan, I'll take these one at a time:

1) The cable need not be shielded -but if it is going to be long a shield is a good idea. You can use two typical balanced microphone cables or look around for any shielded cable w/4 conductors. No damage will result either way.

My Continentals and other AMI's all had terminal strips for the volume control -not plugs. Are you looking in the right places? The screw terminals are at the end of the preamp and pretty obvious. Connections (IIRC): Center: shield next screw out from center is arm and outside screw is the high side of the pot. Any dual 5Kohm pot will do.

The machine volume control must be disconnected for an RVC, but cancel button can remain connected.

Rob-NYC

Hi Eitan,
Do you have a mono, or stereo Conti 1 ?? As I recall the 1's are all mono, and still use the older style 35 K, two wire pot, same as used on prior models. ?? Look at your volume control attached to the cabinet rear. If a two wire style, it can be removed from the cabinet, and have the wires (plain, no shield--two, 18 gauge) extended.
---and By The Way--"Believe" only about .0001% of what "eBay sellers" say !! See the LONG topic here, in the jukebox section, called "More hopefully eBay sellers" -- Ron Rich

Do you have a mono, or stereo Conti 1 ?? As I recall the 1's are all mono, and still use the older style 35 K, two wire pot, same as used on prior models. ??

Ron, unless the foreign models are different (the pre's are much simpler so very possible) the 35K pot was last used in the R145 (6L6 based) amps in the J's. K-through Continental were 5K.

A Rowe rep mentioned that the last of the stereo J's actually used the later 6973 based amps.

Model L and on are 10K.

Rob

Thanks guys
i am unaware of the terms you just used, i.e. 18 gauge, typical balanced microphone cables etc
but i will go to the cable store...
its going to be 5meter so i will ask for 18gauge, balanced mic, 4 conductor (will check shielded option)
i hope i didnt mix to much of specifications here
eitan

Hold-on! 18 Ga is -way- larger then you need for this application.

Here is typical sort of cable that would be used for a mono Continental:

http://www.gepco.com/products/proav_cab ... l_22_F.htm

The brand is irrelevant.
Balanced audio-microphone cable refers to cable with two or more conductors inside a shield.
Gauge is specified by numbers that rise as the size of the conductors get smaller -counter intuitive, I know, but that is how it is done.

Since there is no real current involved in the audio to be carried here, the smallest gauge conductors could be used. The limiting factor is physical ruggedness so 22ga or 24ga would be fine.

BTW: Is it possible to post a pic of the amp and preamp in your machine?

Rob

Hi Eitan,
I am sorry, that was an error --I do not know why I wrote "18 ga."--- as Rob said, 22 ga. is large enough !! Ron Rich

Ok!
thanks for clarifying
it looks same cable as the one used already, the one that connects the current built in volume control, its shielded
i will get the same

my amp below are some pics - mono
I see the connection to the Preamp

Just couldn't understand how the original wire (in the manual) will use only 3 wires and connect both potentiometer and the cancel button. intend to use 2+2, not just 3.

I do need your help (this is a though one) when bringing the machine home, i noticed one of the orange wires was disconnected (see pic with arrow). it didn't seem to make a different when disconnected, but it must have a role... (couldn't find any clue in the manual).

I though it was logic to plug the lose orange to the same color inlet, i.e. with the other orange wire.
I hope i did right. Any clue here will help.

My machine is playing great now, by the way.

Eitan

Hi Eitan,
The way AMi/Rowe did volume controls is they used only a two wire system (don't recall colors on the Conti's, but later ones were red and black)--third wire (white) is for "reject button", which also is wired to the common of the volume control. Some models used a shielded wire as a "drain" ie: connected to ground (earth) ONLY, at the amp end---open, but covering the wires, all the way to the VC end ( this may not have been factory, just saw it a few times locally--perhaps it was done as that was the only wire available ??) .
No clue as to the "orange wire " ?? Ron Rich

tell me ron
when the machine is on
in standby lets say in onr hour inbetween two selection is it ok that the amp is on ?

i mean that the amp is on all the time (the tubes light) even when not playing

just wondered as it sound more resonable for the amp to light on only when selection is made

eitan

Hi Eitan,
Well, that's the way it was designed--in commercial use, the amp must stay warm, so that the first record played will be heard ! In MOST AMi's, the amp stayed hot even if you turned off the main power switch ! Ron Rich

Eitan, it is normal for the tubes to remain lit. However the B+ which is the high voltages for the tubes is switched off except when a record is playing.

On the AMI of that period it is slightly different from other manufacturers in that the 5U4 remains lit but the high voltage from it is switched. The relay which does this is connected to two screw terminals called A1 and A2. When the machine is in standby mode there should be approx 24 volts (ac or dc-?). This is important. If the relay is not powered the full B+ is allowed to flow in the amp and this wastes both power and tubes. When a record is about to play you should hear a click from inside the amp chassis, this is the relay being tuned off which allows full power and the AGC to operate.

On all my AMI phonos, I added a relay to the scan control which in-turn switches a standard AC outlet. I plug the amp(s) into that. No power is used in the amps except when a session begins. The drawback is that sometimes the amp will not be fully warmed up before the record starts and there will be a slight wait. I've never had any complaints.

Rob

Rob,
Do you really need to add a relay--how about just using an AC cube tap--plug both amp and turntable motor, into "turntable socket" ?
Ron Rich

Ron, beginning with K the T-T was switched between records via a microswitch. Prior to that is was possible to do as you suggest, but I didn't want to subject the switch in the scan unit to the full inrush of the amp. BTW: In the old machines that I owned (H-I &J) the T-t motor is directly wired with crimps.

Rob

Rob,
I thought the scan control switch was an open blade-snap switch in those?? I think it could handle it, if so--
If a Micro Switch, I agree totally---it would soon fail---IMHO they are only good for low voltage--- Ron Rich