Phonoland

thanks,
I inherited this wonderful console from my grandmother. My family was going to throw it away so I saved it. I have no info on it other than it is a packard bell. It turns on and plays via the aux (rca style jacks) my mp3 player. The turn table needs the friction spinning rubber wheel gromit ad it deteriorated. And it does not pick up am/ fm signals yet.. i dont have an antenna for it. Any info on this beautiful piece would be great.

It depends on how much you want to keep it. It will need to be properly restored by a service tech who will clean, adjust and lube the changer including the idler wheel. The amp/tuner will need recapped and any out-of-spec parts replaced. Continued use in this unrestored condition will result in the all too familiar "pop" and "fizz" accompanied by a burnt electronics smell. Bottom line... I would restore it and enjoy it.

I plan to have the internals restored. It works fine if i hook my ipod up to the aux port. It wasnt used that muchg when my grandparents had it.

vividlyvintage wrote:I plan to have the internals restored... It wasn't used that much when my grandparents had it.

It's the passing years*** that impact the electronics; not so much the usage when they were in their prime. For instance, rubber and certain synthetic type plastics used for insulators start to break down, harden, crack, crumble and fall away over time, leaving exposed wires, etc., in place. In addition, all of the mechanical components--those used in the turntable/changer; possibly the switches and the tuning dial--need to be inspected and serviced. Until this is done, it's best to leave it unplugged and unplayed.

***As-found wind-up Victrolas also need to be completely cleaned and overhauled prior to usage, but unlike the electronic units, they won't burn your house down, or electrocute you. At worst the spring will explode, blast out the sides of the cabinet, and decapitate anything nearby. (Kidding, of course...)

HTH,
Joe_DS

As JoeDS stated - it's best to just let the unit sit unplugged until the restoration work is performed on it.

Also, as stated, it doesn't matter how much it was used...... age takes its toll anyway.
Right now it may "play", but the sudden frying of a power transformer and output transformers raise the costs of restoration a few hundred bucks over what it would cost now.
More than once I've had the displeasure of charging my customers the extra costs - if only they would have been warned of this beforehand.

The choice is yours.

Thanks for the advice.. i will do as instructed to prevent possible damage. Do you happen to know what year this model is? Also do you know any repair shops in the San Francisco bay area?

vividlyvintage wrote:Thanks for the advice.. i will do as instructed to prevent possible damage. Do you happen to know what year this model is? Also do you know any repair shops in the San Francisco bay area?

Judging by the Glaser-Steers record changer in it, I'd venture to guess around 1961 or so.
Best to search online for someone reputable to do the needed work.
Get some background, references, etc on them, there are too many sloppy techs just in it for the money.

It is my experience that if a unit has been in continuous use since it was bought, there is no reason (other than cracked insulation on a power cord) to stop using it. It is the unit that is put away for years that is more likely to have trouble.

As long as electrolytic capacitors are still in use, they retain their dielectric properties. If an electrolytic capacitor is left unused, it changes its properties, increasing the capacity, but also reducing the maximum voltage it can take. One of five things happens when the set is powered up with a changed capacitor:

1. The capacitor ruptures, spewing its contents inside the set. If it is in a higher voltage area, it can cause other damage.

2. The capacitor opens, causing the set to have a very loud hum (if in the power supply) or blocking the signal (if a coupling capacitor between stages). This also happens if the capacitor has a bad seal and has totally dried out.

3. The capacitor shorts, blowing out other components.

4. The capacitor changes back the way it should be. The set hums for a few minutes, the works normally.

5. The capacitor forms back almost the way it should be, causing noisy or erratic operation.

Record-changer wrote:It is my experience that if a unit has been in continuous use since it was bought, there is no reason (other than cracked insulation on a power cord) to stop using it. It is the unit that is put away for years that is more likely to have trouble.

As long as electrolytic capacitors are still in use, they retain their dielectric properties. If an electrolytic capacitor is left unused, it changes its properties, increasing the capacity, but also reducing the maximum voltage it can take. One of five things happens when the set is powered up with a changed capacitor:

1. The capacitor ruptures, spewing its contents inside the set. If it is in a higher voltage area, it can cause other damage.

2. The capacitor opens, causing the set to have a very loud hum (if in the power supply) or blocking the signal (if a coupling capacitor between stages). This also happens if the capacitor has a bad seal and has totally dried out.

3. The capacitor shorts, blowing out other components.
4. The capacitor changes back the way it should be. The set hums for a few minutes, the works normally.

5. The capacitor forms back almost the way it should be, causing noisy or erratic operation.

As for number "3" - if certain capacitors get "leaky" (which is a common effect due to aging) they'll stress the tubes associated with them.
The effect isn't noticeable sometimes - most people can't hear this happening until it's too late.
(yes, the set sounds "wonderful" to you because you're not knowledgeable of how it really should sound)
You'll never notice the output tubes dangerously "red-plating" down inside the console with the back on it.
People with their first tube stereo, etc, aren't wary of such things.

This mostly happens in the tube grid circuits, causing excessive current draw/bias reduction of the output tubes, which then puts additional stress and overheating on the output transformers and power supply components - eventually resulting in massive (and expensive) failure of the set.

I try to educate people about this, because I hate to hit them with a super-hefty service charge when these things happen.
I've seen it happen numerous times as a servicer, and it isn't pretty.
My advice is to not shell out the tons of money for expensive, hard to find transformers, if you simply have the thing check out thoroughly.

I always recap as it is cheap insurance and I don't like do-overs. A lot of tube converts are newbies and do not know what to look for in an old set to prevent trouble and I don't want to discourage them so I tell them "an ounce of prevention..."