Newbie with questions: Rock Ola 504 - where to start?

Ok, getting closer. I have some lights and some mechanical functioning. I believe she is a goer! Let me know if this is what I should be hearing when I make a selection. See video below.

I bought some bayonet replacement bulbs (28 Volt - 0.1 Amp - T3.25 Bulb - Miniature Bayonet Base ) but am getting some wonky results from them. See pic. They arent burning consistently bright in the sockets. At first I thought it might be the socket but I put the one original bulb (marked as TS47) in the dim side and it burned brighter. Think I just need to find the correct bulbs. Any thoughts?




VIDEO:
http://www.screencast.com/t/ZeqSyPGzzKm3

Thanks again for the help.

Ok, getting closer. I have some lights and some mechanical functioning. I believe she is a goer! Let me know if this is what I should be hearing when I make a selection. See video below. I bought some bayonet replacement bulbs (28 Volt - 0.1 Amp - T3.25 Bulb - Miniature Bayonet Base ) but am getting some wonky results from them. See pic. They arent burning consistently bright in the sockets.

I should have read and commented on this thread sooner -sorry about that. Nearly ALL wallboxes that use bayonet base bulbs run them through an autotransformer that provides just over 5 volts at the sockets. #44 or #47 lamps are commonly used. The 5 volts is to allow them to last longer.

For some inexplicable reason the "Person" who restored 3W1's for the Johnny Rockets chain removes the transformer and connects 28 volt bulbs directly to the line. 28 Volt bulbs are more expensive and have thinner, more delicate filaments. Pointless.

The 28 volt lamps can be useful in testing the signal line. Connect one between the 28 volt input and the signal terminal. It should blink with the number of flashes corresponding to the letter & number of the buttons pressed.

Rob/NYC

Hi Rob,
Although I do not agree with removing the lamp autoformers on the JR 3W-1's I was told the reason it was done--On the first one they installed at a new JR, one of the autoformers shorted out, before the location opened. The "stink" from that unit forced them to not open on schedule. Ron Rich

Hi Newbie,
Yep--the audio sounds right--that does not necessary indicate ALL is correct, or not-- !
And as you surmised--you gotta the wrong lamps !! As Rob said-#44's or #47's should probably be used, in that model wallbox --or maybe #51's, or # 55's ??--see the SERVICE MANUAL for the correct number, or numbers. Ron Rich

Just "a word" about lamps---
Mini lamps were made by "many" companies--or maybe only by one, or two here in the USA--I know for a fact that one could get lamps with your "marking" on them from other companies, if enough were purchased--
In this case, the "TS" you see on the lamp is the makers name ( Tung Sol)--.All of the makers here, agreed on the numbering system so a TS 47, would be the same as a GE 47--Other brand names I recall, at the moment were: W, CM, and S. (One "exception" I know of is the W-1819 lamp--which should NEVER be used in the Seeburg MicroLog system !--all other 1819's are fine)
I would STRONGLY advise anyone to use ONLY the lamp number specified by the OEM ! This is especially true on transistorized lamp driven units--use of the "wrong one" endangers the driver ! If you decide to use another number lamp, you should check the lamp guide specs. against the specs the design engineer posted for that item--be sure to check current draw--lamp heat (generated) and, of course, envelope size, and lumens. Ron Rich