Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

Electrically amplified phonographs or radio/phonographs and related components (approx. 1928-1990).



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avery
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Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

by avery » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:57 am

I purchased a Magnavox changer at a garage sale and the tag said it works but need power cord adapter. The brown cord coming out of the plastic base is 3-pronged with 2 prongs parallel to one another ( || ) in a vertical position, and the 3rd prong is horizontal . Each prong is about half the size of a standard prong in a US plug. I cannot locate ANY data on Magavox 836 changers so I am posting here in hopes that someone can point me in the right direction. I would like to cut the wire and add a plug and then hook to my receiver's switched power outlet, but don't want to do it without knowing which wires to use. I assume the horizontal prong is a ground or is for some switching arrangement to the old Magnavox receiver.

The dust cover has no information on it and the changer says Magnavox 836, and is black and with silver tone arm that has a lot of knobs and sliders for adjustment and leveling. The words Made In England are etched under the tone arm in very small black letters, and on the bottom of the plastic base is a sticker that says Made in USA. The model/serial number sticker on the bottom is unreadable, and there is no information under the platter. I cannot remove the changer from the base. The Phillips head screws on the bottom will not turn as of yet. I removed the platter and do not see a way to get it out from there either. It appears to me that it was manufactured in the 80's.

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Record-changer
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Re: Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

by Record-changer » Thu May 01, 2008 7:18 am

Image

In the above image, there is a rectangular slide in the back left corner, and a similar slide near the tonearm's pickup head. They slide to lock down and unlock the floating springs. When turned a quarter turn, they allow removing the changer from the base.

The three wires are the hot power wire, the neutral power wire, and a wire to switch on the amp. You can use an ohmmeter to find out which wire is which. Connect the meter to two of the wires, and note the reading. Try all combinations to find out which wire is which.:

- Reading is a resistance, never changes when the switch is turned on and off: The probes are touching the neutral wire and the amplifier switch wire.

- Reading is open with the switch off, and a resistance with the switch on: The probes are on the hot and the neutral wires.

- Reading is open with the switch off, and a dead short with the switch on: The probes are touching the hot and amplifier switch wires.

If you do not need the amplifier switch function, tape the end of this wire to keep it from shorting.

Make sure that none of the wires (other than a green wire sometimes provided for the purpose) has any continuity to the metal changer plinth.
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avery
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Re: Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

by avery » Thu May 01, 2008 4:48 pm

Thanks so very much! I wouldn't have thought to turn those slide bars in a million years. I just did and was able to remove the changer from the base and now I can see which wires go where. I'll use an ohmmeter to find out which wire is which, as you suggested.


Topic author
avery
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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:08 am

Re: Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

by avery » Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:08 pm

I've finally gotten around to rewiring the plug and the motor is getting current but rotates so slow that the platter will not turn. I cannot find any online Maintenance Guide for the Magnavox 836 to find out what kind of lube to use and where to use it. Anyone have any suggestions?

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Re: Magnavox 836 Changer wiring

by Record-changer » Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:10 am

Usually this means one of these things:

1. The motor lubrication is dried up and worthless. The motor bearings need to be cleaned and relubed.

2. The rubber motor mounts have disintegrated, causing the motor shaft step drive to engage the wrong speed selection.

3. The jockey assembly holding the idler wheel needs lubrication.

4. The rubber tire on the idler wheel is damaged or hard. Try Caig CaiKleen RBR on the rubber. If that does not work, the tire must be replaced.

5. The motor is wound or wired for 240 volts.

6. A 50 HZ motor is installed. The diameters of the step drive are different for different line frequencies.
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