Repair help Seeburg DS100H

Actually there are two 2050 tubes in the DS100, I added one that was absent before I attached the WOM. So far, I have found a blown 3.2 amp fuse in the receiver. I had to break the fuse off to be able to get it free from the cap that holds it in the fuse socket. I am hoping whatever caused the fuse to blow happened 30 years ago before I bought the Juke Box. Since the reciver has been recapped I am hoping the problem has been resolved. I hooked the WOM 3W1 up to my DS160 with a known good reciver and the WOM did make selections and no fuse was blown on the DS160. Still need to check and make sure all selection buttons do operate. Considering spraying the WOM selection button contacts with DEoxit just to clean up any deposits that are on the contacts. I was told it was taken out of service 25 years ago. I have already lubricated the WOM. After I put in the 3.2 amp I will know more. Any ideas what may have caused that particular fuse to blow, I assume it could be a multitude of things?

Thanks
Darrell

Darrell,
There needs to be 2-2050's in order to work the WOM. Did you check the second (upper) tube ? --you can do so real quick by installing it in the lower portion of the TSU, and seeing if you can make a selection.
That fuse only protects the outboard 25vac circuit. Therefore your unit had a "short" in it (wires cut,touching) at onetime.
If you had the 3.2a fuse with a "red cap", you did not "need to brake it off"--just purchase a new GMQ 3.2, as the red cap is part of it--DO NOT use a fuse any larger then 3.2--in fact, if you are using a "standard" MDL/313 type, with only one WOM attached, lower it to a 2 amp. Ron Rich

Performed check on upper 2050 tube as you suggested. It worked fine in the lower socket and allowed me to make selections. Waiting for my 3.2 GMQ fuse to arrive. Trying to figure out what purpose the white powder inside the fuse serves?

Tried to put 3 amp auto fuse in the red cap to see if that would serve as a fuse lower than 3.2 amp, but that did not work.

The white powder, I was told, stopped the fuse link from hitting and breaking the glass, when it "blew" under extreme load.
The reason a GMQ type fuse was used was to prevent "people" from installing a larger fuse. Doing so, creates a fire hazard.
You will need to trouble shoot the stepper--or send it to someone like me who rebuilds those, often-- Ron Rich

I put a new 3.2 AMP in the RCSU and the 3W1 WOM sends a signal to the DS100. This same 3w1 WOM when hooked up to my DS160 works fine. It appears the stepper is messed up and unfortunately, the manual does not include any trouble shooting for the stepper unit. In the manual it talks about making adjustments in increments of 1/2 to 3/4 of an ounce or 100 to 140 grams. What kind of tool or set of weights would a repair person have with him to make these types of adjustments?

Capacitors C551 thru C557 have been replaced along with the 3.2 fuse are alll new. Is it probable my problem lies in the remaining Resistors R551 thru R556?

A long,long time ago, when I worked for "MaBell", I saw some-- and was somewhat schooled on their use, however my instructor did not like using them, and taught me to be like him, and use the "seat of my pants". I learned rather well, and could show you, if you were sitting here--maybe some day I'll make a video--
Till then, you can "mess around" with it, (and probably make it worse), or you can send it out for repair--- The one tool that I find is a "must" for all contact blades is a curved "forming tool". The one I have was hand-made by my instructor, at least 50 years ago, and still use it. Ron Rich

Just following this post a bit. I assume the ac voltage that is supposed to be on pin 3 of the 2050 stepper tube originates at a transformer in the selection receiver and works it way through the mechanism of the stepper unit. Is there a good test point to look for this voltage in the stepper if it's not at the tube?

I have two Seeburg WOM S3WA for my DS160. On gives you 6 plays for a quarter and the other one gives you one play for a quarter. I have spent the last half hour attempting to find where you make the adjustments that are found on page 26 of the manual! For instance I do not see anything that even resembles the coil positioning adjusting screws, wheel stops, stop pin or pawl stop etc. What am I missing here? An help in finding these items would be appreciated.

Thank you
Darrell

The WOM 6 plays for a quarter issue has been resolved. To bad they cannot write a manual that a novice could follow

Thank you for friends that are willing to assist!

"They" did not envision a "novice" attempting to work on them thar thangs--as they are commercial (money making) machines ! Service schools were held for the "pro's"---Ron Rich

Since schools no longer exist, service repairmen for these elecronic wonders are like shoe repairmen (less and less with each passing year) and it becomes neccessary to try to learn some of this "stuff" yourself if you want an antique to operate.

I would only advise that anyone that wants to get involved with a Seeburg WOM S3WA also obtain the manual for the 3W-1 which at least gives an explanation of the theory of the credit assemmbly and a picture that actually helps you understand how it works! (My friend pointed this out to me)

Have a good weekend.

Darrell

Ron Rich wrote:A long,long time ago, when I worked for "MaBell", I saw some-- and was somewhat schooled on their use, however my instructor did not like using them, and taught me to be like him, and use the "seat of my pants". I learned rather well, and could show you, if you were sitting here--maybe some day I'll make a video--
Till then, you can "mess around" with it, (and probably make it worse), or you can send it out for repair--- The one tool that I find is a "must" for all contact blades is a curved "forming tool". The one I have was hand-made by my instructor, at least 50 years ago, and still use it. Ron Rich

I have been messing around with it and I have noticed there isa nice new 10uf cap in the circuit instead of the 5uf original. It must work with the 10uf or I assume they wouldn't have put it in the kit, but who knows. The plate voltage on tube is about right. I could see the pulses from the wom coming in with my voltmeter on the tube grid. I didn't locate the cathode circuit to see if the cathode was connected to ground ok. I could heck that out. The pulse from the 2050 goes up in the stepper mechanism, relays and switches,there could be an issue in that mechanism. I will take a look at the wiring at output of the 2050 sometime to see if everything is connected ok.

Am I getting close to the problem?