Phonoland

The big problem: The juke selects all 1xx selections fine. Doesn't select any 2xx.

Alrighty. Got my Ron Rich microlog book. Got my service manual. They are some help (though I'm not a technician so not as much help as they might be to most). Mostly this post is going to be a log of what I've tried, questions about what I read in the manual, and solicitations of advice to get this baby working.

1. This symptom is in Rons book: "scans past all selections on one side - ok on the other side". Trouble area indicated as "Mechanism" or DRD

2. I immediately suspected bad tormat contacts. I located these contacts cleaned them WELL with a pencil eraser so they all shine, Then wiped with contact cleaner and a rag. No improvement.

3. It also indicates possibly reversing switch contact issues. Cleaned and inspetcted the reversing switch stack (again) seems good to go. I paid special attention to switches IM3 and IM5 since these enable "right side play".

4. Tormat cable looks fine (cleaned it's connection while I was at it)

This is where I stopped yesterday. I haven' yet attempted the D battery process (in Phono Procedure #3) in Rons book and I plan to do that next. However, I wanted to see if this was the last thing to attempt on the list or is there anything else I've missed that would be simpler for me (contacts to clean, cables/connections to check, etc).

I certainly plan on doing this test but I dont really understand what it's doing, so I want to make sure I have all my other bases covered first.

Thanks for the great book, Ron!

Hi Rob,
You missed checking the "pins" that ride ( the "frog") under the TMU--check to see that they are not worn, (they should have silver left on top, be "dressed" with a slight dome, and be sure the small wire below is well connected).
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Hi Rob,
You missed checking the "pins" that ride ( the "frog") under the TMU--check to see that they are not worn, (they should have silver left on top, be "dressed" with a slight dome, and be sure the small wire below is well connected).
Ron Rich

Thanks Ron...honestly I didn't check those because I can't figure out how to actually get to them Do I need to remove the entire record rack?

And, to confirm, the 2xx pin is the one on the FRONT side of the track, yes?

Hi Rob,
It's simple--do you know how to "pull the mechanism out" ? If not Read your "I & O manual". ( I don't recall, but if you have purchased my Mech guide, read the warning for the LS-1, as it pertains to the LS-2, and 3 also).
Once out, you can remove the pop meter simply by removing four screws--don't forget to pull the "connectors" off first-
and reach the frog-- As for the "front" side--depends on how you view the mech---I view it with the record rack being the rear, of the mechanism, but the service manual for that model, calls the rack side, the front. ( The mechanism was turned around starting in the LS-1 model, and remained so in all future 160 selection MicroLog models) Ron Rich

Thanks Ron, I'll try this tonight. I'll pull the mech forward and look for the screws to remove it (I think I was afraid of realignment when I put it back in so I didn't mess with it)

I noticed in the service manual it specifically calls the record rack the 'front' so that's what I meant...with that definition, the 2xx is the 'front' side of the tormat rows?

Rob,
To be honest--I don't recall which row of rivets is which side on any model--
I just check both if I have a "one side failure"--
Ron Rich

Yes! Got it. I took off the pop meter and found a broken wire. Replaced it. Everything works. Awesome, and huge thanks Ron!

(not sure if I should start a new post for the following or not):

I was celebrating and super happy...then I tried replacing my needles. In the process I broke the cartridge completely off the tone arm...the 3 wires came disconnected. Feeling totally defeated now.

It's obviously too hard to solder them in place (and it's going to be really hard even with the tone arm out since they're SO small)...but regardless, my next question is:

How do I remove the tone arm? Nothing in either manual I have and I'm afraid of parts falling everywhere.

Can it easily be removed so I can solder it at a table? Any tips?

Rob,
RTFG--there is "stuff" in BOTH of my "Guides" about this ! And iffin you wooda read it FIRST, you most likely wood not have broken that socket ! Ron Rich

Soldering those wires are a pain, but can be done.

Tim

nagamitsu wrote:Soldering those wires are a pain, but can be done.

Tim

Thanks Tim...I appreciate some commiseration Better than yet another RTFM....

EDIT: 60 minutes later and i'm back up and running. That wasn't so bad afterall...

Well, soldering those contacts will be due penitence.

Here is a shot of where the wires go:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=3&o=72

Note that the rear clip part of the socket is closest in this pic. Use a low wattage iron and magnification.

Asa general rule, I never removed those carts unless absolutely necessary. The plastic clip is often broken (or will break) so I used high quality tape to reinforce it. This is why I went back to the old mono sockets on the retro machines I have out once the 345-03D was available.

Rob/NYC

Rob-NYC wrote:Well, soldering those contacts will be due penitence.

I'm a real 'learn by fire' kinda guy...break crap, learn to fix it, then you know how it works better

It's back up and running once again!

Good info thanks! Certainly a bit more difficult than what I dealt with.

Tim

Rob-NYC wrote:Well, soldering those contacts will be due penitence.

Here is a shot of where the wires go:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=3&o=72

Note that the rear clip part of the socket is closest in this pic. Use a low wattage iron and magnification.

Asa general rule, I never removed those carts unless absolutely necessary. The plastic clip is often broken (or will break) so I used high quality tape to reinforce it. This is why I went back to the old mono sockets on the retro machines I have out once the 345-03D was available.

Rob/NYC