1963 seeburg jukebox LPC-1 troubles cant figure out Help Please

This jukebox is really giving me a hard time and I'm going to ask the experts . Its a seeburg LPC-1 made in 1963 I have a manual but its for a LPC 480 will that one work they look the same. The problem I'm having is the push buttons will not latch in. the select light is on for the coin in. The latch bar solenoid will not energize. I'm trying to figure out which contacts that will make it energize. The mech. Will only scan twice and stop passing what I selected . Thanks guys for your help

There are likely several problems here.

1) What happens when credit light is on and you press a letter and number at the same time?

2) Using an AA, C or D cell place the minus against a reasonably clean protrusion from the chassis(edge of a pulse amp or screw while touching the center tip of the RCA from each of the pulse amps to the positive a few times. Place the RCA's back in their sockets, start scan either with the keyboard (if possible) or by toggling the service switch to 'scan" then back to "operate". The mach should scan over to the left side, reverse and instantly trip play the "A" side then the "B" of anything in that slot.

Realistically, this machine's electronics must be rebuilt before you can get safe and reliable operation. There is no shortcut to this end.

Rob-NYC

When I push the buttons it won't latch them in. Right now I'm trying to get the latch bar to energize when I drop in a coin. Like I said the light comes on but the latch bar solenoid does nothing. Is it a set of contacts that fire it?

junkman wrote:When I push the buttons it won't latch them in. Right now I'm trying to get the latch bar to energize when I drop in a coin. Like I said the light comes on but the latch bar solenoid does nothing. Is it a set of contacts that fire it?

Also when I push a letter won't latch and numbers won't latch. But when you push both down at the same time the mech. will start up and scan twice and stop no play.

Hi Junkman,
As Rob said--you have several problems--letz do it one at a time--
LPC-480 Manual will do, BUT you will need to read it, and remove all references to the "Album Scan Control", and or any reference to any thing "Disco"--
Look at the APU section--credit switches are the same for both phono's, as is the latch bar solenoid circuit--remember that the solenoid power is interrupted by the "release switch" on the keyboard ( izit good--plugged in ??)
( I assume that no one has cut wires to the sol--and it has not been on fire !!)
As for the no detent problem--I slightly disagree with the use of anything other than a known good "D cell" as sometimes the others will NOT work--but that battery trick will pin down which section is failing--did you check voltages in the TCC ?? Ron Rich

I did the battery test on the pulse amp jacks. With power on I put the battery bottom on a clean screw and touched the cable to the positive end. Seen nothing heard nothing. Plugged them back in pushed letter key then number key it scan twice and stopped like before. All I had was a new c battery. And another thing I noticed was when I push the release button the select any single goes out. Is that normal? Also the three ceramic resistors at the bottom of the push button selector near the latch bar solenoid get very very hot can't touch. Also playing with the control center I make a selection and get the mech scanning like it was before and when it would get to a record I would push in on the rift side relay on the back of the control center and it would stop an play the record and put it back like it should then scan twice and stop

Don't know what to say--I do not trust a C cell?? Did you try this with both Tormat (TMU) wires (RCA plugs?) ?? . Pushing on the relay should cause it to do xactly as it did-"trip circuit" is OK--
If you did try this on both TMU wires, I would next check the detent switch operation, and the read out plunger operation. Ron Rich

Detent lever or detent switch?

I think I'm going to put it down for tonight. I shot a fuse in the album price unit not sure this is the problem but it's one now got to get fuses tomorrow. I have cleaned all contacts here and nothing looks broke or bent. I'm still rubbing the old head trying to figure out what powers the latch solenoid?

If the C cell is good you have probably done the battery test. Next; it to replace one, or both 12AX7 tubes in the pulse amps and after that try a known good 2050 in either front or back trip socket.

As-is the proper approach will have to be unitized troubleshooting-servicing. Getting it to pass the battery test will be first. that way we know it can read--out when selections are able to be written-in.

Once again, the electronics will have to be properly rebuilt as they are over 50 years of age and can't be counted-on for safe and reliable operation.

If you had asked what was the least suitable Seeburg to try repairing as a first timer, the LPC would have been last on my list. It is the most complicated machine they made...but that is what you have so determine how comfortable you are with replacing capacitors in the control unit and amp along with testing resistors and cleaning things up.

The fact that manually tripping a relay gets it to handle a record correctly indicates that the trip circuit and basic mechanicals are OK -so that is a start.

Rob

I'm very comfortable working on the juke. It's just know where to start. I'll try the tubes and see what happens. And I thank you and Ron for the help.

I'm out and about trying to find the fuse that I have blown it is a 125volt buss mdl 1 6/10 can someone tell me can I find it in local stores or is there a substitute that o can use?

That fuse protects the "subtract circuit" in the APU--you can usually use a 1.5 slo blo fuse there or,if you know why it blew, and have repaired the problem--a 2 amp fast blo is an acceptable >>TEMPORARY << sub.

I put 2 fuse in to try to get going until I get the other fuse Monday. And I did find a store with D battery. I'm lucky to find that here this town is nothing but car lots and title loan stores but any how. I tried the D battery test like you said cause all I had before was a C and still nothing same result. Am I suppose to hear a click or something when I touch the battery to the cable? I'm going to test the tubes today but all I have is a small hand held tester with a bulb that lights up if its good. not a very good tester I have been trying to find a good tester with no luck around here. They all glow really good purple from each tube. But I'm not sure about the album pricing unit. I have cleaned all the contacts and I can cycle the motor by hand and the mech will take off scan twice and stop. Or I can push a number button and a letter and it will take off and scan twice and stop. I'm working real hard on trying to get the battery test to work I just need to know what to look for when I do it. Or am I barking up the wrong tree. I never see the motor in the pricing unit cycle until I nudge it and then it will make a rotation the way I'm understanding it is every time the selection is made the pricing unit motor is to turn the big wheel counter clockwise to remove credit ? Thanks for the help.

IMHO. You are wasting your/our time by not reading the manual--and not following our directions---Please re-read earlier posts above--Only two tubes should "glow"--the two OA-2's. If the others are glowing, turnoff power, as something is drastically wrong, and I suspect that you are about to "blow" the main transformer on the TCC ! Ron Rich