Phonoland

I would dis-assemble the motor, and clean all of the "gunk" out of it-and hope nothing else has become too "sticky"---- Ron Rich

I'd like to re-iterate the unasnswered question Steve asked -

What's WRONG with the other oils? What happens under heavy use (or light use, hot, cold use, etc.)

I've been using the blue 3-in-1, but just ran out, and have a can of the black. I see everyone agreeing, but no info to back it up. (Unfortunately, Snopes.com doesn't have anything on whether this is some kinda of chain letter or not. (That's sarcasm.. ))

3 in one, the "red can" stuff, is simply a cheap household "oil" best used for squeaky hinges, and very little more.
It's horrible for anything high-speed, such as motors and bearings. It will eventually clog these up and turn to gum, making removal very difficult, if not impossible.

The motors and bearings used in jukeboxes require a good, long-lasting lubricant non-detergent type of oil.
20-30 weight, as mentioned previously.
Sliding surfaces - for reducing friction & wear, require a good long-lasting grease too.
Something immune to heat and drying out.
Moly types greases are ok, but even better are Teflon-based lubes like "Super Lube" with PFTE. (teflon)
Mechanisms I've lubed with Super Lube 20 years ago are still like new, and the grease is still "clear" and dirt-free.

Shortcuts or using cheap "tools" always come back to bite you in the ass.

MattTech wrote:3 in one, the "red can" stuff, is simply a cheap household "oil" best used for squeaky hinges, and very little more.
It's horrible for anything high-speed, such as motors and bearings. It will eventually clog these up and turn to gum, making removal very difficult, if not impossible.

Ah, okay - that's what I was looking for - so improper oils (like the black/red can, and others out there) can gunk up - thicken and start acting like glue. Interesting then.

Thanks!

On some places the manual suggests oiling and on some others grease. Is it ok to use everywhere this 3 in 1 for example?
And will another oil 20 SAE be ok? One car oil from castrol for example?

My OPINION is--I do not "grease" anything, unless I remove ALL of the "old stuff", first ! I have seen too many instances where the "grease" is causing a problem---Oil in this case is, IMHO, usually best-- Ron Rich

Hi, this post is fantastic, thank you very much.
I have noted that in my new jukebox (1426 rockola) whole mechanism is completely filled with oil (in excess). Even in electronic components.
What could be the best option?
Disarm completely and clean the mechanism?

thank you very much.
Martin

Hi Martin,
Yes--I think you are going to need to at least, partly dis-assemble, and clean it--"Electronics" should not have any "oil" in it, as there could be a dangerous fire problem ?? Ron Rich

Hello, thanks for answering .
It's what I imagined !
It will be a long job .
Thank you very much for the help.

I have a "Safe Solvent" on the way based on a recommendation from Ron Rich. I have Gunk built up everywhere. I just picked up the Blue 3 in 1 from Lowes. Ron also recommended a graphite lube for those indicated spots after cleanup. Does anyone have a brand to look for? It seems like it is best to avoid aerosol for control. I don't want to get the wrong product and take more steps backwards. Somewhere I saw that he was using some from the 60's. Thanks!!!

Hi Martin,
Yep--I still have two, one lb. "cans" of Dixon #3 graphite grease--NLA as far as I know--but CRC StayLube moly-graph is available. It works nicely, when I can't locate one of my older cans--- Ron Rich

Just wanted to mention, I found 3-in-1 motor oil at Lowe's but it didn't have a picture of a motor on it. It was this bottle:



Same stuff, I assume? It says 20 wt motor oil, just no picture of a motor.

Hi Joey,
I assume so also--Plastic-can I just bought has the motor on it, still--got it at a "Lowes" owned store (Branded "OSH") ?
Could be they changed the graphics--again -- Look at the back of it, down low--does that can say "dist by WD 40" ?
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Hi Martin,
Yep--I still have two, one lb. "cans" of Dixon #3 graphite grease--NLA as far as I know--but CRC StayLube moly-graph is available. It works nicely, when I can't locate one of my older cans--- Ron Rich

CRC makes another product with moly, graphite, and PTFE. It is CRC Brake and Caliper grease. Any reason why this wouldn't work?

Might--except, IMHO, you do not want to get PTFE anywhere near the motor, and/or the brass bearings ! Also, I don't think it's compatible with 20 wt. oil ??
BTW, the Valve Spout Oiler I use is still available from: Longs Tool Range <tools@longs.co.uk> Their part number is AVS1145BL They will ship it "anywhere"--
Ron Rich