Phonoland

Hello, I would like to know what kind of soldering gun or pencil I should get for my electronic repair, & what kind of solder to get. I have not had much luck in this area the solder seems to just ball up and roll off. Thanks

There are many "variables" here--I'll attempt to hit the generally important areas.
For electrical work, electrical solder is required--do not use any other type. This is available with or with out a core. I prefer a rosin core type. If you don't use the core type, you will need to purchase additional "flux". I also prefer the "old mixture" of 60/40, so I get as close to that as possible. Thickness is another variable. This depends mostly on the type of work (point to point, thru hole or SMC). Iron size itself matters--once again, upon the type of work you are doing--Irons have tended to down size through the years--I have several, for different work.
To "solder" the first rule is the junction MUST be hot, prior to applying solder. The iron must be clean and "tinned" also. Some say ( mostly "old school" point to point wiring) that the junction must be mechanically tight. Certain components can be damaged if "overheated", so keep the iron on the junction only long enough to be sure it has "melted".
Get yourself some "junk" components and practice on them before you ruin something of value.
HTH,
Ron Rich

Ron gave you some great advice. I learned to solder from watching youtube video's there are really good vid's there. Ron's advice will be repeated
in most of the video's there.

I must agree all sound advice by Ron and the practice is a good idea.
Just make sure you keep everything clean, I usually scrape the leads of the components to be fitted with a craft knife to clean them up tags or posts can be cleaned by using a fibre glass pencil (clean off any residue before soldering).

Once you have mastered the art of soldering you can use any soldering iron including the old ones that go into gas rings. When I first started work for a rewind/installation company that is all we could use, the irons ranged from very small to some that you had trouble lifting.

As Ron says keep your iron tinned at all times, also file it down and re-tin if it becomes pitted.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Very important! Do not solder while wearing shorts!!

Thom,
I won't ask--but it probably is equally important that you wear shoes, also--I don't--just "Zorries", and have burnt my foot more then once ! Ron Rich

Hello Ron,

I know I shouldn't but I have to ask what are "Zorries"?

Like you I have been burnt many times and the fingers tend to take the heat.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan,
"Zorries" is either a trademark name or a slang term for beach sandals that have one strap that goes thru the space between the big toe, and the toe next to it.
I ware socks with them--people laugh, but I had a serious operation on my leg, and had to re-learn how to walk. I still have a very hard time with shoes on--
Speaking of "burnt skin"-- I had a co-worker once that fired up an old iron to to some soldering to a chassis--changing a transformer, I think--anyway he was not paying too much attention to what he was doing and grabbed the iron by the "hot end"-- SMOKE--and I have no idea what made me do it, but I grabbed the tube of heat sink grease, smothered his hand with it--an hour later, he was back working--no pain--very little burn--
Ron

Shorts or long pants makes very little difference. I once had a hot solder ball go right through my pants leg.

Note that the "new" lead free solder required by the EPA requires more heat, and might damage older equipment.