Seeburg KS 200

Hi

Have looked thru Installation & Operation Manual and Service & Parts Manual and can not find out how many ohms the speakers are, what the speaker impedance of all speakers are and what the crossover frequency for the crossover network is?

Also would the coil out of a type SN 1 crossover from Seeburg 222 interchange with the Seeburg KS200 type CN 600-1 crossover?

Can anyone supply this info, please?

Thank you
Darrell

Darrell, you are really comparing apples to oranges here (to use a hackneyed metaphor).

The K was mono. Each woofer was 16 ohm. they were wired in parallel to give an 8 ohm load. Same with the midrange "tweeters". The total load on the amp after the crossover divides it is 8 ohms.

On the 220-222 each 12" speaker is 16 ohm. As they are separate loads they present a 16 ohm load to each channel.

The black "crossover" box in the stereo machines was just a choke coil for each channel and bypass switch. It was calculated for 16 ohm loads. If you use one of these on an 8 ohm load they will crossover the woofer roughly an octave lower than they would in the 220-222. This may create a bit of a hole in the response.

If you already have one of these coils -try it. It won't do any electrical harm. But if you have to buy it -get the correct one or a new crossover.

Rob/NYC

Rob
Could you suggest what crossover would make a good replacement?

Thank you for the help

Best
Darrell

Darrell, any of the crossovers from V-Vl-K-201 will directly interchange -the speakers and loads are the same. That would be the simplest way to go if the original harness is there and it does preserve resale value -slightly.

Otherwise, a new two-way 8 ohm crossover is easy to find. The original was a 12db/octave -this is a good choice. The only possible wrinkle is that due to the fact that Seeburg's use of 8" driver as "tweeters" allowed a lower crossover frequency than would likely be considered normal in a modern crossover which assumes "proper" tweeters. In this case the resulting sound might be slightly different than original, probably in-favor of the new crossover.

If you really want to upgrade the sound while keeping the machine mostly original, you could add a high-efficiency tweeter (a real tweeter) such as this http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PH25/3-x-3-Horn-Tweeter and go to a three-way crossover. In this case the 8" speaker would be allocated the midrange frequencies where they are most suitable, and the new tweeter given the true highs.

This would make sense if you have upgraded the original pickup and (preferably) bypassed the original preamp with a newer, better design (these cost about $30).

Even if using the original crossover, a new tweeter and simple capacitor in series with it will vastly improve the sound of these machines.

Rob

Rob

Thank you for sharing your expertise with the board and me. If you don't mind I have a couple more questions,
would you put one or two "high-efficiency tweeters" in the KS to improve the sound?


What would the optimum cabinet locaion be for the tweeter(s)?

Best
Darrell

Hi Rob

Speakers are in without dismantling the Juke Box to do the job.

1. Used a 2-3/4 inch hole saw with a depth gauage attached to the drill. Drilled down to 1/4 of an inch of the grill cloth.

2. Used a rotozip to cut out another 3/16 of an inch of wood.

3. Used a slide hammer to pull the wood plug out of the backside of the Juke Box(away from the grill).

4. Used a curved pick implement to pull out slivers of the remaining 1/16 inch of wood.

5. Inserted speakers and job is just about done.

To do: Figure out how to wire the new speakers and crossover so they will work? No scematics were included with speakers or crossover.

Attached three pictures, two showing how the speakers (small one on far right and far left - tweeters) and o ne showing that we did no damage to the front grill cloth, grill or chrome parts.

Have a good one and thanks for all your ideas.

Best
Darrell

Darrell, you have mounted them exactly where I do although I only use one for the mono machines.

I see what looks like ac new crossover on the wall above the one on the floor.

What is the situation here. Is the old one going to be used at all?

Is the new crossover two or three way?

For wiring the tweeters, first determine the impedance. If both are 8 ohm, they can be either wired in series (=16 ohm) or parallel (=4 ohm).

Is there no documentation for your crossover either packed or online?

The woofers as wired originally in parallel equal 8 ohms as do the 8" mids so only the tweeters need to be determined.

If it happens that both tweeters are 8 ohm I suggest they be wired in-series for a 16 ohm load. This will be safest for them. What is needed are the crossover points on the crossover network.

Rob

It looks like you have a Cerwin-Vega E310 crossover:

http://www.mavin.com/store.php/products ... sover-pair.


Also, I see that the original ballasts are present. I suggest adding a 1 amp/slo fuse in series with the power input -even if you change them. They are simple chokes and thus can not short the AC line but as turns short in them the current will go up and fuse is still a good idea,


Rob

Rob

Thanks, that is the same crossover and I see why they did not send instructions:

"•All leads are marked so no directions are needed to hook up. IN +/- , W +/- , M +/- , T +/-
IN = Input , W = Woofer , M = Midrange , T = Tweeter , + / - = That there is a Positive and Negative Lead"

I have great sound and plenty of it. The old crossover is serving as a junction box and is being maintained in the cabinet for appearance and in case someone else ever wants to return it the correct crossover. The new cross over is a three way.

Thanks for tip on ballast.

Best
Darrell