Phonoland

Hi John,
The"speaker test" going from my great--but not too long memory, uses heater ac from the TSU transformer--
If the tubes are lighting in the amp, you have voltage, and if your switch is good, and no one has "messed with" the speaker wiring--itz gotta work- check the schematic. You MAY have a point on the center tap--does the speaker test use 6, or 3 volts ? I think the service manual explains that in words, and for sure in the schematic.
I would guess that the mech does need cleaning/proper re-lubrication also ! ( I suggest that if you have not done this before, my "Seeburg Mechanism Guide", should be of help here--PM me, if you wish to purchase a copy). Yes you can power the motor only by attaching 117 vac to the plug--USE a 1 AMP fuse in that line , for your safety ! Ron Rich

Ron the manual says that in the test position the speakers are connected to one side of the 6 volt tube heater cct for a hum test at approx 3 volts.
The amp works and sounds ok just can't get the hum test to work all I can think of is the transformer .
I already have your manual looks like I may need to remove and lubricate the clutch.

Hi John,
That's what I though it said- so if there is no CT on the filament section of the new transformer, it would make sense that there would be no "speaker test" either . A quick/dirty test for speakers, is to disconnect them from the amp, and touch the speaker wires to a flashlight battery--If wiring and speakers are intact, you should hear "popping", when the 2nd terminal is placed on the battery. As for the mechanism--I thought you had my guide--It won't do you much good if you don't read it---yep, sounds as if you should wash/properly re-lube the mech ?
Ron Rich

Hi Ron
Thx for the reply, reading your book is what led me to believe that the clutch was binding and needed removal for cleaning and lubricating, I just wanted confirmation.
Can you suggest a diode replacement for the smoothing rectifier (selenium) in the mech trip cct.
Cheers
John

Hi John,
If the detent lever is not "falling" all the way back down, the mechanism will do exactly as you say it's doing. If the lever is "falling" all the way down, the most likely reason for that incorrect operation, is a stuck/frozen clutch yoke pin. In such cases, yes--best to remove the clutch assembly and clean out the yoke, and clutch 2 lever.
1N4004, or better--the original rectifier seldom fails ? --the resistor fails once in awhile---
Ron Rich

Slowly working my way through this machine finally got the credit unit working ok.
Had the mech cycling left and right on the bench and it intermittently transferred a record to the turntable and returned it to the rack without playing it, it's not the clutch binding as I've had this apart oiled it then oiled it again and then decided to oil it a bit more. (Ron I did read your book )
I'll work my way through the issues but noticed at the end off the day the pawl springs on the brake cam have been destroyed? Any advice on why how would be appreciated as they were fine originally.

It would be my GUESS, that something you used tangled with the lower spring somehow, dis lodging the upper one slightly, then continuing to further impact the lower one ??--Doubt I have ever changed more the 10 of them--but have seen a few "messed up"-- Ron Rich

Ok need some advice I've connected the mech for testing, credit and write in seem to be working credits are being accepted and tormat And trip cct are tripping the mech correctly.
Record is transferred to the turntable but the clutch shifting lever is not dropping into the play notch of the cam.
Record is rejected and mech returns to scan.
If I push down slightly on the clutch shifting lever the roller drops into the notch but not all the way and the record plays on the turntable until tripped.
The clutch has been removed cleaned and copiously oiled and is not binding, I am thinking that the clutch needs to be readjusted as per the manual but would like confirmation before I make any changes.

Cheers
John

Hi John,
My guess would be the pivot the clutch shifting lever rides on is semi frozen, thus slowing down the shifting lever. To test this theory, select the last selection on the right side of the record rack. Stop the motor as it detents, turn power off, and turn the motor coupling by hand while watching the roller on the lever. When it gets to the notch on the cam watch it --it should "snap" down ( they do not fully enter the notch!).
At that point you can lift it up, with your hand, and watch it go back down--You should be able to determine why it's "slow"--and fix it !
HTH Ron Rich

Ron

This was doing my head in as everything in the clutch moved so freely, as a last resort I removed the clutch again and found that I had missed where the connecting link connects to the clutch.
Although it only moves slightly it was enough, pulled the connection apart and oiled and mech is now playing records.
Played a record tonight with the mech sitting on the ground next to the jukebox, pretty happy.
Still got a few issues I will address over the weekend mech is tripping one record out in the middle of the rack and sometimes not tripping at all at either end. I will check the tormat is aligned properly.
Also when a record is playing on one side it is close to the record rack frame but on the other it is dead middle?
Cheers
John

Hi John,
It appears to me, that ALL your remaining problems are "clutch related". When you removed the clutch assembly, did you check the longer pin attached to the yoke ? It sounds as if it is not tightly attached to the yoke (zero "play" allowed !!) ? Did you re-adjust the clutches--1 thru 4 in that order , BEFORE, proper oiling ? Did you use 20 wt. oil ? Ron Rich

Ron,

Excuse my ignorance but are you talking about item 12 in the attached drawing?
I haven't made any adjustments to the clutch yet, as it seemed to be working I left it alone.
Are you suggesting I perform the clutch adjustments 1 to 4?

Hi John,
No--item 12 is the pin the yoke rides on ( which also MUST be "free")--I am suggesting the larger (upper in the drawing) pin that is attached to item 7, the yoke itself, may have worked itself loose, due to previous lack of lubrication, and the resulting strain.
Yes, to adjusting the clutches as shown in the manual, IF, it still favors one side of the record slot. Ron Rich

Ron
Adjusting the clutch was spot on advice the record is now centered to the rack on A and B side when playing.
It is also tripping at the correct selection.
As to be expected more issues are arising, I have found that the selections A1to U1 when selected do not trip and play, yet when the battery test is used they play.
Also when the battery test is performed the entire A7 to U7 is missed but I can select and play A7 to U7 normally?
Other selections throughout the rack are also jumped over during the battery test.
Do I have a read and write problem?

Hi John,
Well for sure you have a read out problem--no way to tell if you have a write-in problem till you get the read-out working correctly (but I suspect so, from what you wrote). To correct the read-out problem check the pin plungers that ride on the TMU--they MUST be flat, to slightly domed, AND MUST still have silver on top. They must be adjusted as per manual, and the one closest to you must be dead centered between two rivets when mech is detented in the center of the record rack. Upward pressure on the contacts must be minimal-- I adjust that so there is just about 1/8 th inch clearance of the center black pin from the top bearing plate when the contact is NOT on an TMU rivet.--Pin also must move up/down freely. Ron Rich