Phonoland

My first post here. I have restored probably 35 arcade games. Just picked up my first juke in unknown condition (R 83 Rowe Ami disco 200). Was told it was in storage for several years since a bar closed. Upon getting it I found it was missing a memory unit which I was able to replace with a working one. I lubricated a few things and actually had it going normally.

It is now not scanning. Is this a scan motor problem? I recall before I placed the memory unit in I could push the black button on the scan motor and it would start to scan. This is no longer the case and it doesn't appear to be stuck or anything. I have tested the relay that plugs into the right side of it and it tests fine. When I press the scan button in the little gold box on the left of the cabinet I can hear the black button thing on the scan motor engage but nothing happens. My scan led light on the control unit comes on and off appropriately. Do I need a new scan motor? Thanks, Andy
My email is theuts@mchsi.com or pm me please.

Andrew,
Most likely, your scan motor has "frozen", due to lack of proper oil. In 99% of these cases, I have been able to save the motor by using 20 wt. ND motor oil to fill BOTH "oil wicks". I also add ONE drop, of oil, to both sides of the armature shaft and "push it" in/out a few times so that the "fly clutch" has an opportunity to operate, as designed.
Oil wick holes are difficult to see--they are on the "square" portion of the bearing housings--on some motors, top and bottom, others, only one can be found. SATURATE, but do not "over-fill", wicks( or records will be "oil coated"). Ron Rich

Thank you for your response. I think this scenario is very likely as I clearly had to lubricate other parts on the top because things were moving very slowly before I did so. Anyone have a close up pic of where these areas are located that Ron mentioned? What is the easiest way to access this area? Thanks, Andy

Andy,
Ainna no EZ way, I know of--gotta stick your nose down there and look--I use a Valvespout brand oiler, but a small straw should work-- Ron Rich

Hello Andy,

Welcome to the forum.
As Ron says there is no easy way. Be carefull with any lubrication, only use a spot of oil on the wicks.

The best way is to remove the Sprag Assembly (includes magazine motor, sprag wheel, solenoid & detent switch etc), also if you do you can place it near the jukebox and put 30 volts AC to it to test it.

The fault you have could be down to the mechanism control unit or the 30 volt AC power rail.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan, Andy,
I made an error here, in thinking of the "gripper" rather then the "basket" motor--
You are very correct, that motor must be removed to oil--I suggest that while out, the large "main shaft", bearings also be oiled, on both sides--Do NOT over-oil here ! -Ron Rich

Still having issues. I replaced the scan motor with a known working one and still this juke is not scanning. The scan light LED is coming on on the mechanism control unit but nothing is occurring. All my LED's are lighting up on my power supply. Any idea where to look next and how to test whatever you suggest? Also, I am enclosing a pic. Is this an oil wick? Thanks, Andy

Found a resistor that appears to be toast on my mechanism control unit. Am including a pic. Could this be causing my issue? Actually my pics are too big in size. Could someone shoot me an email I could send them to to verify what I found and what the oil wick is? Thanks, Andy

The resistor that is toast on my mechanism control unit is R108. Can anyone tell me the value if this so I can try and replace it? Thanks, Andy

Hello Andy,

Do you mean R801? if that is the correct location it is 18 ohms.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Yes, R801. Thank you. I was able to replace this and got the mechanism control unit going again.

I have 2 problems remaining I was hoping to get help with:
1) I just purchased a "working" selector logic board off ebay. It does select but not the number I punch in. I have it in "test position". Do the four dip switches need to be set a certain way? Will this fix my problem by changing these? Also when it is scanning I don't see any numbers starting with 1. It goes from about 200-299 if I recall.

2) my sound goes in out a bit. Last time I turned it on it started off sounding good but then gradually got more quiet to the point I had to have my ear by the stylus to hear it. If I recap the preamp board and drivers would this likely fix this problem? I assume these caps are all original. Anyone have a good source where to buy replacement caps?

Thanks, Andy

Andy,
For Cap kits, see above--"Used/new parts-----where to find"
Ron Rich

Hello Andy,

Have you got the manual for the jukebox? f not I suggest you purchase one, most of the questions you are asking is covered in the operation of the jukebox.

The four position dill switches are for premium pricing, the scanning of the mechanism is always displayed in the 200 range.

You need to check the timing of the mechanism, i.e. the location of the wipers on the encoder when in the 100/200 location of the mecanism. This is also covered in the manual.

The issue on the amplifier is highly unlikely to be a capacitor issue, I suggest that you send your amplifier away for testing/repair.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man