Wurlitzer 2150

Hello everyone, thanks for any help. I have a Wurlitzer 2150 having trouble with S selection. The pin is not kicking out at all when selection is made. You push is S 1 for example and it buzzes like it makes the selection and nothing happens. I noticed that when this is done the pin is not popping out to activate the selection for the solenoid. How hard is it to change one of these out, thanks!

Not quite sure of your "symptom", nor, what you want to "change out" ? Is this a phono you just obtained, or is this a problem that you have had for awhile ?
Are you saying that only the "S" selections" fail ? If so, I would suspect a plug, or keyboard problem, first--try re-seating all of the involved plugs---Ron Rich

I just acquired went thru did all the usual cleaning, amp rebuild. The only selections that do not work at S 1 thru S 9, you can enter both the letter S and number and machine seems like it takes the selection and makes the buzzing and releases the selection keys back out. I watched while I had someone make a selection and on the bottom ring the pin that comes out of the solenoid to activate the machine does not come out at all.

Here is a pic of the 2100 schematic:
http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=131

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=130
Both above are different shots of the same diagram. You can download these for enlargement on your machine via the "options" category on the lower right.

If the "S" are the only segment that doesn't work, it may be a broken slide contact in the keyboard or burned out coil. A cold solder joint at the coil is also possible.

If the above shots are not clear enough, I'll scan them in later but will have to break them up due to size constraints on the scanner.

Rob

I found nothing in the keyboard. Thanks for pics, my question is how hard is it to change that bad solenoid. This is the only letter that will not work. All others work along with the numbers, thanks again for your help!

-Looking at the schematic you'll find that the "S" connects directly to Pin 7 on plug #2 and it returns to a common ground on Pin 11. So we should see a low impedance continuity from those two pins. you can compare the readings from the other coils.

Changing a solenoid is relatively easy, and frankly, even if you don't end up changing one, the pinbank should be removed and washed to get out all the detritus that accumulated there over the past 60 years.

After removing the plugs underneath (make sure the Brady numbers are still on each lead) remove three Allen bolts and lower a few inches and remove the assembly. Take care not to damage the slipring wipers from the crank.

Here are some pics from the original manual:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=115

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=114

The pin assembly comes off via about four screws and disconnect the wobble plate link. It is pretty self-explanatory, but be careful in removing the rocker plate as the positions of the rollers is important in centering it. They are on off-center bolts. I would only remove one bolt-roller to remove the rocker plate, that way there is less to realign.

When I wash these units I just remove the pin assembly and was the two units intact. Then make sure to blow them dry (I use a strong vacuum as blower for this).

I suggest getting a manual if you don't already have one. These machines need thorough lubrication as there are several points of strain in the operation.

Rob

Rob, thank you for all your help. I plan to take it apart this weekend and will pm you what I find. Your response was terrific and well explained!