Seeburg DS160 - Scan Problem

No idea without comparing both schematics--do the inputs match--do the outputs match ?? How about the mute/squelch functions ?
If you do not know/understand this, it is probably "risky" to try this---Ron Rich

Gary, the Seeburg pickup is magnetic, the R-O is ceramic. To use the Seeburg pickup you'll need a preamp. For test just use a tuner, cd player or "Pod" instead.

The B+ must be switched on. This is usually done via a relay in the power box. These contact can be temporarily jumped -use caution HV here-.

The mute relay probably isn't a problem for test purposes as (IIRC) it only mutes when pulled-in. These phonos has no squelch function for the AGC. They use thermistors which react fairly quickly on attack -but the input level must be adjusted to avoid too much overshoot. A bit half-assed system -but Rock-Ola liked simple-cheap.

A volume control must be attached.

As to speakers, i suggest looking a schematic: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/ ... chematics/

Is it your intention to use this amp in the DS-?

Rob-NYC (In holding pattern due to rain).

Thanks Ron and Rob !
Rob - yes - i was hoping to use the Rock-ola amp in this DS since it was in good working condition and the Seeburg amp would need a rebuild @ $200. + rebuild cost. Its one of my personal machines that i keep in the game room so restoring it back to original with the Seeburg wasn't a big deal to me - and it can always be done at a later date.
Any additional comments or guidance on making this work would be appreciated !
Gary

Ok Gary, if the idea is to use that amp in the DS, here are some things to determine:

1) B+ switching. The H-V for the tubes on a Seeburg is switched by powering the B+ tran in parallel with the mech motor. On R-O (and most others) it is usually done with a relay which closes a set of contacts at the start of a session. So, first determine if the B+ is live with the relay powered of not. If the B+ is live with the relay not powered the way I would deal with this is to connect and 120 VAC outlet to the
Seeburg motor ckt and simply plug the R-o amp into that. You can just plug the R-O power plug into the side of the Seeburg 4-pin Jone plug. I forget whether the top or bottom pair are line voltage...but one will work. In this arrangement the tube heaters will also be off during standby, but aside from a slight warmup at the start of the first record, there should be no problem and you'll won't waste power heating the tubes in standby. This how I run tube amps commercially.

The next consideration is the mute relay. If low voltage is always present in the coil it means that it is switched in the ground return. It looks like the mute Ry is on pins 2&3 on the 10 pin Jones on the amp. If the relay is switched in the ground it is simple to attach it to the Mute plug from the mech.

As for speaker connections, I'd eliminate that dopey fader and connect them to the "Main Stereo" terminals (16 Ohm).

What do you have for a volume control and do you have the input plug?

All this aside, given the amount of work involved and the fact that the R-O amp should be rebuilt (if it hasn't been), if you have a SHFA-x amp w/good transformers, I'd just rebuild that and keep it more original. The SHFA-5 is so simple that a cap kit or ordering parts won't be expensive.

Rob

Thank You Rob !! -> for the detailed explanation on how to attempt this - going to have to think about this one - probably better off selling the Rock-Ola amp and then rebuilding the Seeburg.

Hi Gary,
If it were me, myself and I, we would have a very tiny discussion, in which I think it would be U-nam-min-ous, that it would definitely be best to re-build the Seeburg amp, after all it was designed to work there. The RO amp was designed for the RockOla cabinet. Ron Rich

gmendo wrote:Thank You Rob !! -> for the detailed explanation on how to attempt this - going to have to think about this one - probably better off selling the Rock-Ola amp and then rebuilding the Seeburg.

Gary, yep, that is the way I'd go.

Rob

Agreed - thanks Ron !!