wurlitzer 2810

Hello,
Needing some help. I am trying to replace some resistors on the selector switch assembly particularly per manual #16 resistor 150 ohm 5w and #17 resistor 125ohm 5w. Now here's the problem there is another capacitor was told by a electronic supply house that's what it was because all that could be read after rat chewing was ptm4p1 and below that 1 mfd. And one end of it is soldered to #17 resistor post and the other side of capacitor soldered to a seperate post. I thought it was a resistor but its a little smaller than a triple a battery. But it shows nothing on the manual about a capacitor or resistor so they said they could match it by the 1mfd but does any know why this would be there and by chance the value or voltage it needed to be. So I don't know whether to replace all 3 or just replace the two resistors and remove that capacitor. Please any help would be appreciated. Thanks again

Can you post a photo ? Why are you "messing" with it ? The resistors are probably OK-- Ron Rich

Hello Ron,
The reason I was messing with it is because I thought it was a resistor and they later told me it was a capacitor and Jukebox was in a warehouse and that one was chewed through by a mouse half way through so I figured it needed replacing and that's when I could not find anything about it on the manual. I will take some pictures and post them shortly. Thank you for your time

The 175 ohm is placed in-series with the latch solenoid when credit is on to prevent it from overheating. The 150 ohm is in-series with the select light. They are both under-rated a but rarely open, If you must replace them try to use 10 watt.

I'm not aware of any capacitors in that area, but I haven't had a 2800 series since 1988 so...

Rob/NYC

Hello Rob,
Well that's the problem nothing shows up on the manual or parts list. I told the electronics company about resistors heating up with the selection light staying on and I read I could change them to 10 or 15 Watts but they told me to just replace the bulb with a led bulb to prevent that. Which would create less heat than the #44 bulb but they did not know what the capacitor was doing there but they said they were not experts with the jukebox. So thats where I'm at but here is a couple of pics and maybe someone can tell me what's going on here.thank you for the info

On that cap--can you follow the wires--is it "across" a set of contacts ? If so, it is most likely there for point protection (spark arrest).
Ron Rich

The problem with using an LED there is that the voltage for it is derived through a resistance from a much higher source (approx 28v) so you would likely have to use a much higher resistance. The lighter load from an LED would mean that the voltage at the socket would be closer to the supply. Some LED retrofits have a tiny regulator circuit in their base but it is has a limited correction range.

BTW: They keyboard and probably the rest of the machine would benefit from a washing. Remove the latch solenoid and play counter and clean those separately.

Ron/NYC

Ron,
I followed the wires one is soldered to a empty post, and the other is soldered to the resistor next to it. But other than that I did not know enough with the electrical standpoint to what that would be there for and if it could be removed. Yeah Ron/NYC it is in its early stages of getting all cleaned up I was just going through it to see what had to be replaced, or left alone. I asked the electronic store guys and not radio shack they are not electricians or experts like you guys on the jukebox. But I told him that i heard the two resistors get hot when the selection light is lit and they are the ones that said to change that buld with a led buld they said it burns brighter and cooler. I asked them would it not draw more amps than the bulb because i told them the two resistors that were on there were the 125/150 ohm and 5watts a piece. And i told them some stated that you could go to a 10w or 15w dont know if thats right they said resisitors would burn cooler thats what they had to door to their jukebox. But they said you could leave resistors and use the led and it will not pull more amps than the regular #44 bulb. But for now probably just stick with #44 bulb unless i see a problem. I have electronic contact cleaner but what would you recommend to clean the keyboard and besides removing latch solenoid and play counter any thing else that might need to be removed during cleaning process? Also I have been using a 20w oil for lubrication after clean up would i need to apply any kind of lubricant or leave it dry? Also Ron what is the point protection(spark arrest) sorry not familiar with that.Thanks for all the help on this newbee.

If the cap is soldered to a "blank" terminal--it's not connected to anything, and probably should be removed.
Point protection is just that-it helps keep contact points from "bunring"-- Ron Rich