Phonoland

Hi Rob,

In reference to the H's lack of volume, BRRR noise in the Control Box, inability to reject record, manual reject button not working, etc.

My pal Rachel and I followed your instructions as best we could and :

Checked all fuses which are all of correct values and working.
Cleaned relay contacts in Control Box which were dirty and relay arm faces and coil magnet.
A relay blade in the Control Box fluttered causing the BRRR noise and did NOT make contact so we
did get it to contact but that didn't fix the problem.
Cleaned the blades --carefully--with a strip of business card and DeoxIt Gold and also cleaned the blades of the over-center switches to the right of the turntable.
The pins in the Playmeter Assembly move freely and so do the pins on the Pinwheel Assembly.
Ron Rich recommended a "non-residue safety solvent" to clean the operating surfaces of the turntable and idler wheel but Rachel thinks the one I got is not good so we didn't use it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013I ... ge_o02_s00

Can you recommend a brand name(s) so I don't buy stuff that's not usable?
None of our efforts struck gold. I might have to call Ron. Prediction: he'll fix it in 10-20 minutes.

Thank you very much, Rob.
Best,
Chris

Chris, for a quick cleaning of the inner rim of the T-T I use rubbing alcohol. It can also be used -sparingly- on rubber surfaces, but using often will dry the rubber and harden it.

If all contacts check out OK the next culprit is the low-voltage power supply itself. Both the rectifier and filter cap should be tested under load (with gripper motor running). Measure the lo-DC voltage at standby and then under load. It should not drop by more than 10%. A new silicon rectifier pair and larger filter will raise the voltage and stiffen it considerably.

Rob

If all contacts check out OK the next culprit is the low-voltage power supply itself. Both the rectifier and filter cap should be tested under load (with gripper motor running). Measure the lo-DC voltage at standby and then under load. It should not drop by more than 10%. A new silicon rectifier pair and larger filter will raise the voltage and stiffen it considerably.

Rob[/quote]
Hi Rob,
We tested base voltage & load voltage in the PSU:
Base Voltage (power off) 29.88 between pins 2 & 3 at gripper motor connector.
Load Voltage (power on) 25.69
So it seems to be 1 volt lower than minimum allowable voltage.
Then something interesting happened:
While I was holding the PSU upside down and friend Rachel was preparing to test load voltage, she'd put a quarter into the coin slot, the turntable was turning, my arm drifted and the metal PSU chassis pushed the #5 leaf blade into blade #4 of the Transfer Switch array of blades. The amp gave a mild pop, there was a whirring noise and it suddenly came to life! Put a record on which started playing WITH volume.
So volume worked; power toggle switch, reject button and volume control button worked; manual rotate button and power toggle switch on top of mech worked; gripper arm worked.

We don't know why this happened or if my brush with the leaf blade had anything to do with it. Do you have a theory?
Also, if we should replace the cap Part # F-5051 and the rectifier Part #F-5113 in the PSU, what do we ask for? I know several places to get parts: Tisdale, Victory Glass, Bill Butterfield, Jukebox Revival, maybe Digikey or Mousser's or even Lasher's Electronics in Berkeley Calif. if we knew what to ask for. "AMi Part#F-xxxx" won't get it! Someone long ago wrapped the cap in cloth friction tape, getting it off might destroy whatever's printed on it.
Progress but how and why? I haven't played it yet today, hope it still works.
Thanks! Elf sez Merry Christmas!
Chris
Chris