Phonoland

Guys,

I really appreciate your input. I check the 5 amp fuse and that's ok, I am assuming the "frog" is the plunger block and they have silver on them and appear to be in contact. Can you give me a better idea of what the detent switch is? Also I am not familiar with your acronyms, TMU and TPA-1. I'll be honest, I am a civil engineer and used to building bridges, sewers and roads not fixing jukeboxes! My brother is the electrical engineer in a southern state and he got me the capacitor and resistor. I am not Lionel (electrical engineer) from the old "All In The Family" show. Thanks again, I inherited the jukebox from my father.
I will go through your suggestions when I get home tonight.

Rascal1

Rascal, the detent switch is just behind the motor. It has two wires going to it and a small "hammer" that pushes the contacts closed as the mach scans.

Again, do you have a schematic for this circuit? A simplified one makes things very easy to shoot. If not, I'll scan my ratty old ones in and post them when I get back this evening.

Rob

Rob,

I don't have one unfortunately.

Rascal, here are three simplified schematics for that era Tormat machines:

Read out:

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g7 ... fc6682bdab


Write-in:

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g0 ... e4009efa51


Trip ckt:

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g4 ... c11bbf572a

For some inexplicable reason FileConvoy shows these as .rar -They are not. Just rename them to .jpg before or after d-l.

FWIW: I made these at the old Albert Simon (Seeburg dist) in 1978 and they are several generations from the originals. These are all I've ever needed to restore and maintain commercial operation of the tube based Tormat machines.

Rob

Thanks Rob for the schematics. I will try working on it this week.

Rascal

Ron Rich & Rob,
I just wanted to get back to you guys that gave me some good advice. I was able to find a local older person that has been repairing jukeboxes for years. I explained what I had done previously and he tested the RO circuit for continuity with his ohm meter and determined that they had to be adjusted. After the adjustment he tested it again and it worked. Lubricated the unit, put it back together and it operated like it used to. He said it was good I replaced the capacitor and resistor because that is a common problem also, your recommendation to replace.

I don't know the guy's last name but his first name was Tom and he said he knew or knew of Ron Rich from the west coast, must be a unique group. I just want to say thanks or our help and advice trying to my my Seeburg working again which it does now. Thanks again for the tips.

Rascal