Phonoland

Another question for ya'll..

In 60's and 70's Rowe jukes (MM1 - MM6, TIs, etc), there are a lot of square connectors, that look much like Molex style connectors. (On a few models, there were round 7-pin connectors used as well.)

Anyone know what make/model/part numbers these connectors are? I'd like to repin a few on my juke, and .. well, is it possible?

Rowe never used Molex brand connectors, to the best of my knowledge. They used A-MP brand, which is now called TEC. All are available from most electronic supply houses (Digikey--Mouser). (How about the round header posts that go into the square pin housings --nice planning, ain't it ! I change a lota them --) Ron Rich

HI Foxtrotray, Just wondering why you want to replace some of the plugs and sockets, seems a lot of fiddly work. especially if there not shot. If it works don't fix it.

Ron Rich wrote:Rowe never used Molex brand connectors, to the best of my knowledge. They used A-MP brand, which is now called TEC. All are available from most electronic supply houses (Digikey--Mouser). (How about the round header posts that go into the square pin housings --nice planning, ain't it ! I change a lota them --) Ron Rich

Yup! Note I said they LOOK like Molex, not ARE Molex. I know that the edge-connectors are AMPs (on the search unit, credit unit, etc), just wasn't sure about the square in-line ones. If these are AMPs as well (likely they are..!), I *believe* I found a match -

This is the socket, and would be the part mounted in the panel (on the cabinet for the stepper, coin switch plugs, or on the mech or power supply where the harnesses plug in.)

I'll order a set tomorrow, and test them. The trick with these is that they're not compatible with the newer 'standard' style, with the keying shape in the center of one side - the ones Rowe used had notched in the corner to prevent incorrect plugging (which didn't work too well, as you could still slide the other end on and potentially cause an issue..!)

djricksha wrote:HI Foxtrotray, Just wondering why you want to replace some of the plugs and sockets, seems a lot of fiddly work. especially if there not shot. If it works don't fix it.

Well, two reasons, actually! - And no, I don't plan on re-doing everything..!

-- I need to make me an alternate coin switch assembly cable, and I don't want to hack my existing one up. (I could get a used one off of ebay, which is my backup plan!)
-- The mech in mine is missing one up on the scan stop switch, and would like to install it back in. However, it works fine without it, so this is just an OCD / Looks issue, not an operational one.

I too believe in the "if it ain't broke--why fixxit ?" theory --- BUT---
The "flat" A-MP brand connector pins Rowe (and others) used are noted for "loosing tension". I wish I had one cent, for every one I removed from the housing and "re-formed". I also look at each pin while out, and if not still "shinny", I replace it. ( Yep--at that point, IMHO, it IS broke ). I look at the "header pins" (posts) too. Often, on older equipment, they are the "round type", I change them to the "square type", to get a larger surface area of contact. Any pin/post, round or square, if discolored, needs to be changed, and very often the solder joint, on the bottom of the PCB, needs to be re-done. Ron Rich

Yep--thems A-MP--and they do not "look like Molex" to me ?
Dead give-away----Molex brand ain't got no squeeze tabs--
Also, I have never seen either brand installed wrong--the "keys" are different on the two brands, but it would seem to me that one would have to "push awful hard", to force one in "backwards" ?

Ron Rich wrote:I too believe in the "if it ain't broke--why fixxit ?" theory --- BUT---
The "flat" A-MP brand connector pins Rowe (and others) used are noted for "loosing tension". I wish I had one cent, for every one I removed from the housing and "re-formed". I also look at each pin while out, and if not still "shinny", I replace it. ( Yep--at that point, IMHO, it IS broke ). I look at the "header pins" (posts) too. Often, on older equipment, they are the "round type", I change them to the "square type", to get a larger surface area of contact. Any pin/post, round or square, if discolored, needs to be changed, and very often the solder joint, on the bottom of the PCB, needs to be re-done. Ron Rich

Well, like I mentioned, I do need to modify my coin switch harness (because I have a different coin mech! ) so that's why I was looking at the plugs. (Also, it's good info to have, for the future in case one of those ever gets its wires yanked out or broke off.. argh.)

The header pins and plugs.. yeah, I'll replace those often - espically on pinballs that draw high current. Oy, I really dislike IDC connectors.

Ron Rich wrote:Yep--thems A-MP--and they do not "look like Molex" to me ?
Dead give-away----Molex brand ain't got no squeeze tabs--
Also, I have never seen either brand installed wrong--the "keys" are different on the two brands, but it would seem to me that one would have to "push awful hard", to force one in "backwards" ?

Hey, they look close enough to me!

And yeah - that one I have pictured above - notice it's keying feature is only on one thin side - flip it 180-degrees, and they'll stop that edge from plugging in, BUT - the other end will slide down, and potentially make pins contact each other that shouldn't be. (Essentially, sliding the plug on at an angle.)

Now, you're probably much better at things in general than I am, but more than a few times, I've gone to plug one in, and slipped one end on while the other was out, and said 'D'oh!' and had to unlatch the caught side and plug it in the right way.

I guess, after having used the earlier AMPLOCK style ( square pins--exactly the same ones used on both the male-female), which can be inserted at 180 degrees without much of a problem, I learned too "look first" ?? Ron Rich

Rowe used the AMP "Commercial" Mate N Lock series of connectors. Do not confuse with the "Universal" Mate N Lock series.

Ken,
What's the difference ? --or--how do you I D them ? Ron Rich

HI, Foxtrotray, to improve the look of your scan switch assembly, when you lift the lid. you need to buy some meat or chicken. cut the corner from the black plastic dish in comes in. And make a cover for the scan switch assembly. add some stick on chrome edging and bob's your uncle. (sorry only joking,) but I did actually do that on a Tropicana that I made into a visible mech juke.

djricksha wrote:And make a cover for the scan switch assembly. add some stick on chrome edging and bob's your uncle

Hah! I DO need to clean the pricing switches on the console.

Speaking of those connectors -
Just earleir today I was trying to disconnect the Money Meter to mount it in it's final position, and one of the plug's tabs wouldn't let go. It was somehow caught in there REALLY well - I had to cut the tab off, as no matter what I did, it would not release. Old plastic? Anyways, it still works, so I'm not worried about it, but I've had issues like this in the past, requiring a lot of finesse to get them disconnected.

Ray, in cases where the tabs won't release due to swelling of the plastic, I use a needle nose pliers to force it out. Then I'll use a small edge cutter to split the keeper ring on the other plug. This allow some retaining action but will 'give" when force is used. Losing the tabs is NBD though. there is usually plenty of friction to hold it.

Rob

Guys,
I have never encountered one I could not "persuade", to come loose, with my home-made "persuader tool" (a jewelers screwdriver, forced down thru the "loop"---) Ron Rich