Seeburg 100r Recap question/s

Ron,
The "thing" that the manual assumes, can cause problems--the manual having been written when the reversing switch was new, assumes that the "stops", on the switch itself, are correct. This is not always the case today, as Rob's "Geppeto friends", tend to get in there, and "work on", that switch--
The 4 "stops"--"upside-down V's", MUST be even, and "adjusted" (OK--BENT !) so that they prevent all "over-travel" of the switch.
Also--the "rubber bumpers" must be present--and on later models, correctly adjusted ! Correct adjustment of the reversing switch stops, mounted on the base, ( the ones that are used to flip the switch) is also critical. Ron Rich

I guess I will just leave mine Mono, I'd like to use the original MRA5 amp and I'm going to cap that once I've verified the receiver and new run motor for the selector mechanism are working. But the amp that' in there now, and for the past 20 years, is a Panasonic CA215 a 90W A/B switching 2 channel amp with a phono input and a mono push button option on the front panel. Hopefully that can be discarded when the MRA5 is recapped, I also noticed it has a blown 2A fuse so hopefully everything else is OK. I have a few extra RCA tubes to swap around too.

Ron, if I clip out the .01 cap, where is this reserving switch located and what is the suggested gap? All my switches appear to be straight and seem to operate between their normally open or closed positions as they should.

The reversing switch is located on the front of the mech at the bottom. It is a series of 4 switches with the switch lever or "paddle" that trips the mech to move from end to end. The gap and pressure adjustments are located in the Service & Parts manual on page 2170.

Thank you, after taking a look I figured out the reverse switch Ron referred to. I don't have any rubber bumpers on the "end of stroke" metal tabs that the bakelite piece bumps into. I gave them a good cleaning with contact cleaner and some pieces of paper.

I was able to test my Juke it appears to be working after recapping the receiver and swapping out the run motor in the mech. It used to take 10-15 minutes to spin up to 45RPM and now it comes up immediately at full speed. However it's doing some strange stuff like not knowing when a record ends and randomly attempting to pick up records that were not selected. In fact it never stops hunting around for records, it will go on forever until I make a selection. And If I let the machine sit and cool for awhile the selection buttons will hold in place, but after being on I have to press them both simultaneously to make a selection. I'm not sure what that means... Here is a 1 minute video of it hunting around for records and stopping at the selection: http://youtu.be/QadlLni07rY

Boxer,
Do you have a service manual--if so, READ it, if not PURCHASE it, then READ it, prior to doing anything else---
You have no "searching problem" !
Hint--see page 2291/2, item 24--
Your "keyboard problems" are most likely caused by lack of lubrication in the CCU--rotary switch is slow to return--use one drop of "Seeburg oil" on each end--work this in "by hand"--plunger MUST snap back. If this does not work, you will need to dis-assemble and clean-re-lube it.
Ron Rich

I DO need to order one. I took a look at Victoryglass, and maybe I missed it, but I'm not sure which service manual includes the 100R. This quickly went from a simply recap project to addressing multiple mechanical issues.

On the plus side I was able to resolve the issue of the machine not rejecting the record at the end of play. The ground microswitch wire was broken at it's solder joint and slightly hidden from view.

I noticed it always tries to pick up the same record, so you're right it's not searching. The pins must be stuck engaged or not being returned?

Well being new to jukeboxes myself (been restoring vintage 1960's pinball machines for 20 years) and having the same hf100r unit as you, buy the following from Victory Glass.

These are the Service/Parts Manual and the Troubleshooting Guide bundle
60-1107 SPECIAL OFFER: purchase both R-267 and R426 for Seeburg HF100R/J/JL100 Models

I spent the first few weeks going page by page checking every single adjustment, from the clutch to every switch contact cleaning and spacing. Without those manuals there is no way I would have been able to get my machine to work properly. Along with Ron's help tracing down why I had an issue picking up a record and rejecting it... plug for the Service Switch was bad.

My first suggestion after you do the CAPS for the receiver & AMP, is rebuild & clean the Pinbank. This will take a great deal of patience and time. Took me about 6 hours to strip it down, clean it and then reassemble. Very time consuming but well worth the work, should not have to clean it again for 20-30 years . Plus this way to I was able to check the alignment of the contacts and make sure all the wires were secure. Just make sure you have a large are to work and work slow, alot of pins, springs and washers... ALOT!!!

Thanks for the info Ron, I'm also into pinballs both EM and solid state. My only 60's game is a Bowling Queen, but I've had various 70s Gottliebs and Ballys as well. The knowledge base has been helpful working on this Jukebox.

Do you happen to know which fuse in the receiver protects the pinbank? I noticed someone had put a 5A fuse in the 3A section. I'm thinking it could have fried a couple of the solenoids keeping mine from resetting.

The SA Unit (aka "pinbank") is protected by the ONE amp SB fuse(F-4)--however, this does not have anything to do with the pin cancel circuit. Ron Rich

According to my notes F4 arrived here with an incorrect 2A Slo blow. But you're saying that wouldn't affect the reset coils... I pulled the SA unit and manually reset the pins and that just made the unit run endlessly. I picked a few songs and now they are stuck in the queue, so it's not resetting them. Sometimes if I flip the service switch it won't even try to pick those records, and if I flip the switch a few times it goes back to trying to get them. Ugh...

catboxer wrote:According to my notes F4 arrived here with an incorrect 2A Slo blow. But you're saying that wouldn't affect the reset coils... I pulled the SA unit and manually reset the pins and that just made the unit run endlessly. I picked a few songs and now they are stuck in the queue, so it's not resetting them. Sometimes if I flip the service switch it won't even try to pick those records, and if I flip the switch a few times it goes back to trying to get them. Ugh...

You have two separate issues here. The service may have poor internal contacts, but understand, in the "scan" position the idea is for the mech to bypass selected pins so that the routeman can change records and not have to wait till all songs have played. Once in the normal position the mech will now stop to play again.

If the switch is sometimes not returning the mech to scanning it's internal connections or over-center mechanism my be gummy. I -personally- treat this by dribbling a little WD-40 (heavens) into the switch and working it.

On cancelling the pins; just as the stylus is setting down on a record, you should hear a snap of the pop meter and the reset coil for the side you are playing (A vs B). If not, the first place to look are the contacts in the vertical stack on the mech. Toward the upper end of the stack are two long blades and one short in between them -these are the pop meter-pin cancel contacts. Pitting and occurs here and causes erratic operation.

Rob

Rob,
I would never have thought about WD-40'ing that service switch--how do you get it to penetrate ? Does that "last" along time ? "Snapping them" about 100 times will make them work, for awhile, anyway, so normally,I just replace them--expensive switch !! Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Rob,
I would never have thought about WD-40'ing that service switch--how do you get it to penetrate ? Does that "last" along time ? "Snapping them" about 100 times will make them work, for awhile, anyway, so normally,I just replace them--expensive switch !! Ron Rich

Ron, the way I've always doen it is to have the switch with the handle upwards and just dribble the WD-40 in. In 1993 I needed to replace the broken plastic Seeburg RVC in one location. I had a Wurlitzer metal one but the switch was a frozen snap cam inside. I used the -40 and it worked right away and is still on location. About three years ago I noticed that the volume changes often took a longer time and on examination, i found that the contacts in that old switch had developed resistance. Another shot of (Donnie K's Fix It All -as I call it) (PM me if the name doesn't ring a bell) and the switch was again Ok.

I've also used it on the AM-FM slider on my KLH bedside radio. Used sparingly, it is OK for this sort of ting.

Rob

Hi Rob,
I don't happen to have a can of Donnie's (Yep--I knows who you speak of) fix all, but I wonder about a fire, with that stuff, inside a switch housing ?? Also, often when I have run into a "frozen" switch, I find that I can take a substantial piece of wood, and "hit" the bat handle several times to free it up-, or bust it off-- Ron Rich

Rob your WD-40 trick seems to have worked, thank you! I did as you suggested and worked it in and let it dry. Now it's always picking up (or attempting to) records in Play mode. I was able to get a service manual to check the switches on the front of the mech. Referencing page 2172 of the manual it would appear my reset "SC" and "C" switches are OK. I wish I could see a problem as this seems like the likely culprit behind the non-resetting selections. I took a picture of them in both Play and Scan position if anyone can double check it I would appreciate it! I cleaned the contacts with some contact cleaner and stiff paper, but I'm going to find my burnishing tool and redo the SC contact.

Play position:


Scan Position: