Wurlitzer 2310S Playrak blows 0.8 A fuse

You can read about the background of my jukebox here:
http://www.phonoland.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7975

There are a 4-5 issues that must be solved before the jukebox will work.
This is what I assume should be the first to dig in to.

I will try to describe the issue her:
I have a "simple" Coin Counter Mech, it's just four on/off switches sensing a coin passing thru.
One of the switches works fine for Swedish 1 SEK coins, this is the only switch I will use.
I don't think this Counter was originaly deliverd with jukebox, it was in it when I got the box.


If I just manually touch the Counter Coin leafswitch a "millisecond", the 0.8A fuse is blowing.
The manual states that the fuse should not blow until after 3 seconds, so either the coil have to low resistance, or the voltage is to high, or........I might have made some misstake during the renovation.
If I manually set the accumulator wheel to let say 4 selections, everything seems works, I can push the selector buttons four times and four different latch pins are released on the Electronic Selector (carousel motor doesn't start but this is the next issue, and I will come to that later).
I'm suspecting that the accumulator coils are toasted, as the windings are partly black (see photo below)
The resistance over the coils windings are 3 & 5 ohm, can anyone confirm the resistance?
The DC voltage measured over the leaf switch is 55-60V, can anyone confirm the voltage?

I have a bad copy of the service manual, impossible to trace the schematics as the pin numbering is not legible.
Can someone please send me a legible jpg file over the side 71-72 from the 2300/2310 service manual?

Thank you for your help!
/Gunnar

Hi Gunnar,
Yes--coils ARE toast ! If I recall correctly, those coils should be fed 25 vac ??
Service Manuals are available in good hard copies at a number of locations--which are posted above as "Used/new Parts/books--where to find them"-- Ron Rich

Thanks for the replay Ron!

So it is 25 VAC over the coils!
This was a suprise, I thought the Playrak was only driven by VDC !
Will check this tomorrow, have to set my multimeter to AC
This might explain the redings.

I also must fix at least one new coil.

Regards
Gunnar

Gunnar, as disgustingly often the case, Ron is correct The credit coils are Low-AC approx 28V. This is generally done in all older coin equipment because it reduces the pitting of the contact points in cases where they trigger coils directly. The idea is that many of the switch "makes" will occur at, or near, the zero-interval of the AC wave -not at the peak as would always be the case with DC.

If you want a basic look at the low voltage distribution on a Wurlitzer of that era, here is a scan:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=65

......And another:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=44

Rob-NYC

Rob,
I am sooooo sorrry to have "disgusted" you !--
*=)) rolling on the floor
Ron Rich





.

I did some measuring yesterday and it was 26VAC just as Ron says!

So a couple of new coils should fix this issue!
Anyone sitting on a good pair of coils?
Or maby I can wind the coils myself?
Doesnt look impossible!

Yep--you can re-wind them yourself--or--check with the suppliers listed in the above posts--
Ron Rich

For getting some progress here (as I see it) a temporary solution could be to move the spring to the other side of the black cancel wheel.
When reading other posts I can see that his is a common way to always get free play.

If I changing the spring direction, will the "select bulb" #44 light all the time then?
I ask this as the 150 ohms resistor in series with the "select bulb" is extremly HOT. I noticed this when I was tracing the Playrak for a couple of days ago. The resistor is so hot that smoke comes from it!
The resistor is still right on spot (153 ohms) and the voltage is -33 VDC.

Is it possible to remove the resistor and replace the #44 bulb with a standard BA9s 2W 36V lamp?
https://www.elfa.se/sv/signalgloedlampa-ba9s-30-36-vac-dc-66-ma-taunuslicht-9029-00-3036-02/p/13344984?q=BA9s+36V&filter_Sp%C3%A4nning=30...36+VAC%2FDC&page=1&origPos=4&origPageSize=50&simi=89.12

Yes, Changing the spring pulling direction--and adding credits,once, will case the select lamp to remain on. The resistor seems to be OK at this, but if you are worried, change it to a 10 watt unit, and it will run cooler--the Latch Bar resistor, also will run very hot, and can be changed to a 10 watt unit, if you desire. Ron Rich

Good News!
Playrak works and each coin actuates the coil without blowing the fuse!
I removed the coil that was 3 ohms and rerouted the leaders to the 5 ohms coil.
Before doing that I winded off the copperleader from the 3 ohms coil to messure the diam and length of it.
Length was 12 m and diam was 0,2mm; which gives the resistance 5-6 ohms over the winding.
That means that the 5 ohms coil still is ok, if you can follow my thinking??

Short video here:
http://s236.photobucket.com/user/gbak/media/Wurlitzer%202310S/Coin%20register/E2DA67F9-F0B9-479C-AA78-DC6D6C09A08E_zps81lonyak.mp4.html

Hello Gunnar,

With regards to coils and transformers always count the number of turns on the coil and the SWG (standard wire gauge) when rewinding, in order to get the swg you have to burn off the enamel that covers the wire.

In a earlier life in my electrical engineering days I wound anything from tiny coils to 3 phase 7KVA transformers.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

I changed the two hot resistors on the selector plate from 5 to 15W.
The main plate also acts as a coolingfin, still the select lamp resistors temperature is hot!
Is this high temperature ok or should I fix even better cooling?

Yes--they will run "hot"--do you have the correct lamp in that socket ?? Ron Rich

I think it is markt "No 44"
Maby it's ok I just dont know the temperature limit of the resistor.

If the parts list calls for that number, it is OK--Ron Rich